Drawer, water storage, and shower questions?

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LSUfj

LSUfj

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10 Year 15 Year
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Nov 16, 2006
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105
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891
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I am looking to build some drawers in the next few weekends. I am also going to install a helton shower system. I have a few questions/ideas. Drawers will be similar to this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/136736-another-perspective-rear-storage.html

1. Does the inline pump that comes with the helton and other systems work well? I noticed most install a permanent shurflo, in these cases, are you ditching the small inline pump that comes with the kit. Snooks ROTW thread is very helpful, but I am still curious how the shurflo or similar pump is plumbed. Is it worth paying $55 for this showerhead/pump combo?

2. I am wanting to have water with just in case there is no water available. I thought about mounting one of these RV/marine water tanks in one of the drawers. There is a 21 gallon that would fit nicely in one drawer. I would not mount it permanently, so the drawer could be used for other purposes as well. See link below for the tanks I am considering. Any thoughts/comments on capacity are appreciated. The 21 gallon will fill an entire drawer, and a 16 gallon will leave about 12 inches in the front or rear, but will require the entire drawer system to be about 3 inches higher. This might make it too high to use as a sleeping surface. Comments???

West Marine: Polyethylene Water Tanks Product Display

3. I was going to use quick connects for water outlet, and make the pumping system capable of pulling water from the tank or another source. I dont want to run a water line from the engine compartment to the back inside of the truck. I would prefer to run it underneath and pop inside near the rear. Are there any penetrations in the rear quarter areas?
 
The pump and shower head that come with the HH are OK. If you're trying to conserve water you just need to be cognizant of the flow. And when the water is hot and flowing you need to watch to be sure the soft hose they supply doesn't get kinked.

I ended up breaking mine and it was an excuse to try to aim for high pressure/low volume...which I did with an Aquajet pump. It works great but I have to admit its a bit over engineered for a freak'n shower :rolleyes:.
 
My drawer/water storage project has been on the back burner for awhile now but it is similar to what you want. I purchased this 20 gallon water tank , 10x12x40. There would be two drawers and then behind those, one storage compartment for the water tank.

The storage tank area would be closest to the back seat, 43" wide x 12" deep x 10" tall. The height of the water tank plus the top/bottom wood is approximately equal to the height of the 2nd row seat when folded. There would be access from above allowing the tank to be removed and the space used for storage.

As for access into the trunk area, there is an access hole with a plastic cover on the driver's side rear 1/4 panel. You can see/feel this plastic cover if you remove the outer tail light and reach down.
 
my project is on the back burner also but please keep the posts up so i can possibly follow your lead; i really like the idea of having the water tnk removable also becuase of space etc. are you doing the install yourself? I'm not that good with stuff and was going to use a 4x4 shop near me (ok4wd). thanks good luck
 
I haven't started this project for the 100 yet but I did prototype a set for the FJ40. I used scrap wood from a construction site just to get an idea of how to make it work.

I like the idea of plastic bins rather than drawers. Maybe just some 1X2 framed trays with 1/4 ply skins and plastic runners to keep weight down. Slides and heavy drawers seem to take up a lot of room and add weight.
Dscn1893.jpg



I carpeted the top so Jake, the dog, would have better traction. The tie downs are standard hatch rings like those used in the access covers for the crawl space in your house. I really don't use them much because they are usually under gear or in the wrong place. I added a couple of pieces of unistrut later which works out much better. The 100 will get some kind of rail system for tie downs.
Dscn2236.jpg


I learned a lot from this project.
 
LSUfj said:
A rail tie down system would be really cool. Anyone know where to source parts for something like this?
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In my Fj40 I used Unistrut, it is available at home stores in the electrical department.
strut02.jpg

It comes in 10' lengths, if you know somebody in construction you could probably get short pieces free.
They sell all kinds of straps and stuff that work with the system
unistrc00004_139_tr_001.jpg

You could use an eye bolt with these nuts to fab an adjustable system
P1000.gif


I know it's not as pretty as some would like but it is very versatile.
 
For my water I used a 60 L water tank with foodgrade quality hose(with a tap at both ends) to dispell any chance of bad tasting water.

dscf2901.jpg


I mounted the tank on top of my AO drawers by using square tubing alu with Maizey connectors to basically box the tank in. The frame is open in the front at the bottom allowing the tank be completely removed for cleaning or just partially removed for filling up. On top of the frame I fixed a shaped piece of wood covered with carpet as I did not want to loose "tiedown space". I fitted some round eye shoulderbolts all along the bottom of the frame to act as sturdy tiedown points.

dscf2902.jpg


I have used this setup for more than 2 years without any problems at all.I regularly carry 2 canvas tents(25kg each) on there with other stuff ontop. I like the fact that I can totally remove it if need be and the fact that it distributes the weight nicely when looking at the loaded 95L fridge ;)

dscf2905.jpg
 
AdventureBuddies said:
That's a great tank shape - been looking for something like it. It says it's a holding tank though - is it good for potable water?
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In our case, we do need a water tank for our built in water heater shower system more than drinking.

I have explored the use of micro-filter system to make it potable water but it comes in three filter stages (take up lots of space but best result) to have a safe drinkable water so we will use chilled bottled waters anyway.

For drinking.
Water Purifiers

Not only this 16g holding tank is equal to three water containers but keep the truck's center of gravity as low as possible.

Cheers,
 
hoser said:
Tmarx, I like your set-up. But even with the hatch up and the fridge slide, isn't it tough to get in your fridge?!
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I replaced the original "hinges" with quick release type catches so I only need to lift the lid about 15mm and then it just slides off completely. However to be able to see inside I have to get onto the rear seat or jump on the rear hatch which can be a bit cumbersome at times. Even with the 74L NL fridge I would have had to do the same as the footprint is exactly the same but height is only 100mm less. I would rather have an extra 20l of fridge space than 100mm of wasted space...;)

r3run33 said:
tmax that is a very nice setup; how do you send the hoses out of the cabin to warm the water???
Click to expand...

Thanx.
:eek:You guys actually shower in hot water ? :hillbilly: Seriously though, the onboard heated shower systems are not that popular around here.Portable lpg systems are available and some do use them but for the trips that I do we usually heat some water separately and shower/wash in a fold-up bucket, using a simple 12v shower pump, provided we have enough water. Another favorite is the solar showers ...
 
flow schematic

Anyone ever use quick connects for water lines? Any problems with the female ends leaking? I made this sketch up to show how I planned to install. The pump suction will have a male quick connect that can either pull water from the tank or a suction line run out to where ever there is water. The additional suction line will normally just be stored along with a line that can be used to connect a hose to fill the tank (filler line).

the pump discharge can either go to the heat exchanger (HX) or to a line for cold water only. I would just go through the HX with the temp control valve shut, but the helton site says its not safe for drinking. The cold water line would have a valve that is closed when using hot water. Since the quick connects have a check valve, the ends of the cold and hot water lines could be used with check valves to divert flow to whatever line is open (hot or cold). The box indicates everything mounted under the hood. Pump might be under there, but I may put it on the frame somewhere.



Question: does the heater have to be running for coolant to flow through the HX? Or is there a section of hose that always has coolant ready for flow?

Thanks,

Bret
hot water.webp
 
i would definetly like the hot or at least warm water setup; even in nice 70 degree (30 celsius) its ruff rinsing off with cold water; i would definetly not use it for drinking. My need is for rinsing off after surfing in the ocean. I currently fill up so plastic gallon containers and they warm up in a locked up car in the sun so they are nice a toasty when i get to them. now as for occasional camping trips it would be nice to shower. I also wants the quick disconnects simlar to snooks set up
 
LSUfj said:
Anyone ever use quick connects for water lines? Any problems with the female ends leaking? I made this sketch up to show how I planned to install. The pump suction will have a male quick connect that can either pull water from the tank or a suction line run out to where ever there is water. The additional suction line will normally just be stored along with a line that can be used to connect a hose to fill the tank (filler line).

the pump discharge can either go to the heat exchanger (HX) or to a line for cold water only. I would just go through the HX with the temp control valve shut, but the helton site says its not safe for drinking. The cold water line would have a valve that is closed when using hot water. Since the quick connects have a check valve, the ends of the cold and hot water lines could be used with check valves to divert flow to whatever line is open (hot or cold). The box indicates everything mounted under the hood. Pump might be under there, but I may put it on the frame somewhere.



Question: does the heater have to be running for coolant to flow through the HX? Or is there a section of hose that always has coolant ready for flow?

Thanks,

Bret
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It depends on where you tap the heater lines. You should be able to tap any where before, closer to the block, than the heater valve and anywhere in the heater return line.
 
TJM now offers a bunch of nice water tanks in different shapes and sizes. Might be some difficulty in shipping some of the larger ones though. I like how the pump mounts on the tank.

PolyRV
 
hoser said:
TJM now offers a bunch of nice water tanks in different shapes and sizes. Might be some difficulty in shipping some of the larger ones though. I like how the pump mounts on the tank.

PolyRV
Click to expand...

Useful link!

BTW, I had to mounted my RV water pump inside my truck when my buddy tells me he had to replace his rusty RV water pump only after two years of exposure to the outside elements. The RV motor pump was designed in mind to be installed internally, not externally.

Regards,
 
Snook said:
Useful link!

BTW, I had to mounted my RV water pump inside my truck when my buddy tells me he had to replace his rusty RV water pump only after two years of exposure to the outside elements. The RV motor pump was designed in mind to be installed internally, not externally.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Have you had any issues with leaks? How are the quick connects holding up? Will the female end leak when nothing is connected (if pressurized)?
 
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