I'm sure most mudders know, but this is a real common issue, torque 'em silly and check often!
wtf happened here. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter darmaduke
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Anything's possible Adam. My experience is that, when the first falls out, there is so much noise that you stop, immediately. The second doesn't get much of a chance to fail. Also, the inside of the rim is smooth, there isn't much for a loose caliper to snag on. I still say there is another factor involved. Either way it sucks. I agree 100%, check your nuts.
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I disagree and I'll tell you why. If you've checked the normal clearance between caliper and rim you'll see that once the second bolt sheared, there would be nothing keeping it from moving the 1/2" to contact the rim. Centrifugal force and gravity would make it seek the rim. Remember, the '93 on can't even run 15" wheels because of this clearance. Plus the backing plate being all smashed up by the now spinning caliper had to do some damage. Look at those photos carefully and you can see what happened.
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I agree totally, if both bolts were lost or sheared, the caliper is free to go with the rotor and would cause considerable damage. All I'm saying is that both mounting points are unlikely to fail so suddenly without some additional cause.
You got me to thinking(That's dangerous
). If someone had warped rotors and loose caliper bolts at he same time, they might not even notice the shudder that normally comes during braking with warped rotors. Because the normally firmly attached calipers are now, sort of floating on the caliper bolts and not transferring the shudder to the steering system. Also this additional vibration would speed up the loosening and falling out of these bolts. I wonder if the OP ought to have his rotors checked. Damn sure better check caliper bolts on the other side and rear if he has rear disks!You got me to thinking(That's dangerous
You're right, thinking is dangerous
I've actually had that problem, the loose caliper delays braking on that wheel and causes a pretty obvious brake pull.
- Thread starter
- #27
hi guys.
i definatly think that the bottom bolt worked it way out, then when I taped the brake on the highway, there was a little shudder, not much, just sort of a big wheel type shudder like happes if they hit a bit of a rut, then when i hit the brakes on the off ramp, things really went bad when i slowed down, all the bad sounds and shudders.... the rim is all scored from the sheild that got crumpled up. not the caliper, that was basicall in place, just on the wrong side. the wheel pulled it around. the top bolt is still there, sheared, the bottom mia.
i would have thought though that there would have been some indication of that bolt being lose. it does not sound like anyone else had any signs either. Good to know to check them too.
i was lucky the break line did not rip, once the break hit the control arm, it just acted like a regular break.
one the brite side, I have somthing to fix....
scott.
i definatly think that the bottom bolt worked it way out, then when I taped the brake on the highway, there was a little shudder, not much, just sort of a big wheel type shudder like happes if they hit a bit of a rut, then when i hit the brakes on the off ramp, things really went bad when i slowed down, all the bad sounds and shudders.... the rim is all scored from the sheild that got crumpled up. not the caliper, that was basicall in place, just on the wrong side. the wheel pulled it around. the top bolt is still there, sheared, the bottom mia.
i would have thought though that there would have been some indication of that bolt being lose. it does not sound like anyone else had any signs either. Good to know to check them too.
i was lucky the break line did not rip, once the break hit the control arm, it just acted like a regular break.
one the brite side, I have somthing to fix....
scott.
Way to stay positive!! 
