Yard Find (1 Viewer)

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Ken, It looks like the threaded portion of the shaft has sheared off, or somebody cut it off to remove the pulley, this is not normal, and there's no such thing as a push-on harmonic balancer as others have suggested. You are probably looking at a new intact crank shaft.

This is what you need

This is from a 1965 parts catalog for an F135:
CrankFJ401965.webp
 
Thanks Tom. This now raises new dramas. Will my water pump fit on the older motor, will my original fly wheel and clutch fit on the older motor, will the gearbox and transfer fit the older motor remembering that my original motor was a 1971 F155 and I now have a possibly 1964 F135 motor. Or do I just bite the bullet and see if I can sell off the F135 and get my F155 rebuilt.
 
This is from a 1965 parts catalog for an F135:
View attachment 966250

Tom, Ken, sorry about jumping the gun but I've never seen a push-on pulley, I'm stumped! How does this thing stay on there? Even if it's slightly tapered there's no way to keep it from coming loose. :(
 
No dramas Mike I am the same. As I said earlier some have said drill the end of the crank and put a bolt in there to hold it in place. Might just see if I can on sell the 135 and get my 155 completely rebuilt.
 
78fj40mg i was going to say the same thing about the stub being sheared off until i went and checked my 63 f135, i was thinking the cranks were the same all f motors. Does anybody know if a late f crank will fit a f135
At least were learning
 
No dramas Mike I am the same. As I said earlier some have said drill the end of the crank and put a bolt in there to hold it in place. Might just see if I can on sell the 135 and get my 155 completely rebuilt.

Ken, drilling the crank shaft may sound as a good measure, however, drilling may affect the strength and integrity of the shaft since it's no longer a solid rod.
 
Press fits (with woodruff keys) require skills that have largely died off in this day and age.

But I'd love to see the original F motor in there Ken...

Surely someone must have an early F135 "pulley- H/B combo" lying around..

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Even if the H/B bore has been somewhat flogged (from having run loose), Loctite products are simply amazing and usually the only real difficultly is in getting it to run true again (which is essential of course if you want to avoid your front seal from leaking)..

(ie. If you find an H/B and use Loctite on it, it'll probably need heat for any future removal efforts to be successful so it certainly won't vibrate loose.)

I know ... Just order a new H/B from Toyota ... Part number 13407-60010 DAMPER SUB-ASSY, CRANKSHAFT;)

But wait ......... ...Here's one I just found apparently in Romania :D:
http://vegaauto.com.ua/search/1340760010/TOYOTA.html

But you'd still need the pulley to rivet onto it....

And that's 13471-60010 PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT.

Hey!!! I think that's really still available from Toyota!

The rivets are 95121-00824 but maybe some other standard rivets would do the trick..

Ooops... I'm getting carried away with using the parts catalog and power of the Internet here I think...:redface:

But if anyone wants to know why I like Loctite products, well I use them all the time. Heck I just used some this morning to adapt this trimmer head I just bought off eBay so that it'll fit my early-80s 244RX Husqvarna brushcutter..
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It needed something turned up and pressed into the base and I just so happened to have that short bit of female-spline lying around (from an old anglehead I shattered by abusing it for many years) so I was able to do the perfect job with it! Now that new trimmer head looks just like a purpose-built Husqvarna 244RX product I reckon. (Well ... Not quite.. Whoever cut the thread did a pretty rough job... <Sigh>)
 
....But I'd love to see the original F motor in there Ken......

Oooops.

I've quickly scanned back over your thread Ken because it's become clear to me that I was getting confused.

So this vehicle is essentially a 1971 FJ40 (based on its Toyota VIN) but with quite a few earlier parts (such as older-style dash, ball-and-claw front axle, and shallower brake drums etc).

And Johnny (with his boundless Toyota documentation at his fingertips) reckons this "mix-and-match situation" is probably due to "non-conforming assembly-line practices in South Africa" (my wording choice) from where this vehicle apparently originated.

What's got me confused is that you've managed to get your hands on a replacement F-engine that just so happens to be older than every other part!

So I had developed the mistaken idea that your F135 (with its pressed-on harmonic-balancer and that you describe as your NEW engine) is the period-correct engine for this FJ40 whereas in fact it is the newer-style F-engine (with the thread and nut on the end of its crankshaft) that is period-correct.

As you were then............. I know you wouldn't have gone ahead without my approval ... And you now have it ....But it's strictly only for your contemplated action as detailed below :D:

......Might just see if I can on sell the 135 and get my 155 completely rebuilt.

:beer:

PS. You should take pity on old farts such as myself and put as much of your vehicle details as you can in your signature line (to help reduce our propensity for dropping into states-of-confusion)
 
Tom, you have it. It is a 1971 vehicle based on Engine and Frame numbers with as you said mixed matched parts in it. Dont really know why but that is what I now have to work with. The guess that it originated from South Africa is purely based on information I have been told by the PO who bought this vehicle from a wreckers back in about 1989 (I think). Given the tail lights I dont believe that it was an original Aussie vehicle.

You are correct with the engines now (sorry for not making it clearer). That is why I am looking at on selling the 135 and putting the 155 (period correct motor) back in fully rebuilt. My main aim is to keep this vehicle as original as possible and that is why I am now looking at rebuilding the 155 and putting it back in.

Thanks for you approval :worms:
 
Surely a decent head for the 155 is not too hard to source..? As for selling the F135, there's a bloke I know that's after an early motor, but he's in SA. Cameron Gregg, he's on here doing this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/australian-fj45v.820215/

He's very hard to get a hold of unless it benefits him, but Ken me old I'd like to see your 40 up and running, so I'm happy to pass on his details. PM him on here, or better yet, message him on Facebook. He's on one of those umpteen 40 pages we've all joined.
 
Cult45 thanks for that. Does he go under the name of Finalpig.
 
On here he's GreggC but on FB he's just his name.
 
Thanks mate. Just called him and as it looks like this has a 2F head he wasnt interested. Thanks again.
 
Ok mate no worries. I think a fully rebuilt early F will go easily.
 
Ken best thing to do would be to check if theres any rusted out 1974 fj45s about, that way you get the f155 with the better oil system. Might find a cheap runner that dosent need rebuilding
 
Thanks mate. I actually know of another 71 model sitting around which I have been told I can have. Trouble is it would take 4 men 4 days to clear the track into where this one is. I went up to look at it and we drove in as far as we could about 2klms then had to hike in for another 45mins just to get to it. Here is a link to another site where I posted pics. Let me know if you can see them. https://www.facebook.com/notes/australian-40-series-landcruisers/jades-sister/826323007387035
 
Thanks Mike looks like we have to do it
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the old fashion way then.
 

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