How's your 100 Series Body Lift? (4 Viewers)

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I know there are at least a couple of MUDders that have installed body lifts. Maybe more.

It seems like when you get into the "true" 35" tires, like the Toyo OC MT (taller and wider than most), the best way to reduce rubbing might be via body lift.

<edit> What size lift are you running and why did you choose that height?

What are the pros and cons? Any other modifications to accommodate the lift like extending pedals, shift levers, etc?

DIY job? Was it a difficult install? If not, who did the work? Were the lift blocks custom made?

Thanks
 
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I installed a 12mm BL to mine about a month ago per ats4x4.com's (thanks again Darren!) recommendation. It eliminated any fender contact with my 315R75 16 MT/R tires. I used a hole saw and my drill press and cut them from 1/2" (nominal) UHDMW UV tolerant plate. The plate cost me $10...and it took me a day to complete...mostly because I had to remove my AO drawer frame and my sliders.

Works great, no downsides, easy & cheap upgrade (I had to use new bolts because of the rust issue with my rig and I swapped a couple of longer bolts in...)for those running 35".
 
spressoman, any pics of your body lift? How do you lift up the truck to install the spacers under the body? Is it a couple of guy job?
 
spressoman, any pics of your body lift? How do you lift up the truck to install the spacers under the body? Is it a couple of guy job?


I'll snap a couple pics for you when my rig gets back to me. Other than there is a black 12mm spacer at each body mount there isn't anything different to view. I placed a 2x4 under my floor jack and lifted each side of the body at the rocker panel to get clearance for the "pucks".

You need to pull the carpet back at each body mount location (you'll need to remove the tailgate plastic trim piece to be able to access the bolts within the rear quarter panel areas (where the jack is stowed and same spot on the PS side) to access the bolts. Pretty simple really...just takes time. Loosen all bolts DS & PS. Then remove the nuts from DS OR PS (do one side at a time!)...pull one bolt out at a time after you've lifted one side high enough to slide the 12mm puck in. Install the nuts on that side but do not tighten...then repeat on the opposite side of the rig. Tighten them all down when all the pucks are in place.

I promised to do a little write up...guess I better get going on that :rolleyes:.
 
Is it worth all that trouble just for 12MM?? Is is you did not want more or you could not lift more. Can you notice any diffrence when you look at the truck.?I mean can't you do more than that if one wants to. May be like2-3 inches??? may be more :o))
 
Is it worth all that trouble just for 12MM?? Is is you did not want more or you could not lift more. Can you notice any diffrence when you look at the truck.?I mean can't you do more than that if one wants to. May be like2-3 inches??? may be more :o))


Not worth the trouble if you're OK with front and rear fender rub :flipoff2:. 12mm is all I needed but you can lift as much as you want. Why would you want more BL than you actually need?
 
In other words you can BL more than 12MM the same way you did but using thicker pucks. There is no addotional work to do if I want to do about 2 inches?? Very interesting.....your pictures and writeup would be greatly appriciated...
Cheers
 
Is it worth all that trouble just for 12MM?? Is is you did not want more or you could not lift more. Can you notice any diffrence when you look at the truck.?I mean can't you do more than that if one wants to. May be like2-3 inches??? may be more :o))

In other words you can BL more than 12MM the same way you did but using thicker pucks. There is no addotional work to do if I want to do about 2 inches?? Very interesting.....your pictures and writeup would be greatly appriciated...
Cheers
As a point of reference a typical body lift on an FJ40 is around 1" (25mm)
More than that is :hillbilly: and starts to get into linkage issues. Remember there are a lot of connections between the body and frame besides the body mounts.
In general; higher body = higher center of gravity = bad.
Keeping the COG as low as possible is a good thing.
 
In other words you can BL more than 12MM the same way you did but using thicker pucks. There is no addotional work to do if I want to do about 2 inches?? Very interesting.....your pictures and writeup would be greatly appriciated...
Cheers

Yes: Same procedure as my 12mm lift for taller lifts EXCEPT you'll need longer body retention bolts and with exception to the following. I am not aware of anyone that has installed a body lift other than myself (stateside anyway ;)). However, I believe, a 1" body lift can be installed onto an 80-series LC without steering linkage issues. I would assume (assumptions are never bankable!) the 100 would tolerate a 1" lift without issue like the 80-series: But I am not sure. But again...I don't know what functional purpose it would serve really.

FYI: Raising the body will result in a gap, the same measure as the lift, in between the bumpers and body.
 
I have seen few 100's with about 2 to 3 inches body lift and they look awesome. So the functional purpose would be the "look" :o))
 
I have seen few 100's with about 2 to 3 inches body lift and they look awesome. So the functional purpose would be the "look" :o))

Wouldn't that be the dysfunctional purpose? :lol:
 
I have seen few 100's with about 2 to 3 inches body lift and they look awesome. So the functional purpose would be the "look" :o))


Well...you would actually get better approach and departure angles assuming you also raised the bumpers...but IMO more - issues than +.
 
Search posts from Christian13789, he has a 10 cm (4") body lift + a 2" suspension lift.
 
spressomon, At what point would the radiator shroud / fan clearance become a factor or did you address it in the BL?


I have not actually measured mine as Darren stated it isn't an issue with his 10mm lift. However right after I installed my lift I felt between the fan blade and the radiator shroud and it seems there is about 1" there...if I get time in the next few days I'll see if I can get an actual measurement on it.
 
that's it? just spacers and longer bolts? Nothing more? Nothing electrical, shifters, all that stuff?
 
There are many Japanese body lift kits. Here is a 4" BL that includes a bunch of stuff. The second pic is of a stabilization bar. 3rd pic is of brackets to line up bumpers after BL. I would think anything over 1-2" is a little overboard. Better off just clearancing the fenders/wheel wells.
4WD07_P0647_11_S0285.webp
4WD07_P0647_10_S0380.webp
bumper.webp
 
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