cam for 2f

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Dec 22, 2004
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Bend Oregon
Who makes the best performance cam for the 2f? Any thoughts?
Thanks
Jonathan
 
What makes the man-a-fre cam better than, say, downey's, or specter's cam?
Thanks
Jonathan
 
svo_jon said:
What makes the man-a-fre cam better than, say, downey's, or specter's cam?
Thanks
Jonathan

don't know what the diff is but i know i like the MAN A FRE cam. don't forget new or refurbished lifters, M-A-F sells them also.
can't go wrong with the RV cam :D
 
Most of the cam makers recommend crowning the lifters and stronger springs...
 
I have a hard time swallowing $310 for just a cam...If it included lifters that would be something.
Thanks
Jonathan
 
As it turns out (after tering down the engine) I think the cam is a Toyota, it seems to have a Toyota part number stamped into the back. Just one more lie from the po. That said, Downey lists thier torquer cam for ~$200, again without lifters. As far as the springs go they have vibration dampners so mabe aftermarket? Who knows, this engine is full of "suprises" that the po forgot to mention like the #6 rod bering spun which I assume prompted the "rebuild". The only thing that was done right is the berings look good. EEEERRRRRRRR!!!
 
svo_jon said:
As it turns out (after tering down the engine) I think the cam is a Toyota, it seems to have a Toyota part number stamped into the back. Just one more lie from the po. That said, Downey lists thier torquer cam for ~$200, again without lifters. As far as the springs go they have vibration dampners so mabe aftermarket? Who knows, this engine is full of "suprises" that the po forgot to mention like the #6 rod bering spun which I assume prompted the "rebuild". The only thing that was done right is the berings look good. EEEERRRRRRRR!!!


You say the brgs. look good... but #6 is spun? is this now or the when the po had it?
 
FJ40Jim said:
Yes, a cam change will have an effect on emissions.


No disagreement.

But what matters most is; can you still pass emissions testing. Technically, probably not in many/most jurusdiction, simply bcause the cam is not the same as factory. But it you don't make a point of telling the trsters, you can make a cammed 2F burn just as clean as a stock engine. I have done this a few times and routinely pass the tsts with less than 10% of allowable limits on HCs and CO. In a couple cases, down between 1% and 3% . With no detectable detrimental performance effects from the tuning to run this clean.

This is with no load testing however. On a dyno tester and if they are looking at nitrous oxides, the results might be different. But I'm pretty confident that you could still pass the test even then.


Mark...
 
"Torque" cam and "RV" cam and "3/4" cam are terms that are as meaningless as "best". Look at real numbers (duration, lift and overlap), not at silly marketing labels.

A camshaft with a duration at .050 of about 210 to 217 and a lift in the area of .240-245 wil produce a notable improvement in mid range and high rpm power. At the sacrifice of a small amount of peak bottom end power (below 1000 rpm).


Mark...
 
I guess I should have been a little more specific with my question, I thought it would be obvious that a "best" cam for a 2f would be one that improved on the 2f's strong points (low to mid rpm power), consitering that the engine red lines at 4000 rpms it is not like high rpm performance is that critical. It is a relitively small, glorified tracter motor trying to lug around a heavy 4X4 that is loaded with all the junk that a cruiser head thinks he needs with him all the time. so, it would seem to me that "best" is obvious.

That said I should have been more clear.

Thanks to those of you who had something useful to say.

Jonathan
 
Actually 4.2 liters is pretty big for a six cylinder. And it'll take 5000 as a redline. Most guys don't turn their V8s any more than that.

That said, you've got my advice above. You can buy a cam with a bit less lift and duration (250 at .050). But from my expereince, you won't see any notable real world improvement ofer the stock cam in the mid range/top end areas and will suffer just as much loss of bottom end torque as the longer cam (not enough loss to worry about in either case IMHO).

There is no significant difference in the profiles or performance between the cams offered by the different vendors. Look at the specs to pick your cam, not the seller.

You do not need any springs beyond stock if you are going to keep the engine below 5000.

You have to use new (or resurfaced) lifters with a new or reground cam.



If you don't feel that the input is useful, ignore it.


Mark...
 

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