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HF2A - used 91-92, Center diff lock only
HF2A-V - 93-97, CDL and viscous coupler

You should be fine. I've never heard of any issues with either one.


Can't help with AA, though, sorry.
 
I guess I'm confused on why you would "need" an AWD case. Just because your front end doesn't have hubs doesn't mean you can't run a part-time t/c... Throw a NP205 behind your 203 and call it good. You are in a 55, so the offset rear won't be an issue and you will have all the strength you need. If you need a lower low-range, in your rear case, you can upgrade to 3:1 in the 205 at a later date. That seems like the simple and strong way to do it IMO.
 
Oh I didn't miss anything, it just still doesn't make sense. My 2005 Dodge Ram has a P/T TC without lockout hubs. So does my Dad's old '47 CJ-2A... So does every Jeep Cherokee and Wrangler. You don't need to run lockout hubs with a P/T case. So why do you want an AWD case? Don't tell me it's because you don't have lockouts on your front axle because that doesn't make any sense.

Now back to the original purpose of this thread: Nobody makes an adapter to put an 80-series T/C behind a 203. You can probably have one made, but I would guess that it would be more than $1k and a lot of time.

That being said, my recommendation would be to leave the front axle the way it is and run a 205 behind your 203. It would be cheap and strong and you will not have an issue with driveline angles with the correct driveshaft. If that is really a problem for you, you could run a Dana 18 or 20 behind the 203 but I would guess that your split case with the case savers would be stronger.
 
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How much lift are you going to run? I know from a fact that full time rigs esp. 80's with lots of lift will have driveline vibes at one piont or another.

I talked with a guy in OZ that said they put a lot of part-time kits in 80's running bigger lifts and big tires.
 
Lil'John said:
Bikerman, very roughly speaking, about 4-6 inches. It is a FJ55 SOA'd with stock springs/suspension setup.

Here is obligatory trailer shot:lol:

The tcase is going to be rotated such that the outputs are just a hair about the frame height... so basically as low as I can go without dragging the tcase.

The front axle pinion will be getting rotated upward and I'll be using a DC shaft... so that should take care of vibrations there... unless it is something inherent with the viscous coupler system that causes the vibration.

Again, this is just so fact gathering. If I decide it is a good route to take, it'll be probably 2 years before I get around to it.
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Why not tuck the t-case up and run DC driveshafts front and rear?

The t-case is a huge vulnerability point on the 80's as it hangs so low. Even as low as it hangs if you add a couple inches of lift (usually 3 or more) you need a DC driveshaft at least for the front. I'd be tempted to tuck it up in there and run DC front and rear.
 
Lil'John said:
The tcase will be VERY tucked up:

Attached shows how high up my tcase is compared to the above side shot of the bellypan. The outputs will come down another 2" or so. I miss clocked the holes in my NP203:rolleyes:
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Looks good then. I guess it just sounded lower to me. :idea:
 
Lil'John said:
If you have nothing to add to the original topic, please don't waste your time or effort trolling this thread... this is last reply I am making that isn't on topic. You are not adding anything worthwhile to this topic.
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Sorry for trying to figure out the method to your madness and voice less expensive and stronger alternatives. Good luck with your build. :cheers:

BTW, post up what you come up with. I know a lot of us 80 guys would love to be running dual cases and any little bit of info we can get on doing it helps.
 
Subscribing.

If you make this work, it will be a huge service to 80 owners everwhere.
 
Lil'John said:
I will definitely keep some documentation around if this goes anywhere.

However, I think most of what I find out would be useless to an actual 80 series due to space limitations. My understanding is 80s have an issue with the gas tank being in the way.

Thus even small doublers based upon the minitruck case were not feasible without a bunch of mods.

This space limitation plus dealing with axle issues also made using centered output transfercases problematic also.
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I would appreciate it! My 80 is quickly becoming a trailer queen, so I have no problem hacking up my gas tank and modifying the floor. The only doubler that is available for an 80 is out of Australia and it is very cost prohibitive. :bang:

Also, I want to appologize for the way I sounded in my above posts... It did not come across the way I ment it! That's what I get for reading/posting too quickly and while I'm frusterated at other things. :whoops: Again, I'm sorry and I wish you luck on a very cool project.:cheers:
 
I will take some measurement in the morning when it is lite. I have a t-case and a tranny apart, so I can do this easly.
 
For what it's worth i have a ford 203/205 doubler set-up that I will eventually put in my trail rig. 72' Bronco. The set-up is strong as **** but will be about a foot longer than the stock set-up. So long in fact that I will move the rear axle back about 8" to compensate.
This set-up with a 80 case would be extremely long as I'm sure you know. But the cool factor is up there, good luck. :cheers:

BTW The hardcore ford guys use Jeds' adapters. Nice guy, and will build anything you need. http://www.jedsmachining.com/index.html
 
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Im interested in what you find, I may be in a similar boat.

I dont mean to sidetrack, but what would be really sweet would be a part time/full time case, where you could run 2WD, 4WD or AWD with selectable hubs (which I know your not doing).
In calgary we have snow and ice a good part of the year, and dry pavement the rest.

If you do have a custom adapter made could you please document the specs, pricing and fabricators?
It might make it easier for others to be able to call a few places and mention a certain part, to get what your sorting out made.

Sweet 55 BTW!
 
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