zero pressure to clutch pedal (1 Viewer)

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Aug 20, 2012
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McKinney, TX
OK, I've been bad. I've let my 40 sit for three months without driving it...actually without even touching it. We just moved and I've been buried with house stuff. Well, hop in yesterday and go to start it....left foot slams down to the floor board - zero resistance/pressure for the clutch pedal. No leaks under it...so I'm just assuming there's air in the line, or could the master/slave gone bad?

I'm a super visual person, but haven't been able to find any decent shots/videos on how to bleed it. I've only bled brakes before.

What am I missing from this shot? Does anyone have any good pics or video of doing this? I looked at the Toyota repair manual I have and the pics are so bad you can barely make anything out. I was expecting to see some fitting similar to the brake caliper for bleeding. I'm sure I'm just being an idiot.

any help is appreciated. I've searched the hell out of MUD but haven't found anything.

IMG_3647.jpg
 
Is there fluid in the reservoir?
 
It's just like bleeding brakes. Bleed using the bleed screw in the slave cylinder. As pighead said, make sure to top off the master cylinder first.
 
The bleeder is on the slave. Fill the reservoir, put an aquarium hose on the bleeder and direct to an empty beer bottle. Then slightly (very slightly) crack the bleeder. Let it sit overnight…let gravity do it’s thing…drink the rest of the six pack….by morning, should see a level in the bottle…. Then tighten the bleeder. Top off the reservoir.

Give the clutch a couple of pumps then have your wife or girlfriend pump the clutch for you. Make sure you have wheel chucks to keep the rig from rolling (depends on how far you trust your partner). Have them push slowly on the clutch and crack the bleeder while they’re pushing the peddle. Don’t let them release the clutch before you tighten the bleeder. Do this several times until you don’t see bubbles in the hose.

Then remove the hose and dispose of the bottle. Test drive…. Buy more beer. 😎
 
Is there fluid in the reservoir?
it's a little low, but there is fluid. So do I just loosen the nut on the right side and the fluid will drip out the hole in the front (of the pic)
 
It was running perfectly back in June.
 
Well, fill it up and pump the pedal and do a bleed, but start shopping for a slave and master rebuild kit
 
So your picture is of the Clutch Master Cylinder. The hole in the front is nothing. The nut on the side holds the hardline. Follow that hardline down, you will see it mates up to a soft line half way down the firewall on a bracket. follow the soft line, you will see it goes into the side of another unit on the top of the bell housing. there is a bleed valve, looks like a grease zerk on the side. of that. That is your clutch slave cylinder. take a small piece of clear tubing, put it on that zerk, fill the top reservoir with brake fluid and have someone else pump the clutch pedal. While they do that, use a 10mm line wrench and loosen it slightly until you see fluid running down the line. tighten it back up and see if the pedal stiffens up. I always run the clear line up, then down to a catch can so I can see any bubbles as bubbles like to rise. when pedal pressure returns, tighten up the fitting, and drive. then order a new master and slave and put them in next week.
 
So your picture is of the Clutch Master Cylinder. The hole in the front is nothing. The nut on the side holds the hardline. Follow that hardline down, you will see it mates up to a soft line half way down the firewall on a bracket. follow the soft line, you will see it goes into the side of another unit on the top of the bell housing. there is a bleed valve, looks like a grease zerk on the side. of that. That is your clutch slave cylinder. take a small piece of clear tubing, put it on that zerk, fill the top reservoir with brake fluid and have someone else pump the clutch pedal. While they do that, use a 10mm line wrench and loosen it slightly until you see fluid running down the line. tighten it back up and see if the pedal stiffens up. I always run the clear line up, then down to a catch can so I can see any bubbles as bubbles like to rise. when pedal pressure returns, tighten up the fitting, and drive. then order a new master and slave and put them in next week.
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks for the detail!
 
So your picture is of the Clutch Master Cylinder. The hole in the front is nothing. The nut on the side holds the hardline. Follow that hardline down, you will see it mates up to a soft line half way down the firewall on a bracket. follow the soft line, you will see it goes into the side of another unit on the top of the bell housing. there is a bleed valve, looks like a grease zerk on the side. of that. That is your clutch slave cylinder. take a small piece of clear tubing, put it on that zerk, fill the top reservoir with brake fluid and have someone else pump the clutch pedal. While they do that, use a 10mm line wrench and loosen it slightly until you see fluid running down the line. tighten it back up and see if the pedal stiffens up. I always run the clear line up, then down to a catch can so I can see any bubbles as bubbles like to rise. when pedal pressure returns, tighten up the fitting, and drive. then order a new master and slave and put them in next week.
Where's the best place to buy these? are OEM still available?
 
PM'd you
 
Aw man you’re close to me and I could help, but out of town the next 2 weeks. I know there’s others in Snohomish county on here. You can do it for sure, but if you needed help I’m sure someone nearby could lend a hand.
SlapSmak’s directions are spot on if you follow them. I bled my own by myself, but in all fairness, the transmission hump wasn’t installed yet.
 
Wife helped me. @SlapSmak thank you for the details....finding the slave was simple once you pointed me in the right direction. Clutch feels great now....but man, always seems like there's something right in the way of where you want/need the wrench to go.

Ordering new master and slave. Will install it during the winter when I redo the front end (brakes, calipers, soft lines, knuckles, etc).
 
Aw man you’re close to me and I could help, but out of town the next 2 weeks. I know there’s others in Snohomish county on here. You can do it for sure, but if you needed help I’m sure someone nearby could lend a hand.
SlapSmak’s directions are spot on if you follow them. I bled my own by myself, but in all fairness, the transmission hump wasn’t installed yet.
Thanks Skreddy....I'd forgotten to update my location. After 12 years in the PNW we decided to head back to TX.
 
Thanks Skreddy....I'd forgotten to update my location. After 12 years in the PNW we decided to head back to TX.
I’m not that close at all then!
 
Kurt sells a rebuild kit for those cylinders. They are not hard to rebuild.
And how does the hose look?
 
hose looks pretty good actually.
 

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