Wrenching Help in MD/DC/VA: CV Boot Replacement

[4Peanut]

2003 Land Cruiser
116,000 miles

Passenger side outer CV boot is torn at clamp. Driver side could probably be replaced too. I have never replaced CV boots before, and this is just beyond my DIY confidence level for a first attempt (even with all the great information here on 'MUD). Hopeful there is someone out there in the MD/DC/VA area that would like to help a fellow 'MUDer out. Compensation can take various forms and is negotiable.

I'm in the Frederick, MD, area (West of Baltimore, Northwest of D.C.) and am willing to drive an hour or so.

 

[pfran42]

I had virtually zero automotive mechanical experience when I did mine. As long as you have the correct arm-pullers for the bottom knuckle and the FSM, you will be fine.

 

[4Peanut]

...As long as you have the correct arm-pullers for the bottom knuckle and the FSM, you will be fine.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'd love to do this alongside someone that already has. Two dealers -- and even a local independent specializing in Toyotas -- want an insane amount of money. I've been reading every thread here related to CVs, and my courage is growing.

I do like the idea of putting the money I save towards a diff drop kit and new rear springs.

 

[pfran42]

Seriously, If you can follow directions, you can do it. It is very straight forward. The only issues were:

-Finding the correct-sized pitman arm pullers
-Remembering to mark all of the pressed-in parts (if you are re-building the axle)
-Taking care not to damage the new boots when placing the axle back into the front diff. (I used a wood block and hammer and cut my brand new boot).
-Having all available sizes for the spacing washer that goes on the outside of the hub flange as the size required varies according to the play you have when you put the hub back on.

Of all the medium difficulty+ jobs you could perform on the Land Cruiser, this is one of the most important. Once you have done it in the comfort of your garage, you will be better prepared should should ever have to do it in the field.

 

[00N8]

4peanut - Try "Belowdeckfab" I just hired Ryan to help me bleed my AHC and he did a great job at a very reasonable price. He operates a small mobile mechanic business in the NOVA area and may be able to help you.

Ryan Bascom                         On The Road Again Mobile Mechanic - Home

 

[4Peanut]

Try "Belowdeckfab" Ryan Bascom On The Road Again Mobile Mechanic

Thanks for the lead 00N8. I just sent Ryan an email.

 

[4Peanut]

Okay, so the more I read here the more I want to tackle this. I do have some basic 100 Series DIY experience under my belt (five tire rotations, oil/filter change, torsion bar adjustments, rear spring spacer install, MAF and TB cleaning, DVD override, DRL disable). I do wish the FSM was a little more detailed in the CV joint area.

I've read countless threads related to the CV joints, from simply replacing a band clamp to swapping a drive shaft assembly to rebooting. I may need a new vision prescription when I'm done.

A couple of questions:

1. Can someone suggest the right brand/size pitman arm puller?
2. Is a brass hammer and brass drift necessary (additional purchase)?
3. Page SA-25 of the FSM lists several non-reusable snap rings. Can these be reused?
4. Are the dust seal and dust cover removed when replacing the boots (see page SA-31 of the FSM)?
5. If I plan to install Slee's diff drop, should I install this before rebooting?

Any other tips or advice is much appreciated.

Brian

 

[pfran42]

Okay, so the more I read here the more I want to tackle this. I do have some basic 100 Series DIY experience under my belt (five tire rotations, oil/filter change, torsion bar adjustments, rear spring spacer install, MAF and TB cleaning, DVD override, DRL disable). I do wish the FSM was a little more detailed in the CV joint area.

I've read countless threads related to the CV joints, from simply replacing a band clamp to swapping a drive shaft assembly to rebooting. I may need a new vision prescription when I'm done.

A couple of questions:

1. Can someone suggest the right brand/size pitman arm puller?
2. Is a brass hammer and brass drift necessary (additional purchase)?
3. Page SA-25 of the FSM lists several non-reusable snap rings. Can these be reused?
4. Are the dust seal and dust cover removed when replacing the boots (see page SA-31 of the FSM)?
5. If I plan to install Slee's diff drop, should I install this before rebooting?

Any other tips or advice is much appreciated.

Brian

1. These are the ones that worked for me:

Lowers:

Performance Tool W80653 - Pulley Puller | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Uppers:

OEM/Pitman arm puller box (27016) | Pitman Arm Puller | AutoZone.com

Note: The lower A-arm requires skinny arm pullers to get between the wheel and the knuckle

2. No. You only need to remove the hub flanges on both sides if you break an axle and need to rig the front in order to limp back home.

3. These can be tricky b/c they are so stiff. If you have a good set of duck-billed snap-ring pliers you may be able to get them off and back on again.

External - Flat Tip Retaining Ring Pliers: Industrial Parts and Equipment Supplies

That said, I would not advise it. I bent both of mine getting them off. Also, once you rebuild your axle, sometimes the assembly goes back together in a manner where you end up with a tighter/looser gap than what you started with. You really want to get this part right b/c it can cause play at the wheel. Luckily, these are inexpensive items. Just go ahead and order one of each size (for each axle you plan on doing).

4. Not sure, but if you are talking about a component on the CV axle itself then I don't think so.

5. I would do it before or after as you will need a floor jack for both jobs. Diff drop is a 1 banana job.

Here are some good threads:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/547292-otc-pitman-arm-puller-upper-lower-bj.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/531915-tools-blown-cv-front-diff.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388534-cv-boots-replaced-directions.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/417664-cv-reboott-parts-tools-needed.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ller-one-cheap-pitman-puller-part-number.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/318753-cv-re-boot-lessons-learned.html

 

[4Peanut]

pfran, thanks for all the advice and links. I had not seen a few of those despite searching (the search function excludes "CV" in a search because it is too short).

BALL JOINTS: Is it necessary to pull both the upper and lower ball joints? I thought only the upper was necessary.

CONE WASHERS: If not servicing the hub, is it necessary to remove the cone washers? I should just be able to remove the grease cap to get to the snap ring holding the shaft to the hub, correct?

SNAP RINGS: Does anyone have the part numbers for these? The FSM does not list part numbers.

 

[agaisin]

pfran, thanks for all the advice and links. I had not seen a few of those despite searching (the search function excludes "CV" in a search because it is too short).

BALL JOINTS: Is it necessary to pull both the upper and lower ball joints? I thought only the upper was necessary.

CONE WASHERS: If not servicing the hub, is it necessary to remove the cone washers? I should just be able to remove the grease cap to get to the snap ring holding the shaft to the hub, correct?

SNAP RINGS: Does anyone have the part numbers for these? The FSM does not list part numbers.

I removed upper and lower ball joints as described in the fsm. However Summit_cruiser and others I think have only removed the upper and had enough clearance.

Cone washers only come off when servicing the hub/bearings.

snap ring part numbers:
90520-31005, T=2.8
90520-31006, T=2.6
90520-31007, T=2.4
90520-31008, T=2.2
90520-31009, T=2.0
90520-31010, T=1.8

Curious if anyone that's done the job a ton of times could chime in with most common sizes for snap rings? from my limted experience 1.8 to 2.2 have been used.

 

[pfran42]

Responses are in-line

pfran, thanks for all the advice and links. I had not seen a few of those despite searching (the search function excludes "CV" in a search because it is too short).

BALL JOINTS: Is it necessary to pull both the upper and lower ball joints? I thought only the upper was necessary.

Some say you can do it it however, I could not not get the axle out with just the top removed.

CONE WASHERS: If not servicing the hub, is it necessary to remove the cone washers? I should just be able to remove the grease cap to get to the snap ring holding the shaft to the hub, correct?

I thought about it and you are correct. You don't have to take the hub flange bolts out. I had broken an axle out on the trail and had to remove the hub flanges in order to get back home.

SNAP RINGS: Does anyone have the part numbers for these? The FSM does not list part numbers.

Hit up Beno. He knows everything about this job. He'll probably give you a good discount on the parts too!

 

[4Peanut]

pfran, thanks again for your help. agaisin, where in NOVA are you? Interested in helping a fellow 'MUDer out?

 

[agaisin]

pfran, thanks again for your help. agaisin, where in NOVA are you? Interested in helping a fellow 'MUDer out?

4Peanut - I'm ~10 minutes west of Reston. Depending on when/where I may be able to help - b/w sucky commute at work and kids at home, spare time has been hard to come by lately. I'll pm you.