Zerostart Circulation Engine Heater

[JM74]

When I bought the truck after first inspection under the hood almost everything looked good *check* and I saw the Zerostart coolant heater and i thought sweet bonus, but it did look like a pretty shabby setup with the heater being held up by zip ties, tied to the air filter casing. Got to -6 last night and when i went out to warm up the truck this morning i was surprised to see a decent amount of frost on the window.

Anyways got home tonight and went the plug the block heater in and it keeps poping the reset button on the outside garage outlet so i grabbed a long extension cord and plugged it in, inside the house and left it for about 35ish mins went out and felt it and the heater itself was still cold as well as the hoses going to it?? (also there is no sound when i plug in the heater). Just wondering if anyone has had this problem with the block heater before and if there any tips to try and troubleshoot it, it would be awesome to have it working for the winter!!

 

[Dork]

The "reset" button on your receptacle outside is likely for a GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor). If it's tripping when you plug it in, it means that there is probably some amount of leakage current to ground, but a small enough amount that your normal receptacle in the house isn't tripping because of it.

Not saying it's for sure, but it COULD mean that the heating element is burnt out, but not making a full circuit to ground, just leaking some current, hence the GFCI tripping, and no heat from the unit.

 

[JM74]

Thanks for the reply. Wouldn't this mean that the normal receptacle in the house be providing power to the heater?? therefore it should've gotten hot over the time period that i left it? is there a pump in the unit to circulate the coolant through it and shouldn't that make a sound when the heater is plugged in??

 

[Dork]

The receptacle in the house is staying on and providing power, but it might just be leaking to ground instead of going through the resistive element inside the heater (or pump motor windings, if that model has an internal pump?). That would be my first guess as to why it trips the outdoor GFCI, but stays on in the house, and still doesn't get warm. As an electrician, I would pull the heater box apart, and see what's inside, and start using my multi-meter to check out the different components to see what part has failed. It could even be in the cord that connects the heater to your plug, for all I can tell over the internet.

A GFCI is made to trip from a very small amount of current (like 5mA) to ground, which would often indicate something being wet, which is why they are usually used outside, or near sinks in bathrooms and stuff, so it trips before it's a hazard. Your indoor plug will allow it to draw current up to the breaker/fuse rating before it trips. Knowing that is why I think you have a wiring failure somewhere that is causing the leak to ground.

 

[JM74]

Awesome thanks for the reply! that really helps ill pull it apart tomorrow when i get home. Ill let you know what happens. Im not sure i has a pump but i assumed so after looking up the model and reading that it is a circulation heater pump, not entirely sure though.
thanks again

 

[Rifleman]

Thanks for the reply. Wouldn't this mean that the normal receptacle in the house be providing power to the heater?? therefore it should've gotten hot over the time period that i left it? is there a pump in the unit to circulate the coolant through it and shouldn't that make a sound when the heater is plugged in??

If i remember right, these things don't use a pump to move the water. What they do is they rely on some type of thermo principle that causes the water to circulate in the cooling system on its own, from an area of hot, to cold. I'm not sure if your wanting to use this system for quicker hot air coming out of the ducts inside your cab, or for quick start up of your motor. What we found that worked great on diesel heavy equipment when the temps got cold, was a heating element glued to the oil pan. That element kept the oil nice and warm, that made for easy start ups, but you had to wait a few minutes before you got any hot air coming out of the heater. Here's a link to those heating pads. Wolverine Engine Heaters for Cars and Light Trucks - Made in USA

 

[Squash]

That thing is plumbed in wrong, suspect that because the plumbing is back asswards the darn thing over heated and burned out.
What you require is a threaded block adapter fitting to 5/8" heater hose.
Your will have to remove the engine block drain which should require a long 14mm socket. Access to drain is above DS front tire via the skirting.
The engine drain block adapter fitting is your cold supply line into heater. The heater should be mounted below the intake line in order to ensure a steady supply of coolant. Warm coolant flows up and therefore the discharge should connect via a "Y' fitting at least a foot above heater in order for convection to occur. Connect your PHH bypass line and below your heater valve in engine bay with the "Y".

If you buy a new one from CT the adapter is included as are decent directions....otherwise I can send you some pics.

PS the heater is mounted way to high up in engine bay. Mine are behind DS tire above the frame and are protected by the skirting.
For best results leave the defrost on when plugged in.

You probably don't need it in the Okanagan.

Text me if you want pics

 

[JM74]

What about a freeze plug heater, just nock the plug out on the block behind the exhust heat shield and screw the thing in?? itll warm up the coolant in the block at least. Dont think itll get cold enough here to need my full cooling system heated (but it would be nice in the mornings when i go to put the heat on). Are you running a Zerostart model from CT like this one

 

[Squash]

That's it.
Bottom ties into block via threaded block adapter to 5/8 hose. Top sends warm coolant to your Red PHH bypass and heater hose using the "Y"
Your set up will take no time because you will not have to deal with the PHH.

Yes the traditional freeze plug block heat works, but the above works like a champ.
for maximum heat use the 1500 watt unit

 

[mod5csi]

That thing is plumbed in wrong, suspect that because the plumbing is back asswards the darn thing over heated and burned out.
What you require is a threaded block adapter fitting to 5/8" heater hose.
Your will have to remove the engine block drain which should require a long 14mm socket. Access to drain is above DS front tire via the skirting.
The engine drain block adapter fitting is your cold supply line into heater. The heater should be mounted below the intake line in order to ensure a steady supply of coolant. Warm coolant flows up and therefore the discharge should connect via a "Y' fitting at least a foot above heater in order for convection to occur. Connect your PHH bypass line and below your heater valve in engine bay with the "Y".

If you buy a new one from CT the adapter is included as are decent directions....otherwise I can send you some pics.

PS the heater is mounted way to high up in engine bay. Mine are behind DS tire above the frame and are protected by the skirting.
For best results leave the defrost on when plugged in.

You probably don't need it in the Okanagan.

Text me if you want pics

Care to post pics of your setup, please?

 

[Squash]

1. DS front skirting remove for access, you can even remove tire, I don't and I don't even drain the coolant.

2. Mounting bracket location using 12mm? bolt to frame and brake line bracket, the crap you see is ty wrpped extra hose protection in case of rubbing. mount heater lower than supply to prevent heater burn out and enhance convection...heat rising!

3. Access to block drain which you need to remove in order to install threaded 5/8 heater hose adapter. 14mm deep socket and long extenision make the removal and install easy. Block drain is your cold coolant supply to heater.

4. "Y" fitting to complete flow.
Top of heater fitting is the straight part of "Y" fitting supplying heated coolant to your heater and that is why you should leave the defrost on when plugging in the heater. The "Y" left branch ties into the PHH fitting.

Note: if you have bypassed the PHH metal pipe with hose this is a simple mod.

Lastly....the supplied power cord is mighty short, R&R as required add protection from rubbing.

 

[JM74]

Looks like it would be easy enough to set up on my truck. Is There a specific thread count on the 5/8 heater Hose adaptor can I buy the part at CT.

 

[Squash]

comes with the Heater kit