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- Thread starter Lil'John
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Sweet, nice post. I really like seeing the detail, considering this on mine. Nice to see the detail and explanation, and I like the underside pics.
Thanks from a fellow pig owner, looking forward to progress!
Thanks from a fellow pig owner, looking forward to progress!
John,
Really appreciate your post. Having no body experience, this will be of great help. Having read Heather's previous thread and now following yours, I realize once you are commited to the project that you just have to start cutting out the cancer and deal with the cards that you have been dealt. Thanks, Dave
Really appreciate your post. Having no body experience, this will be of great help. Having read Heather's previous thread and now following yours, I realize once you are commited to the project that you just have to start cutting out the cancer and deal with the cards that you have been dealt. Thanks, Dave
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
I used 1 1/2 X 3 X 3/16" wall tube for mine, braced to the frame. Are you gonna keep this rocker guard independant of the frame - bracing? I left 1/2" of sheetmetal, just below the bottom of the door to weld to. I had to rebuild & modify the back corners of both areas just inside the rear doors too. You using 1/8" wall tubing for this? I only stitch welded the guards in quite a few places underneath cuz I kept blowing thru the floor sheetmetal. I used POR Patch to fill in the rest of the seam. That floor is sloped & ribbed so you'll need some type of filler besides weld mat'l. Can't wait to see more progress pics & lighten them up some.
Dude, great resource, as that is what i need to do to mine!
I bookmarked your page for future reference. thanks and mahalo bra!
I bookmarked your page for future reference. thanks and mahalo bra!
Great, great thread!
A much needed resource for Piggy owners.
My factory rockers are actually doing o-k. Did you take any pictures of the insides of your rockers after you cut them off? I wouldn't mind seeing the condition of them.
I guess the biggest thing I would like to see is where are they supposed to drain from?
My rockers have filled with water a few times (not sure where from) and when I was pointed down hill, they drained - not sure where from. Surprised me!
A much needed resource for Piggy owners.
My factory rockers are actually doing o-k. Did you take any pictures of the insides of your rockers after you cut them off? I wouldn't mind seeing the condition of them.
I guess the biggest thing I would like to see is where are they supposed to drain from?
My rockers have filled with water a few times (not sure where from) and when I was pointed down hill, they drained - not sure where from. Surprised me!
oem rockers have a drain hole at the back...i think there's supposed to be a rubber grommet in there, so you could just drill a hole and put a grommet in.
i'm getting ready to do this to the 76 (probably when hell freezes over) so i'm glad for this....i'm just worried about the setting on the welder going from thin sheetmetal to thick stock.
Wow, never even thought about that!
Nuclearlemon is right on the drain hole. Mine had rubber plugs but I don't recall which end
back by the rear tire
welding thin to thick -
I had to do this a fair amount on my Pig when I replaced a bunch of rusted sheet.
I made a puddle on the thick and pushed it onto the thin. That was the best way I found not to burn through.
I had to do this a fair amount on my Pig when I replaced a bunch of rusted sheet.
I made a puddle on the thick and pushed it onto the thin. That was the best way I found not to burn through.
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re: welding thick to thin...
as said a few times already, concentrate the heat on the thicker metal and let the puddle of weld just grab the sheet metal and you will be laughing!
as said a few times already, concentrate the heat on the thicker metal and let the puddle of weld just grab the sheet metal and you will be laughing!
great tips on welding!
Mahalo brudders!
Mahalo brudders!
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
<On the welding thinner to thicker, it is done all the time. My understanding is it is done doing a TON of spot welds more or less.
Don is doing all this work with a 220V mig and .035" wire>
That's the same setup I use. Those tons of spot welds will be a time, wire & welder gas killer, not to mention cleanup time - I've already attempted that route & changed to some stitch welds w/ a body filler. It'll be just as good
Don is doing all this work with a 220V mig and .035" wire>
That's the same setup I use. Those tons of spot welds will be a time, wire & welder gas killer, not to mention cleanup time - I've already attempted that route & changed to some stitch welds w/ a body filler. It'll be just as good
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
Hopefully Don wire wheeled & painted the insides of what remains of the rockers before he welded the new steel in place, that's what I did. I would NOT cut any new drainage holes as that'll allow crap inside them. Before you totally seal them, use compressed air on high volume to blow out anything left in there, from the B pillars inside the cab. Then, use your sealer of choice. Make sure those access cover holes for the door hinges stay blocked at all times
OMG, that is sweet. can you make me a set to weld into my fj55? pm me if you are interested and how much. i am serious. Perhaps a possible trade, i got a ton of fj55 parts?
Mahalo friend,
Mahalo friend,
Great thread , on my case I have to weld in the round tubing , like you did is just great looks very nice and clean job
Thanks Lil'John, i may try my hand at fabbing something like these.
Mahalo my brother
Mahalo my brother
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That looks fantastic. Has anyone ever done this on a 60?