CV Re-boot lessons learned

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LSUfj

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I found the nasty grease spray resulting from a torn boot over the weekend. There were no mechanical issues, so i decided to just replace the boots. The kit from toyota cost $40 and included two boots, 4 clamps, and two tubes of grease. Here are a couple notes from the job.

- there has been discussion here of which clamps to use. The kit from the toyota dealer included two kinds. The outer boot uses the kind that you crimp, while the inner boot uses the kind you find on the original boots. I had the tool to install the crimp style clamp, but did not have the tool to install the "OEM" style. I went to 6 auto parts stores to find either another set of crimp on clamps or the tool to install the OEM style. Well, I finally found the tool, but when I got home I realized that the part that you fold over and trim was already trimmed on the clamps from toyota. So....after about 4 hours of searching for the tool/clamps, I figured out that the OEM replacement clamps can be installed just by folding them over and pushing the tabs down to keep it in place. Lesson learned - OEM boot kit requires only a CV clamp crimping tool, and basic hand tools to install.

-there are two tubes of grease included. The larger tube is for the outboard boot. Same grease in both tubes.

-Rent a pitman arm puller to free the spindle from the ball joints and tie-rod end. Very easy.

-I removed the hub assembly just as you would for a brake job/bearing repack. I dont think this is necessary. You can just remove the outer snap ring that holds the CV shaft to the hub. Once you pull the spindle off of both ball joints and the tie-rod end, I think it will slide out the back side. Not sure on this, but it might save a little time.

-I also didnt remove the inner tulip from the differential. There is a large snap ring that retains the ball/cage inside of the tulip. Once you take this out with a flat head screw driver, the ball/cage will slide out. The balls will fall out at this point too, so keep track of them.

-The outer boot can be reassembled on the work bench. The inner boot should only be partially installed. I clamped the small end of the boot and installed the ball/cage with a bit of grease. It helps to put a lot of grease in the cage because gravity will work against you.

-Installing the assembly can be a bit tricky. It may have been easier to pull the inner tulip, but I didnt and it was still pretty simple. You just have to slide the ball/cage into the tulip being sure that everything stays together. Once it is in, I slid it all the way in just to get the grease to spread around. Then, install the large snap ring and give it a tug to be sure it stays.

-Install the last boot clamp and reassemble everything. I would guess that this could all be done in around 2 hours. Heres a list of the tools I got out for the job, i think I used them all...?:

  • 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm ratchets
  • torque wrench
  • fish scale to check wheel bearing preload (might not be needed if you dont remove hub from spindle)
  • pitman arm puller and correct wrench
  • a few flat head screw drivers
  • clamp crimping tool
  • lots of towels, latex glove are great too
  • jack, jack stands
I'm sure I forgot something, but I hope this helps.

Bret
 
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-I removed the hub assembly just as you would for a brake job/bearing repack. I dont think this is necessary. You can just remove the outer snap ring that holds the CV shaft to the hub. Once you pull the spindle off of both ball joints and the tie-rod end, I think it will slide out the back side. Not sure on this, but it might save a little time.

Yeah, you don't have to take apart the hub assembly. Just remove the snap ring on the end of the CV, upper/low ball joints, brakes, steering knuckle bolts and then the CV will slide right out.
I'll be rebuilding a CV axle that I replaced soon, so thanks for the rest of this helpful info!
 
Yeah, you don't have to take apart the hub assembly. Just remove the snap ring on the end of the CV, upper/low ball joints, brakes, steering knuckle bolts and then the CV will slide right out.
I'll be rebuilding a CV axle that I replaced soon, so thanks for the rest of this helpful info!

Obvious but noteworthy just the same: To avoid having to drain the front diff have the axle tube you are working on higher than the level of diff oil when you R&R the CV axle assembly.
 
torn boot found today

I just found a torn boot today and am steering toward the rebuild with the OEM kit.

I have read that some say the rebuild is pretty difficult. Do I really need the FSM? What does it entail? I see that there are balls in there that are loose. Is that the difficult part?

Any help would be great. If someone could email me the FSM pages, if really needed, that would be great.

Thanks
 
All depends on your mechanical abilities. I wouldn't do it without the FSM. Easiest way to do it is to pull the entire hub assembly off the end of the CV and swing it out of the way, that way you're not tearing into the hub and rotor. Due to the time of the job I elected to have it done at the dealership. I've been in a dozen solid axle knuckles and know the feeling of having to tear it all apart again because the seal did seat right or whatever. I didn't want to have to pull the CV apart again because the boot tore a week after I put it on.

Regardless if you do the CV youreslf, I'd buy the FSM, there's is (or was) a '99 set for sale in the classifieds.
 
I don't think that I will have a hard time getting the CV out or in. Had to do that with the front diff replacement.


Is the actual rebooting of the CV (cleaning, adding grease, etc.) a hard job? Does everything stay together or do all the balls fall all over the place and its hard to fix it?

Thanks
 
i had to get both my CV axles rebuilt this week. $700. did i get ripped off?
 
I got a question. Both of my front axles are off truck due to dead diff. Noticed one of the cv boots are leaking on both sides. The most outer one I believe. The truck has 170000 miles on it. Should I have everything rebuilt and new boots put on while everything is apart? How much does that cost, generally? Or is it something I can do myself? I do not have a Repair service manual but am eyeing one for 139 on ebay. Is that a good deal or too much. Thanks.
 
blue, if you've had them out for the front diff, you'll have an easy time. Hardest part will be separating the joint, there's a couple youtube vid's out there on different techniques. One's an Aussie gent that has a good method.
 

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