Found a1998 cruiser with 216k have maint records back to 12/07 oil changed every 3to 5 thou. Timing belt and water pump changed at 185537 over all looks good. Would you take a chance at 8 grand
Would you
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for a 98 with that many miles not 8k.
offer $6K
That price actually makes pretty good sense as the T-Belt/WP were recently done. That is not to say you should not try to get something off the price.
All that goes out the window should there be rust present.
For instance, the above linked will soon need the TB/WP service which narrows the difference in price between the two.
All that goes out the window should there be rust present.
For instance, the above linked will soon need the TB/WP service which narrows the difference in price between the two.
Depends on the condition of the body and underside. If it's been in TX all it's life with no sign of rust and detailed service history then I would say it's priced accordingly. bctlex seemed to find a well cared for example for cheap, but now he's dealing with rust from a poorly installed windshield which can easily be a $1500 repair to do it right. Add in timing belt and WP and his $6K purchase is now close to $9K. Still a great price for a well sorted 100 series, but you usually get what you pay for.
@RND1. Totally agree . For me not just the condition of the body, but interior too. Mine was never been smoked (a deal breaker for me), leather is in good shape - soft, no rips, just some creases, small cracks, no evident of pet damages. Also mine has a pretty new head unit with GPS - I was going to replace the factory unit, so I saved some work and cost here. In the next few months, I am looking at 2-3K for rust issue, TB and WP, and replace shocks, bushings, flushing out all of the fluids in the car, etc to bring the car to my liking. Most of these will be free/cheap labor (me).
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@bctlex BTW, I bought my '03 for $18K and had to put another $3K into it too! Worth every penny, I love it!
Reconditioning costs should definitely be allocated when considering a 100 Series. A corollary to the extreme durability of the internals are rather expensive part pricing. Adjusted for inflation a 1999 LX470 costs almost $92,000 in today's Dollars. Thus, parts pricing are nothing like say a Corolla.
Just for an example, I purchased my 1999 LX in April 2013 with 70,000 miles for $13,500. It was a 2 owner Southern car in absurdly good condition.
The first order of business was having the 90k preformed due to an abundance of caution and I believe Toy/Lex recommend replacing the T-belt every 6 (5?) years regardless of miles. In addition, I flushed the AHC, transmission, and swapped out for a working OEM Nakamichi H/U. (tape deck was broken on mine which precluded using my iPhone)
In addition, to consumables such as brakes and tires.
I think all told it was approximately $3000.
Just for an example, I purchased my 1999 LX in April 2013 with 70,000 miles for $13,500. It was a 2 owner Southern car in absurdly good condition.
The first order of business was having the 90k preformed due to an abundance of caution and I believe Toy/Lex recommend replacing the T-belt every 6 (5?) years regardless of miles. In addition, I flushed the AHC, transmission, and swapped out for a working OEM Nakamichi H/U. (tape deck was broken on mine which precluded using my iPhone)
In addition, to consumables such as brakes and tires.
I think all told it was approximately $3000.
I bought my '98 two years ago for $17K. It had 72,000 miles on it. I probably paid about $1-2k more than i should but it was super clean. Afterwards i put another $2k into maintenance. Im happy i bought it though.
Well since I have a '98 I may as well chime in for reference. I bought it almost 2 years ago needing very little maintenance other than tires. It was at 135k and I paid $9.3k for it.
Well I might have paid $6,500 for the truck but I am still shelling out for it.
Radiator (ebay has reasonably priced units $100)
Heater Ts leaking ($20)
Inner and outer tie rod's had a ton of slop (done $400ish)
Rack is just beginning to leak ($500-$1,000)
Brake pads are new but it stops like s***. [Brake upgrade needed $400]
Stock suspension is shot (Justifiable lift kit time $1,000)
Timing belt, cam seals, etc ($650)
And finally, I will be addressing the terrifyingly weak front end with a TJM locker ($1,200 for pump, locker, air valves, etc)
The speakers are also old and just won't cut it ($300)
Buying a used vehicle has its disadvantages but I would not go back and change anything.
I love the feel, luxury, and space for my growing family.
Once it's up to snuff I'll throw some 285s, Icons, armor, and Marlin Crawler 3.116 low range gears on it and have a potent DD/trail rig.
They are just such an understated and robust platform.
Sent from my SM-G920P
Radiator (ebay has reasonably priced units $100)
Heater Ts leaking ($20)
Inner and outer tie rod's had a ton of slop (done $400ish)
Rack is just beginning to leak ($500-$1,000)
Brake pads are new but it stops like s***. [Brake upgrade needed $400]
Stock suspension is shot (Justifiable lift kit time $1,000)
Timing belt, cam seals, etc ($650)
And finally, I will be addressing the terrifyingly weak front end with a TJM locker ($1,200 for pump, locker, air valves, etc)
The speakers are also old and just won't cut it ($300)
Buying a used vehicle has its disadvantages but I would not go back and change anything.
I love the feel, luxury, and space for my growing family.
Once it's up to snuff I'll throw some 285s, Icons, armor, and Marlin Crawler 3.116 low range gears on it and have a potent DD/trail rig.
They are just such an understated and robust platform.
Sent from my SM-G920P
'99 sold recently on CL for SoCal, OC, Huntington Beach for $6.5k. 175k miles. TB done at 140+k.
If the owner won't negotiate the answer is take it at $8,000.00. Unless you can find a better deal???