Ye olde 1hz is now over 700 k km's so it's shim, t-belt, water pump, injector, etc. time

[sunrk]

Just yesterday driving into work.... 700 k km's in 31 years of life since the vehicle was made by Toyota.

The t-belt warning light came on as expected to remind me it needs to be done. Is there a contact on the left most number wheel of the odometer that activates the light? I'm aware of the button to cancel it.



Doesn't show ever aspect in detail but it's quite good as a guide. I know one of the bits of casting for one of the small bolts for the t-belt cover is broken off on my motor.

Going to do the usual stuff - t-belt + tensioner along with water pump and t-stat then do the valve shims plus oil/filter and coolant changes. I have the proper tool to do the valve shims.

I've ordered a diesel compression tester kit. To check for blow-by, do I just take off the oil filler cap and look/feel for combustion gases at the filler opening when I start the engine from cold? I will replace the diesel injectors too since I have a full set of new genuine ones.

Re genuine parts to do t-belt, etc. I see the t-belt tensioner spring part number has two versions - is 90507-27001 and 90507-27003 interchangable? The tensioner also has two different part numbers - 13505-17010 and 13505-17011 and I wonder if they are also interchangable?

My 80 is a 3/92 build so the earlier part numbers apply to it. Do not remember if I had this same debate in 2016 with myself (or even here) when I last did the timing belt job. I did notice the pin that the timing tensioner spring hooks over doesn't change it's part number.

What seals should I look at replacing while I'm doing the t-belt and water pump work?

 

[roscoFJ73]

e genuine parts to do t-belt, etc. I see the t-belt tensioner spring part number has two versions - is 90507-27001 and 90507-27003 interchangable? The tensioner also has two different part numbers - 13505-17010 and 13505-17011 and I wonder if they are also interchangable?

Same part with a different number. It could just mean they were made in another factory. Beno would know.Those numbers are good for all markets.

 

[bj70bc]

blowby at the oil fill is not any real measure of blowby unless it smokes like an exhaust pipe out the fill port....

 

[mudgudgeon]

If blow by is bad, you'll see excess oil film in the intake tube after the PCV connection.

You can do a leak down test. Leak down / blow by same same.

Both are the result of worn rings or cylinder walls

 

[roscoFJ73]

What seals should I look at replacing while I'm doing the t-belt and water pump work?

Some kits come with the camshaft bearing seal. I did mine because it had a slight leak

 

[sunrk]

Due to circumstances I have not been able to get the parts to do the t-belt job. Odo is at 708 k km's now. I know the last t-belt change (done by me) was at 605 k km's. So yeah I'm about 3 k km's overdue.

Is that actually an issue? I know the Oyot spec is supposed to be every 100 k km's, and I intend to buy the parts soon based on finances. Haven't done the shim job either because I can't take the 80 out of use long enough (needs a day to cool off, a day to do the job, then if I have to get any different thickness shims there's time in that). I'm aware that as a 'bush job' you can just swap existing shims around to get the best set of clearances possible without sourcing extra shims once the current ones and existing clearances are measured.

There's a good Aussie place on Ebay selling new Toyota parts and they do sell t-bet kits including genuine water pump and seals as well as t-belt, tensioner and tensioner spring. Cost is around $600.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Pull the cover off and check the belt for cracks and visible wear - if it looks serviceable, run it until you have the change to replace.

 

[sunrk]

Not done yet - funds to acquire the parts are currently NLA (since paying off my house comes first). But here's a reference pic from 2016 when I last did the t-belt at 605 k km's. Pretty sure this was before I fitted the new belt (which is now due to be itself replaced).



Couple questions... I remember I had to 'invent' a method to lock the motor. I also remember I had to try about 4 times before I could get the new tensioner spring to go on. Videos on youtube about this job make it look easy (and it probably is if you do them every other day).

I don't recall if I replaced any seals but I think I did replace the top one at the camshaft. What seals *should* be replaced?

Besides also doing the water pump, t-stat, water hoses, etc. should anything else be addressed at this time?

Obviously I still haven't re-set the shims, or fitted the new set of injectors I've had for about 3 years just waiting around. Mainly because I couldn't take the 80 out of service longer than a day due to personal circumstances and my shiftwork.

 

[nickolai]

Tensioner spring trick:
Get a length of electrical wire out of your stash, 6mm square or whatever. You need a few meters. Tie a small loop in one end and hook it over the free end of the spring. Run the other out to the front of the truck and tie a loop in it big enough for your foot. Insert foot and use to pull on the wire to lengthen the spring so you can have your hands free to finesse it onto the hook. Sounds ridiculous but works.

 

[sunrk]

Great tip!

When people do the timing belt how often do they look at or do anything about the crank pulley and the front crank seal? If the crank pulley isn't behaving badly and there's no obvious oil leak my thought would be leave it alone, but on the flipside the motor is now approaching 709 k km's (yes I'm getting the t-belt kit soon!) and I've never had the crank pulley off or really paid much attention to the front crank seal.

I'm aware the torque for the crank pulley nut is some huge number like about 300 ft-lb. How do you lock the motor in order to be able to break free the nut, get the pulley off (whether replacing it or not), and replace the crank seal?

As an aside, the same sort of question applies for the camshaft seal. I recall I did replace that one at last t-belt change and I rigged up a really bogan quite dangerous setup using a shifting spanner on the hex section of the camshaft (valve cover off as I was also doing shims) and a ratchet strap hooked onto one of the front wheels. Here's the photos I took in 2016. This would have been when putting the crm pulley back on as it'd be fitted the other side to undo it's nut.





But this is not locking the motor proper - only the camshaft. So no good for removing the crank pulley.

 

[nickolai]

Crank seal and pulley - leave well enough alone. I'd wedge a breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter to loosen the nut. I'd imagine you might need the radiator out to get the pulley itself off - especially if its on there good and you need a puller.

Cam seal - you're procedure is pretty much what Mr T recommends. Personally i do them every time I change a timing belt. I also do the water pump too as its behind the seal plate so may as well while you're in there.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Inspect the rubber between the two parts of the crank pulley.
If it's showing signs of cracking, it's probably wise to replace it.
At this point, if it's original, the rubber in the harmonic balancer is 30 years old. It's gonna be rock hard and lost all flexibility.

Changing the water pump every 100k km is overkill IMO.
I've had several apart after 250k km+ on different vehicles and seen no sign of failure

 

[sunrk]

Re the crank pulley - you are probably right. I've owned the vehicle since 2011 and never touched it. Will try to have a good look. What is recommended to replace it? OEM or a Powerbond (supposed to be OEM equiv)?

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Re the crank pulley - you are probably right. I've owned the vehicle since 2011 and never touched it. Will try to have a good look. What is recommended to replace it? OEM or a Powerbond (supposed to be OEM equiv)?

I'd replace with OEM if possible. I've never found an aftermarket component with rubber in it that's as good as an OEM Toyota item.

 

[nickolai]

Inspect the rubber between the two parts of the crank pulley.
If it's showing signs of cracking, it's probably wise to replace it.
At this point, if it's original, the rubber in the harmonic balancer is 30 years old. It's gonna be rock hard and lost all flexibility.

Changing the water pump every 100k km is overkill IMO.
I've had several apart after 250k km+ on different vehicles and seen no sign of failure

I don't really agree on the water pump interval. For me it's more that there's only a few service reasons to be in the front of the engine far enough to get at the water pump. It's enough work needing to be in there every 100,000 for a t-belt, so may as well do the pump too - it's like $100 ish plus coolant, a few extra fasteners and a few minutes extra. It would really rip my undies to tear down far enough to do a t-belt and cam seal and then have to tear it all down again because a pump let go between belt changes.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I don't really agree on the water pump interval. For me it's more that there's only a few service reasons to be in the front of the engine far enough to get at the water pump. It's enough work needing to be in there every 100,000 for a t-belt, so may as well do the pump too - it's like $100 ish plus coolant, a few extra fasteners and a few minutes extra. It would really rip my undies to tear down far enough to do a t-belt and cam seal and then have to tear it all down again because a pump let go between belt changes.

I get your logic.

It comes down to making a personal judgement on probability of failure vs cost/ time, budget etc.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Water pump every second timing belt IMHO - if you aren't getting 200k km out of a water pump, something isn't right.

 

[nickolai]

Water pump every second timing belt IMHO - if you aren't getting 200k km out of a water pump, something isn't right.

I'll stick with 100,000 or 5 years. It's so easy while you're there.

 

[duece71]

If inspecting the water pump, it has to come off correct? If it’s off, why not replace for peace of mind? How many items have to be off to inspect the harmonic balancer?

 

[sunrk]

When the plate with the camhaft seal is taken off to remove/replace the seal, what is the correct sealant to use? Something like Permatex blue? There'd be a proper Threebond one that Toyota recommends. Ta.

Ordering parts right now - also getting new top/bottom rad hoses + a thermostat.