Yes, another drawer build....

[warezdog]

I tacked in the latches to the drawer fronts and used 1/2" all thread to mount. This was accomplished buy drilling 3 holes on each side of the latch, nipping the all thread at about 1-1/2" and then welding them in. I backed the inside of the drawers using this plate too. The drawers and deck are 3/4" maple ply, dadoes in the bottom and rabbited on the front and rear and then glued and nailed with 18g brads and then painted in left over floor paint. The top and sides are lined with mat used on rooftops for sat dish mounts since it was free and the drawer fronts and sides are cheap truckliner spray and then JD blitz black. The aluminum is the cheap stuff from the depot. Anchored with the existing 3rd row seats bolts and rear tie down bolts.

I used the rear pillar seatbelt mounts for extinguishers using some 2x3 aluminum angle, nipped the corners off the 2" side, shot JD Blitz black and mounted. Used the existing 3rd row grab mounts for quick fist mounts to get a shovel and axe mounted.

Still have lighting to do but it's 90% sorry the first vid is so loud, inside the parking garage and it echoes pretty loud when I slam the drawers shut.

 

[greentruck]

Nice work. Looks great!

 

[scrowley]

Very nice build. Really like the quick release mount

 

[devildogcruiser25]

good job on the build.

 

[ranchero7]

nice functional build Warezdog.

 

[warezdog]

Thanks for the kind words, it was a labor of love for sure but all in all much cheaper than buying anything else like it.

 

[mdandashly]

Seeing as how im new here, I'm inexperienced when it comes to this kind of stuff. However I'd be nervous having an ax strapped to the ceiling. I'd rest much easier knowing it was on the floor strapped down and less likely to becomes a projectile in case of accident or whatever.

But I do love the drawers. I've been thinking about building some that can be easily removed because I use the jump seats sometimes.

 

[Beau Diddly]

Great build, kudos. I'm looking at doing something similar, however I'm concerned about the weight of a system built from 3/4 maple ply. Have you, or anyone, considered building this from aluminum? It's easy to work, you can use your woodworking tools to build it, however aluminum can be tricky to weld if you don't want to use rivets.

 

[warezdog]

It uses just over a sheet of ply, I will probably go with a full aluminum build next time around after my tig skills improve a bit more. Yes it is heavy it makes the OME 863's sit down but the ride is nice. I didn't weight it before putting it in so I'm guessing on weight dry would be a few pounds over the two rear seats put together.

As far as the axe goes I was worried about that too until after I mounted it and tried to pull it off, I basically hung from it with nearly all my weight, those quick fists are pretty flipping good for the money.

 

[greentruck]

Great build, kudos. I'm looking at doing something similar, however I'm concerned about the weight of a system built from 3/4 maple ply. Have you, or anyone, considered building this from aluminum? It's easy to work, you can use your woodworking tools to build it, however aluminum can be tricky to weld if you don't want to use rivets.

Yeah, aluminum would be nice, but maybe a bit noisier, depending on lining the drawers, etc. I built a full-length drawer system in our truck. It is modular, so the second row seats can go back in, but I've never done that. It used about one sheet of 3/4 birch plywood, plus some misc boards for the under structure. Once you factor in the weight of the seats, especially if all are out except the front seats, I suspect there's not a great deal of weight difference. AL would gain you some capacity, but wood is still a viable choice.

Here's info on my build: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/camper-conversion-drawer-system.412084/

 

[bryson]

Is this the same extinguisher you have mounted to the seat belt holes?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TIW8EI/?tag=ihco-20

I like the idea a lot, but what are your thoughts about it's quality and the robustness of the mount? It looks slick and easy in your video, but do you think it'll stay put offroad?

 

[Hornd]

This setup is BA!

 

[Hornd]

Did you make a napkin dwg or have these dimensions? I would be willing to pay. I think I will shear my door fronts out of 3/16 aluminum diamond plate to match the Aluminum trim.
Where did you get latches and top flip up anchors?
The side storage is sweet as well for first aid, Mag Lite, tow strap, bottled waters, extinguisher, jumper cables, tools, D-rings, duffel of extra clothes and rain jacket, etc.... Outta sight outta mind as well.

 

[NLXTACY]

I would do a test on those extinguishers. My mom bought a bunch of those from some big box store in NC. We had a small fire during Thanksgiving. First one I grabbed just coughed. Second one was a little better but lackluster in its performance. The third worked as expected.

As for the drawer build, really freaking nice!

 

[spencertron]

looks great, nice job!

 

[warezdog]

Here's info on my build: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/camper-conversion-drawer-system.412084/

Sweel build there, I do like the birch a lot.

Is this the same extinguisher you have mounted to the seat belt holes? It looks slick and easy in your video, but do you think it'll stay put offroad?

That is the same one and I have two plus the big one in the left hand storage just incase they do the "puff and cough" NXACTLY mentions. The angle is nice because now I can mount any kiddie or first alert in that size to those anchors. I rent a barn out of town for a work shop and the road going to it is pretty rough and they've held well, I need to black tape the rings because you can hear them rattle around inside the plastic part of the mountmount.

Did you make a napkin dwg or have these dimensions? I would be willing to pay. I think I will shear my door fronts out of 3/16 aluminum diamond plate to match the Aluminum trim.
Where did you get latches and top flip up anchors?
The side storage is sweet as well for first aid, Mag Lite, tow strap, bottled waters, extinguisher, jumper cables, tools, D-rings, duffel of extra clothes and rain jacket, etc.... Outta sight outta mind as well.

I originally bought the cage from mud member Snorkalufugus found here https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drawer-system-frame-lc100-fj80.729298/page-2#post-8759280 and then heavily modified it by welding in some 45's at all four corners on all sides, lowering the rails to fit the ones that I had and removing the sides and using all thread (because I had that in hand) and welding in mount points because he was using turnbuckles to mount.

The anchors came off ebay $16 shipped for 4 is a flipping steal, these are heavy duty http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Trailer-R..._Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3389f5534f
Hinges ebay, descript was Steel Piano Hinge 23 3/4" x 1" - Pre-drilled - Brand New $16 shipped pair
Side pulls ebay $7.44 pair delivered Desrip Perko 1016DPBLK
Drawer paddle latches were northern tool http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326964_200326964

I would do a test on those extinguishers. My mom bought a bunch of those from some big box store in NC. We had a small fire during Thanksgiving. First one I grabbed just coughed. Second one was a little better but lackluster in its performance. The third worked as expected. As for the drawer build, really freaking nice!

Thanks for the heads up on the extinguishers, I have that big kiddie just in case and I wanted to use the d pillar seatbelt mounts for something!

looks great, nice job!

Thank you! This build also allows you to block the 2nd row seats when folded down to give you a level sleeping platform.

 

[Hornd]

Sweel build there, I do like the birch a lot.



That is the same one and I have two plus the big one in the left hand storage just incase they do the "puff and cough" NXACTLY mentions. The angle is nice because now I can mount any kiddie or first alert in that size to those anchors. I rent a barn out of town for a work shop and the road going to it is pretty rough and they've held well, I need to black tape the rings because you can hear them rattle around inside the plastic part of the mountmount.



I originally bought the cage from mud member Snorkalufugus found here https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drawer-system-frame-lc100-fj80.729298/page-2#post-8759280 and then heavily modified it by welding in some 45's at all four corners on all sides, lowering the rails to fit the ones that I had and removing the sides and using all thread (because I had that in hand) and welding in mount points because he was using turnbuckles to mount.

The anchors came off ebay $16 shipped for 4 is a flipping steal, these are heavy duty http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Trailer-R..._Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3389f5534f
Hinges ebay, descript was Steel Piano Hinge 23 3/4" x 1" - Pre-drilled - Brand New $16 shipped pair
Side pulls ebay $7.44 pair delivered Desrip Perko 1016DPBLK
Drawer paddle latches were northern tool http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326964_200326964



Thanks for the heads up on the extinguishers, I have that big kiddie just in case and I wanted to use the d pillar seatbelt mounts for something!



Thank you! This build also allows you to block the 2nd row seats when folded down to give you a level sleeping platform.

I purchased all the components above and will be making that box out of 1x1x11ga tube (just so happens I work at a fab shop!).
I already have the birch ply. The Perko flush mounts were slightly more $10 and change.
One more question: Where did you get your carpet and what did you use to attach it?
I'm putting a sub box in the front of mine and shortening the drawers accordingly. Expanded metal top should allow it to move without damage.
Of course I will post pics.

 

[warezdog]

For the top I used stuff called non penetrating roof mat. It's used to mount sat dishes on roof tops to protect the existing roof, we had some left over and it was going to be pitched so I took it home. Its basically this stuff http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.as...ase&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=google_base but look around and compare prices because its pretty cheap anther example http://www.a1components.com/BVModul...7a78081b2fd0&gclid=CN-c8JHI2b0CFUNqOgodPiEAiA

I used rubber cement gel, a quart will be way more than enough but economical to buy in that size. I spread it onto both the pad and the wood with a flexible disposable plastic putty knife, allowed it to tack up, 10-25 minutes depending on temp and then used a hard roller to make sure it adhered everywhere. MAKE SURE THAT WHEN YOU LAY IT DOWN IT'S RIGHT, you won't be getting it back up to correct. I left nearly an inch on all four sides and then trimmed it after it dried. THIS WILL SMELL FOR ALMOST A WEEK SO DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR CRUISER OR YOU'LL LIKELY BE OVERCOME WITH FUMES!. Mine still stank for about a week after that. For the bottoms of the drawers and under the side flip ups and rear I sprayed with the cheap duplicolor bedliner spray and then blitzed blacked it.

The rope rings I counter sunk by 3/32" deep and then 3/4" wider using a router and feathered the edge so the mat could slope down. This gave enough room to get the mat to lay flat and the mount to lay completely flush with the top. I backed the rope rings on the underside with a single plate just a tad bigger than the top plate and used nylocks, a bigger area to bite down on and spreads the load much better if you're really cinching things down hard up top.

The screws are all self tapping, make sure you buy the small washers to go under them so they'll spin against the washer when they bite otherwise they'll bind up the mat or strips of aluminum.

The rear of the side flip outs will have to be cut in at an angle in order to flip up with the 2nd row seats up, I didn't figure this out until the box was in, what a pain, a$$ and this also left some of my threaded rod support exposed.

I would have "adjusted" the threaded rod I welded in to support the flipsouts to better suit the space, I eyeballed it and could have done better and in retro spec could have just 45'd the rear and used the top fender bolt for another bracket, that would have give good enough support and left a much more manageable space to use.

Also my drawers are short of the full length by 6" because I also planned on trying to squeeze my 10" subs at an angle in there as well!

I just got my strip lighting in so with any luck this weekend I'll have some time to get it in. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121304533270

 

[scrowley]

just to add about the choice of wood. Birch ply is nice for cabinetry. They make paint grade and stain grade. A cheaper choice is 3/4" AC ply. This has the same strenth as birch. It has a "A" side which is paint grade and "C" side which is low quality. Works great when wrapping unit with carpet or bedliner. AC is about $25 less per sht. I used a 1.5 shts for my build and expect it weights approx. 100lbs. A 3/4" sht weighs approx. 60lbs.

To the OP nice setup. Best mod I have done, since I use my as sleeping platform when camping solo.

 

[warezdog]

The depot here doesn't carry any full sheets of true 3/4 in good on one side, 23/32 they do but its crappy, knotted, warped, and more hollow voids than you'd care to know about. I paid $38 a sheet for true 3/4" maple compared to $25 for the crappy knotted stuff, for me it was peace of mind and cheaper than red oak or birch. The good on one side ply sure isn't as good as it was at one time, heck its hard to tell between that and sheathing anymore here in the NE.