Zero oil pressure 2H

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cruiserland said:
Yes Big Brown, I am going to start there. I have found a source for the new and improved extended relief valve, price does seem high. Can you get these or point me in a direction? I may be inclined to purchase several. I have an hj60 with chronic filter leak, sounds like yours.
I still can't see my valve sticking open, the scoring doesn't seem deep enough, and it does move fairly easily, but it is possible. will try to stick my eyeball in there to look for any scratches or ridges.
oil pumps thru filter first, then cooler right?
Thanks for help all
A mate of mine came around this morning to pick up some parts and he is a diesel mechanic he was saying he has rebuilt a couple of 2H motors that had acceptable wear in the oil pumps but cranking would not prime the pumps.The only way was to start the motor as when the wear in the pump is evident they do not pick up the oil when empty but need run speed to get the oil through the pump.He said to tell you to fill the oil filter before fitting it as I said before and try running it for 10 to 15 seconds.He feels it should pick it up by then or else the pump needs to be pull down and measured up.Then do a vasoline pack if its within tolerances.. I used a small mirror to look into my bore on my pump and then used some 600 wet and dry wrapped around a marking pen to clean it up.Same with the bore on the filter pressure valve. The original pistons from Toyota are about $15.00 , spring $4 to $5.00 from memory. The replacement pistons are 5mm longer, this holds them square on in the bore and allows the oil past and to seal against the end of the bore.As the worn piston turns on the angle where its worn and does not sit square on. I paid $85.00 for my piston and spring when I did mine but prices now have come down app around $50.00 to $75.00 depending who you buy from.The spring for both pistons is the same spring the longer piston only has a longer skirt. My piston was jammed and I had to start the motor to blow it out, I could not pull it out by hand. If the housing is removed and the bore lightly oiled the piston should just slide down the bore under its own weight.
Re the leaking oil filter.. My filter leaked because the pressure in the pump bent the filter blowing the rubber oil seal the filter is the weakest point in high oil pressure It also split where the pressed seam is. It took 2 hours to get it off while being soaked with hot dirty oil.Was sure glad my son helped me, never again.LOL.
 
Been around during start up of a couple of 2Hs that have had the oil filter blow out due to too high oil pressure. Makes a mess doesn't it.
 
Mickldo said:
Been around during start up of a couple of 2Hs that have had the oil filter blow out due to too high oil pressure. Makes a mess doesn't it.
For sure, that oil don't was out, two sets of clothes ruined ,fried arms, was wondering what if the cops or council pulled up and said clean the road up mate.:o A bloke behind me in a Nissan Patrol was waving and flashing his lights when he drove up alongside I was ready to spit the dummy.:mad: :doh: :o :o When I wound the window down his lady said " mate you are loosing oil like nothing look at your truck".:crybaby: :o Thanks to him it saved my motor:D .Had to go another 50 yards to get off the road then the light came on,,really helpful.Oh what a feeling!:beer: :beer:
 
The couple of times it has happened to me was after start up on an engine rebuild. Was an apprentice at the time and was just helping the foreman keep an eye on everything during the initial start up. Luckily nobody got sprayed on both occasions.
 
bigbrowndog said:
A mate of mine came around this morning to pick up some parts and he is a diesel mechanic he was saying he has rebuilt a couple of 2H motors that had acceptable wear in the oil pumps but cranking would not prime the pumps.The only way was to start the motor as when the wear in the pump is evident they do not pick up the oil when empty but need run speed to get the oil through the pump.He said to tell you to fill the oil filter before fitting it as I said before and try running it for 10 to 15 seconds.He feels it should pick it up by then or else the pump needs to be pull down and measured up.Then do a vasoline pack if its within tolerances.. I used a small mirror to look into my bore on my pump and then used some 600 wet and dry wrapped around a marking pen to clean it up.Same with the bore on the filter pressure valve. The original pistons from Toyota are about $15.00 , spring $4 to $5.00 from memory. The replacement pistons are 5mm longer, this holds them square on in the bore and allows the oil past and to seal against the end of the bore.As the worn piston turns on the angle where its worn and does not sit square on. I paid $85.00 for my piston and spring when I did mine but prices now have come down app around $50.00 to $75.00 depending who you buy from.The spring for both pistons is the same spring the longer piston only has a longer skirt. My piston was jammed and I had to start the motor to blow it out, I could not pull it out by hand. If the housing is removed and the bore lightly oiled the piston should just slide down the bore under its own weight.
Re the leaking oil filter.. My filter leaked because the pressure in the pump bent the filter blowing the rubber oil seal the filter is the weakest point in high oil pressure It also split where the pressed seam is. It took 2 hours to get it off while being soaked with hot dirty oil.Was sure glad my son helped me, never again.LOL.

I did fill the filter before installation, and ran several times for 10-15 seconds, thinking along the same lines. Got no oil to reach pressure guage, have yet to pull filter to see if oil has over filled there....plan to pull filter housing and backprime from there next. Would a worn pump prime easier with thin oil or thick oil? thinking lighter oil would flow in easier and be picked easier by gear?? vaseline would prolly close tolerences to help pickup.
Filter has rotor type thingy on top of housing, cover held on by snapring, did disassemble and clean also, does anyone know what this does? will clean bore, new long piston coming, 4WD parts in alberta had order from Oz, about what BigBrownDog paid...
surprised there is not some sort of flapper valve in pickup tube to keep pump full of oil..
also seems strange that engine ran with good pressure, then failed to pump oil after sitting for 20 minutes, doesn't it? could oil system have been underfilled and lost prime after pumping oil out of sump? doesn't seem likely, I put in 2 1/2 gallons of oil...
If I run the engine without the relief plug/spring/cover, shouldn't oil come blowing out?
 
bigbrowndog said:
With the oil pressure check it should be done at normal operating temperature.

I thought 80 - 85 PSI are to much for normal operative temp ..

Cold for sure .. 80 - 85 at idle .. but at operative temp at mucha PSI that I get in my 2H 56 - 68 PSI @ 2000 rpm .. never try it at 3000 rpm .. But I don't think it go up anycase ..
 
Tapage said:
I thought 80 - 85 PSI are to much for normal operative temp ..

Cold for sure .. 80 - 85 at idle .. but at operative temp at mucha PSI that I get in my 2H 56 - 68 PSI @ 2000 rpm .. never try it at 3000 rpm .. But I don't think it go up anycase ..
I usually quote these figures as optimal see previous posts.. Did I forget to this time? cheers.
From the 2H -12HT factory manual.
Scan10062.jpg
 
bigbrowndog said:
I usually quote these figures as optimal see previous posts.. Did I forget to this time? cheers.
From the 2H -12HT factory manual.
Scan10062.jpg

ok ok ok ok ok ok .. you win :D

To be honest .. somene here get 85 PSI on your 2H or 12H-T engine at 3000 with normal operative temp . ?
 
third pressure relief valve

that is right, while putting old, cracked oil cooler housing on shelf i noticed relief plug inside, and realised I had not checked this one! Located under oil filter mount on cooler housing itself. Lo and behold, it was full of SAND! this prevented valve from moving at all. After cleaning it fired up but STILL HAD NO PRESSURE! Impossible!. I drove to the end of the driveway where there is a steep hill a nd pointe dthe truck nose down, 30 seconds later, the pressure guage slowly came up to full pressure , YAhoo!

Many thanks to all!
 
ok ok ok ok ok ok .. you win :D

To be honest .. somene here get 85 PSI on your 2H or 12H-T engine at 3000 with normal operative temp . ?

I just installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge it only goes up to 80 but I can max it out @ 80PSI @ 2900rpm. The truck is a JDM I got it with 108,000kms on the odometer and it now has 175,000kms.

I am running Rotella synthetic 0W-40W outside temperature about 3 degrees celsius

My truck very rarely seems that kind of engine speed. cruising @ 2000rpm @ 90km/h @65 PSI and EGTS anywhere from 650 to 1200 :eek:


I just installed the pyrometer and it's scary how fast it climbs to 1200 in 5th when climbing even a slight incline takes about 10 secs to hit 1200 floored in 5th on a flat road.

the 2H does not have a turbo. yet:D


Big Blue 84BJ60 I have only ever seen them on Ebay Australia and I have only seen the 2H ones but never really looked for the 3B ones.
 
Last edited:
2H oil filter still blowing out?

Hi guys just new here, hoping someone can give me an idea of what im overlooking when trying to solve the high oil pressure issue on my 2h (60 series) repeatedly blowing out oil filters. the stock gauge does hit sky high & has split open filters. the problem happened on start up suddenly one morning and so far:
:wrench: replaced oil pressure relief valve with 6mm longer one & cut spring near 1 coil shorter. visually inspected bore -OK
:wrench:changed oil viscosity and filter types
:wrench: also inspected relief valve on top of oil cannister housing. -OK

she has done 300,00 klms, with 5000 klm oil change intervals and regular flush.
Only thing i can think of now is maybe a blocked gallery tube coming from the oil filter housing??? but i do get oil pour out of the pressure relief valve when ive opened it up and cranked it over. the engine still sounds tight (no bottom end knocks) where else do i look?:bang:
 
Hi guys just new here, hoping someone can give me an idea of what im overlooking when trying to solve the high oil pressure issue on my 2h (60 series) repeatedly blowing out oil filters. the stock gauge does hit sky high & has split open filters. the problem happened on start up suddenly one morning and so far:
:wrench: replaced oil pressure relief valve with 6mm longer one & cut spring near 1 coil shorter. visually inspected bore -OK
:wrench:changed oil viscosity and filter types
:wrench: also inspected relief valve on top of oil cannister housing. -OK

she has done 300,00 klms, with 5000 klm oil change intervals and regular flush.
Only thing i can think of now is maybe a blocked gallery tube coming from the oil filter housing??? but i do get oil pour out of the pressure relief valve when ive opened it up and cranked it over. the engine still sounds tight (no bottom end knocks) where else do i look?:bang:

It might pay to start your own thread for this one Damo (to get more replies).

You say the "high oil pressure" problem happened suddenly, but was any work done on your engine just prior to this? (I'd expect to find an assembly error of some sort? Perhaps something fitted incorrectly or dropped into an oil passage to restrict/block it?)

:hhmm: "Blowing out oil filter cartridges" leaves no doubt that your oil pressure is way too high! (Does the oil pressure actually rupture the outer metal casing???????)

I would expect to find some SEVERE restriction somewhere after your filter ........ and if this is indeed the case ..... I'd then expect it to reduce the amount oil getting to your rockers/tappets. (Do they look dryish or well-lubricated?)

Is your oil cooler bypass valve the same as this on my B engine (and assembled the same way):

OilCoolerBypassValve.webp


And is your oil pressure relief valve the same as this on my B engine (and assembled the same way):

OilPressRelief.webp

:cheers:

PS. Sorry - I'm providing lots of questions really and not much in the way of solutions. And I don't have a 2H although I understand the B, 2B, and 3B engines are designed very much the same - but just missing a couple of cylinders and the associated stuff.
OilCoolerBypassValve.webp
OilPressRelief.webp
 
It might pay to start your own thread for this one Damo (to get more replies).

You say the "high oil pressure" problem happened suddenly, but was any work done on your engine just prior to this? (I'd expect to find an assembly error of some sort? Perhaps something fitted incorrectly or dropped into an oil passage to restrict/block it?)

:hhmm: "Blowing out oil filter cartridges" leaves no doubt that your oil pressure is way too high! (Does the oil pressure actually rupture the outer metal casing???????)

I would expect to find some SEVERE restriction somewhere after your filter ........ and if this is indeed the case ..... I'd then expect it to reduce the amount oil getting to your rockers/tappets. (Do they look dryish or well-lubricated?)

Is your oil cooler bypass valve the same as this on my B engine (and assembled the same way):

View attachment 324719


And is your oil pressure relief valve the same as this on my B engine (and assembled the same way):

View attachment 324720

:cheers:

PS. Sorry - I'm providing lots of questions really and not much in the way of solutions. And I don't have a 2H although I understand the B, 2B, and 3B engines are designed very much the same - but just missing a couple of cylinders and the associated stuff.
Hi Tom (lostmarbles) my name is Cam. thanks for your post, didnt have much luck today but will check on the back pressure behind the oil pressure relief valve tomorrow by backing it off to only a coule of threads and comparing the volume of oil bypassing the new valve in a given amount of time to the original valve as i measured a 1/2mm smaller diametre in the new longer one which is a real concern. may have to tap some holes and put in a bypass tube back to the sump if there is an issue with oil bypassing the valve and not allowing it to compress. By in answering your qustions, no work has been done recently, but i did do a synthetic oil change, but went back to mineral immediatley. and yes my pressure valves are very much the same as in yours but the filter housing has a slightly different angle (45 degrees?) and yes a good quality filter will blow out at the metal casing and a cheap asian one will blow out at the rubber seal first as i have discovered. will do some more tests tomorrow and let you know when/if i have progress. cheers Cam:cheers:
 

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