avicenna110
SILVER Star
Background/Motivation:
I didn't see a write-up/discussion on this, so I thought I would start one. I am a beginner at this, so I am hoping others with more experience can contribute to this. I didn't know much about this process before my build. Our FJ40's are all getting rusty so we all face this issue of rust removal/prevention. There are many options out there, but for some parts, especially hardware like screws/nut/bolts you can't really do anything better than plating. There are other options when everything is put together, like painting over everything, but personally I am not a big fan of that. This itself is a topic of conversation, so I will stop here and others can chime in.
Safety:
when dealing with chemicals always wear gloves, eye protection and a good proper mask. If possible leave workshop/garage door open when working.
The Process:
The process is quite simple, you have two electrodes connected to a power supply in a solution, a thin layer is transferred from your Zinc anode/positive electrode to the cathode/negative electrode, which in this case is the metal you're plating. Other metals can be used such and Nickel and Copper. So the essentials are the following:
- Power supply: I bought mine from amazon for ~$70. I needed a power supply for my garage anyways so I didn't mind this. You can also plate with old adapters, but I haven't tried this myself.
- White vinegar: 5% distilled water, bought 2 gallons from Costco for ~$5 and it's more than enough.
- Salt: to increase conductivity, I don't know the benefit of one kind over the other, so if you do please leave a comment.
- Zinc strips: you can buy Zinc plating strips for a few bucks to start off, or just buy a roll of Zinc roofing strips that are much cheaper per foot. I bought 50 feet for ~$30 and it will last a long time
- Other things: alligator clips, bare copper wires, buckets, degreaser, distilled water.
- Optional: aquarium bubbler, yellow chromate (more on this later)
this is my power supply:
my Zinc roll:
and the solution mixed (white vinegar + salt) in a bucket.
and the aquarium fish bubbler, which again is optional, this way I don't have to stir the solution every once in a while:
This is the setup: I cut two Zinc strips, dipped in on either side of the bucket and connected together by a wire then connected to the positive of the power supply. Negative is connected to a bare copper wire which the part is hanging from in the solution.
For a few bolts and screws start with 1 amps. The amount of current needed is a function of the surface area, but generally more current plates faster. I've read different answers on the recommended amps per square feet and am experimenting myself so I haven't mastered this part yet. Good thing is that you can tell when your part is plated.
You'll see bubbles coming off the part you're plating. Let it go until you see the part becoming grey (takes between 20-40 min depending on the current). This is the result of plating (just the bottom portion of the part):
Only the portion of the part that is dipped in the solution will get plated, and the area to be plated needs to be exposed to the solution so masking will prevent plating. Masking removed:
Zinc is very easy to polish, I use fine steel wool and in seconds you get this:
and you're done, the piece is now Zinc plated.
The yellow color that you usually see is not from Zinc plating itself since Zinc is a bright silverish color. The yellow color comes from dipping the part in yellow chromate solution that happens after.
I didn't see a write-up/discussion on this, so I thought I would start one. I am a beginner at this, so I am hoping others with more experience can contribute to this. I didn't know much about this process before my build. Our FJ40's are all getting rusty so we all face this issue of rust removal/prevention. There are many options out there, but for some parts, especially hardware like screws/nut/bolts you can't really do anything better than plating. There are other options when everything is put together, like painting over everything, but personally I am not a big fan of that. This itself is a topic of conversation, so I will stop here and others can chime in.
Safety:
when dealing with chemicals always wear gloves, eye protection and a good proper mask. If possible leave workshop/garage door open when working.
The Process:
The process is quite simple, you have two electrodes connected to a power supply in a solution, a thin layer is transferred from your Zinc anode/positive electrode to the cathode/negative electrode, which in this case is the metal you're plating. Other metals can be used such and Nickel and Copper. So the essentials are the following:
- Power supply: I bought mine from amazon for ~$70. I needed a power supply for my garage anyways so I didn't mind this. You can also plate with old adapters, but I haven't tried this myself.
- White vinegar: 5% distilled water, bought 2 gallons from Costco for ~$5 and it's more than enough.
- Salt: to increase conductivity, I don't know the benefit of one kind over the other, so if you do please leave a comment.
- Zinc strips: you can buy Zinc plating strips for a few bucks to start off, or just buy a roll of Zinc roofing strips that are much cheaper per foot. I bought 50 feet for ~$30 and it will last a long time
- Other things: alligator clips, bare copper wires, buckets, degreaser, distilled water.
- Optional: aquarium bubbler, yellow chromate (more on this later)
this is my power supply:
my Zinc roll:
and the solution mixed (white vinegar + salt) in a bucket.
and the aquarium fish bubbler, which again is optional, this way I don't have to stir the solution every once in a while:
This is the setup: I cut two Zinc strips, dipped in on either side of the bucket and connected together by a wire then connected to the positive of the power supply. Negative is connected to a bare copper wire which the part is hanging from in the solution.
For a few bolts and screws start with 1 amps. The amount of current needed is a function of the surface area, but generally more current plates faster. I've read different answers on the recommended amps per square feet and am experimenting myself so I haven't mastered this part yet. Good thing is that you can tell when your part is plated.
You'll see bubbles coming off the part you're plating. Let it go until you see the part becoming grey (takes between 20-40 min depending on the current). This is the result of plating (just the bottom portion of the part):
Only the portion of the part that is dipped in the solution will get plated, and the area to be plated needs to be exposed to the solution so masking will prevent plating. Masking removed:
Zinc is very easy to polish, I use fine steel wool and in seconds you get this:
and you're done, the piece is now Zinc plated.
The yellow color that you usually see is not from Zinc plating itself since Zinc is a bright silverish color. The yellow color comes from dipping the part in yellow chromate solution that happens after.
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