Man A Fre Safari 4" Suspension

[fireflyr]

I just installed a MAF 4" Safari Suspension Kit with Old Man Emu gas shocks on my '67 FJ40. The steering arm rubs the inside of the shock when the wheels are pointed straight. Is this common with these shocks on the stock steering? Any suggestions (I'm not switching to power steering just yet) on how to get rid of the rub?
I'm an average mechanic but was a bit pissed when the kit came with no instructions and the wrong brake lines. I don't think MAF will get any more of my hard earned $$$.

 

[calstyl2]

I just installed a MAF 4" Safari Suspension Kit with Old Man Emu gas shocks on my '67 FJ40. The steering arm rubs the inside of the shock when the wheels are pointed straight. Is this common with these shocks on the stock steering? Any suggestions (I'm not switching to power steering just yet) on how to get rid of the rub?
I'm an average mechanic but was a bit pissed when the kit came with no instructions and the wrong brake lines. I don't think MAF will get any more of my hard earned $$$.

Everything I have ever bought from MAF does not have instructions, my SOR lift did hit the steering arm too, bent the shock with hard flex too..

Powersteering solved that

 

[lucky 13]

i know exactly how yall feel, its very aggravating.

there is no such thing as a bolt on kit.. there is always something to cause a slowdown, well in my personal experience.

 

[Downey]

I don't offer OME, but sure sounds to me like their front shocks are on the fatter side of life? Full bodied shocks hold more oil, which is a plus, but not a plus at the expense of interference. We just sell so dang much Saginaw that we don't encounter your complaint very often.

 

[calstyl2]

I don't offer OME, but sure sounds to me like their front shocks are on the fatter side of life? Full bodied shocks hold more oil, which is a plus, but not a plus at the expense of interference. We just sell so dang much Saginaw that we don't encounter your complaint very often.

They are alot fatter than common US shocks, plus they have the metal shaft guard.

 

[lcwizard]

You could try KYB. they are a narrow bodied shock. Unfortunately when the Land cruiser was designed
only wimpy little shocks were available.......and a 31" tire was huge.
There is not really much out there in a narrow shock that's decent. The mono-tube high pressure gas shocks such as KYB and Bilstein are about it

 

[bogus one]

Hey, you're right in my backyard.

We just put the same kit on my son's '65. Haven't gotten to the steering yet. Let's get together and compare notes.

 

[Sea Knight]

They are alot fatter than common US shocks, plus they have the metal shaft guard.

I'm running Skyjacker Hydro shocks on the 40, and before that Rancho. FWIW both brands have about 0.25" clearance between the shock body and steering arm. Never any rubbing but it's almost too close for comfort. Thinking about switching to Bilsteins when the budget permits. Right after the rust repairs

 

[fireflyr]

I had thought about cutting the metal guard off the top of the shock with a rotary cutter, but damn they're brand new. Also thought of making a standoff with a U-bolt.
Got some time to think about it 'cause I'm still waiting on brakelines and paint.

Pat

I don't offer OME, but sure sounds to me like their front shocks are on the fatter side of life? Full bodied shocks hold more oil, which is a plus, but not a plus at the expense of interference. We just sell so dang much Saginaw that we don't encounter your complaint very often.

 

[FJ40zen]

I just installed a MAF 4" Safari Suspension Kit with Old Man Emu gas shocks on my '67 FJ40. The steering arm rubs the inside of the shock when the wheels are pointed straight. Is this common with these shocks on the stock steering? Any suggestions (I'm not switching to power steering just yet) on how to get rid of the rub?
I'm an average mechanic but was a bit pissed when the kit came with no instructions and the wrong brake lines. I don't think MAF will get any more of my hard earned $$$.

May need to spec out your frame, the SR mounts or check the spring postions. My HFS kit was like that until i checked everything and found that the springs were not quite in the correct position. Mine was rubbing, but is at least an inch away now.

 

[fireflyr]

May need to spec out your frame, the SR mounts or check the spring postions. My HFS kit was like that until i checked everything and found that the springs were not quite in the correct position. Mine was rubbing, but is at least an inch away now.

You got my attention, but I'm not sure what I need to do. Could explain a little more. Thanks.

 

[fireflyr]

Hey, you're right in my backyard.

We just put the same kit on my son's '65. Haven't gotten to the steering yet. Let's get together and compare notes.

Hope you guys had more luck than me. I had always suspected I was an idiot, but this really confirmed it. First off, I installed a front and rear spring in the rear, then installed the other rear spring backwards. I think the 105+ temp had something to do with it but I sure was glad the wife wasn't home. Probably one of my more un-smooth moments. Wish I had a video of me jumping up and down in the bed of the Landcruiser trying to get them to even out. Everything went better after I backed away from it, had an ice cold then went back to work. Just 'cause something looks the same height sitting on the floor doesn't mean it is. A tape measure is an amazing tool. Ought to use it more often.

 

[calstyl2]

Hope you guys had more luck than me. I had always suspected I was an idiot, but this really confirmed it. First off, I installed a front and rear spring in the rear, then installed the other rear spring backwards. I think the 105+ temp had something to do with it but I sure was glad the wife wasn't home. Probably one of my more un-smooth moments. Wish I had a video of me jumping up and down in the bed of the Landcruiser trying to get them to even out. Everything went better after I backed away from it, had an ice cold then went back to work. Just 'cause something looks the same height sitting on the floor doesn't mean it is. A tape measure is an amazing tool. Ought to use it more often.

wait till you put a clutch disk in backwards, then a transmission, transfer case, transmission tunnel, fuel tank, drive shafts, roll cage and seats back in.
When you have reached that level, give me a call............

 

[FJ40zen]

First off, I would take a look at the position of your springs in relationship with the frame channels from the front. Look at each side to see if the springs are favoring a little to the left. This is much easier when you can see most of the frame up to the firewall, so you may want to remove the bib and fenders. If they look like they are favoring the left, loosen them up and hang the axle and springs in the air from the frame (I put my jack stands under the front crossmember to do this) and then push the axle over to make it centered. Torque the u-bolts evenly and it should get you the shock/Steering rod clearance.

If this does not work, you may need a body shop to check the frame for correct specifications. I would not suspect this if you don't think it is bent. Post up some pics for us to see if you can.

 

[fireflyr]

First off, I would take a look at the position of your springs in relationship with the frame channels from the front. Look at each side to see if the springs are favoring a little to the left. This is much easier when you can see most of the frame up to the firewall, so you may want to remove the bib and fenders. If they look like they are favoring the left, loosen them up and hang the axle and springs in the air from the frame (I put my jack stands under the front crossmember to do this) and then push the axle over to make it centered. Torque the u-bolts evenly and it should get you the shock/Steering rod clearance.

If this does not work, you may need a body shop to check the frame for correct specifications. I would not suspect this if you don't think it is bent. Post up some pics for us to see if you can.

I'll roll it outside and check. The only thing forward of the firewall is the engine so it should be easy to check. The shock diameter is huge compared to the KYBs I took off. I'll post some pics. Thanks for the advice.

Pat

 

[fireflyr]

Well, I think I figured it out. I rolled it outside and the frame looked straight and the install looks ok. I looked at the steering box and it looked like it had some lateral adjustment so I loosened the 2 bolts that hold it to the mount and was able to slide it towards the engine. I now have 1/4" clearance between the steering rod and the shock.