Builds Yellow Unicorn!! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The drawer system and flat bed are mounted to the truck...glad as it was getting old taking them on and off to fit everything. I ended up raising the headache rack to clear the roof correctly and I added another bar to it. I still need to cut down the drop sides for the bed, add the tie down bar, aluminum mud guards and I may toss on a couple more side boxes. Also working on taillights for the truck as well.

IMG_7544.JPG


IMG_7545.JPG
 
Had a little time today so went crazy with the drill and got a lot of things put on the bed. Aluminum shavings are a lot like sand as they get in the darnedest of places! Modified tie town bar and installed. Made brackets and installed rear lights. Made brackets and installed fuel filler neck. Installed rear aluminum mud guards. Installed additional side boxes.

IMG_7559.JPG


IMG_7560.JPG


IMG_7561.JPG
 
Then I found myself with a little more time so decided to modify the look of the front end a bit.

IMG_7553.JPG


IMG_7554.JPG


IMG_7556.JPG


IMG_7557.JPG


IMG_7558.JPG
 
which headlights did you go with? 24V right?

Blomdala is right this truck is 12 Volt being an ex fire unit. Normally for 24V and 12V I use Truck Lite units and have had really good luck with them. This time one of my vendors gave me a set of JW speaker clone lights to try out, hard to pass up free stuff to play with.
 
Blomdala is right this truck is 12 Volt being an ex fire unit. Normally for 24V and 12V I use Truck Lite units and have had really good luck with them. This time one of my vendors gave me a set of JW speaker clone lights to try out, hard to pass up free stuff to play with.
Eco 45, I havent checked wiring diagrams yet, but I thought I remember someone saying you can run 12v headlights as well because one head light per battery for equal draw? Seems logical to me, but also maybe it was a "mod" (on a 24V model, not this truck)
 
Eco 45, I havent checked wiring diagrams yet, but I thought I remember someone saying you can run 12v headlights as well because one head light per battery for equal draw? Seems logical to me, but also maybe it was a "mod" (on a 24V model, not this truck)

That would be some very creative wiring as you would have to isolate the batteries, make sure the alternator didn't supply power to the lights and separate the park and taillights from the circuit as well. I have known people to use 24V to 12V reducers to run 12 volt lights. Problem is if the reducer goes out then you loose everything it is running. I know the 24V stuff isn't cheap, but I would rather have only one light go out than all the lights go out if something dies.
 
That would be some very creative wiring as you would have to isolate the batteries, make sure the alternator didn't supply power to the lights and separate the park and taillights from the circuit as well. I have known people to use 24V to 12V reducers to run 12 volt lights. Problem is if the reducer goes out then you loose everything it is running. I know the 24V stuff isn't cheap, but I would rather have only one light go out than all the lights go out if something dies.
OK that makes more sense. I don't know what I was reading HA. I agree, radio with its own 12v circuit is not critical with a failure, headlights are another story... There are quite a few great options that run 12-36v anyhow so its not a problem!
 
Here you can see how much of the original Ute bed had to be removed to fit the truck. The Ute bed was made for a Ford Ranger with a full length bed.

IMG_7562.JPG


IMG_7563.JPG
 
Factory bed modifications complete. Well I still need to build a spare tire holder....

IMG_7564.JPG


IMG_7565.JPG
 
After getting the bed done I couldn't resist taking the truck for a little drive, plus I needed to load it up on the trailer to take to the exhaust shop today. Here are a couple photos showing the the before and where it sits right now. Still more work to do.

IMG_6995.JPG.jpeg


IMG_7566.JPG


70008030483016030800100.jpg


IMG_7569.JPG
 
What are planning on running for exhaust? I need to do mine and not sure what pipe sizes and muffler type I should think about
 
What are planning on running for exhaust? I need to do mine and not sure what pipe sizes and muffler type I should think about

For a non turbo 1HZ I usually run 2.5" exhaust and have had good luck with Magnaflow mufflers. They are not too restrictive and tone down the sound just enough.
 
Decided to add a little Toyota to my bumper. Also found some LED lights laying around my shop that I plan on fitting in the turn signal location on the bumper, just need to make some brackets.

IMG_7589.JPG


IMG_7590.JPG
 
Was able to make the brackets and get the small lights mounted in the blinker locations in the bumper today.

IMG_7594.JPG
 
Welded up a simple spare tire mount for the bed. Has the same thread pitch as the truck so also adds a couple spare lug nuts on hand in case needed.

IMG_7621.JPG


IMG_7622.JPG
 
OK that makes more sense. I don't know what I was reading HA. I agree, radio with its own 12v circuit is not critical with a failure, headlights are another story... There are quite a few great options that run 12-36v anyhow so its not a problem!
I seem to remember my 87 Canadian BJ-70 (24V) ran 12V headlights, but it's been a long time ago.
 
Getting down to some of the smaller items on the list. Replaced the dash that has holes in it, found another LED light bar that fit well with the bumper. Part of the adventure for me is the building of the vehicle...this one is coming to an end. So many ideas for the next one have been created I might let this truck find a new home as a man can only own so many trucks. Time will tell.

IMG_7628.JPG


IMG_7629.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom