Won't start or glow plug. Need electrical help please.

[RufusTheDufus]

Not to beat a dead horse, you should have ground from frame to engine to body to - batt post. I'd take a minute to check the continuity between all three. Parking lights work? Horn work? or is it just GP's and headlights?

I'd check resistance between these as well and not just continuity.

 

[TOBASH]

Lost Marbles, seems there is no power to fuse box, but I am getting the light on the tester to glow when I connect the 2 left most leads (of the 3 leads) on the glow plug relay .

Rufus, I will do as you say after I find why there is no power to fusebox but there is power to the glow plug relay.

Thanks everyone so far.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Lost Marbles, seems there is no power to fuse box, but I am getting the light on the tester to glow when I connect the 2 left most leads (of the 3 leads) on the glow plug relay .

The glow plug relay gets power through a different fusable link than the key switch and headlights. According to the diagram above the glow plug relay gets power on a brown wire (the rightmost fusable ink in the cluster of three in the diagram.) The key switch and headlights get power on a wire labeled "WL" (white and something?).

 

[lostmarbles]

The glow plug relay gets power through a different fusable link than the key switch and headlights. According to the diagram above the glow plug relay gets power on a brown wire (the rightmost fusable ink in the cluster of three in the diagram.) The key switch and headlights get power on a wire labeled "WL" (white and something?).

Correct.

But the Start Relay gets its power via the same fusible link as the headlights in that diagram.

And also, I don't trust such "detail" in the FSM wiring diagrams. For instance, my BJ40 has only 2 fusible links and not 3. (That's one reason why I often like to modify the FSM diagrams so they better represent the way my cruiser is ACTUALLY wired.)

 

[lostmarbles]

Lost Marbles, seems there is no power to fuse box, but I am getting the light on the tester to glow when I connect the 2 left most leads (of the 3 leads) on the glow plug relay .

Rufus, I will do as you say after I find why there is no power to fusebox but there is power to the glow plug relay.

Thanks everyone so far.

If there's no power to the fuse box then I'd triple-check (assuming you've already double-checked) that the juice is able to pass through your fusible links.

If it is getting through your fusible links, then check your ignition switch because that lies between them and the fusebox.



PS. I don't like probing with needle-like prongs through insulation because I believe it weakens the insulation. (I've never needed to do so yet on my cruiser.) So I'd advise just checking for voltage where you can get a thin meter-probe to hit some sort of terminal/connection.

(And as you've probably noticed - I also prefer a meter to using a test-lamp.)

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Lost Marbles, seems there is no power to fuse box, but I am getting the light on the tester to glow when I connect the 2 left most leads (of the 3 leads) on the glow plug relay .

FWIW, I think you might be using your tester wrong. When you use one of those lightbulb type testers to check for the presence of power you should have one end connected to ground and the piercing end probing for power on a wire. Connecting the tester on the 2 leads above just created a circuit. Yes, you confirmed that there is power to the glow plug relay but the better way would have been to probe one pin with the other end of the tester connected to ground or even directly to the negative side of the battery.

 

[cruisedeisel]

take the positive side off the battery and strike it quickly on the frame, body and engine. if it sparks on all 3. grounds are good, if not you have some grounding issues. it aint pretty but its quick and it brings out the redneck in you.

I have two grounds off of each battery, one from top post to body and one from side post to engine. works good for me.

 

[TOBASH]

take the positive side off the battery and strike it quickly on the frame, body and engine. if it sparks on all 3. grounds are good, if not you have some grounding issues. it aint pretty but its quick and it brings out the redneck in you.

I have two grounds off of each battery, one from top post to body and one from side post to engine. works good for me.

I did exactly that. Sparks everywhere, as well as melted metal. I am certain my main ground is good.

 

[blis]

I did exactly that. Sparks everywhere, as well as melted metal. I am certain my main ground is good.

Just check the ignition switch.. it decided to break on my hj61 and ta-dah, no power anywhere...

 

[TOBASH]

As far as the ignition switch:

Might I assume I just remove the plastic covers and dig in, or is there more?

Thanks

T

 

[TOBASH]

No power at any of the leads on the starter switch so


So so so...

There is no power somewhere between the starter switch and the fusible link.

Additionally, there IS power to 1/2 the ammeter. The side of the ammeter in the dashboard that is marked NEGATIVE.

I am a bit confused.

I am off this weekend.

I am seeing me, a lot of frustration, and a day of quality time under the dash in a cramped position.

T

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Do you have power on the far side of each fusible link? It certainly sounds like one is blown. You have power to the glow plug relay but not to the ignition switch. They are each on their own fusible links. Be sure you're testing both sides of each link. They are essentially fuses. You have to check both sides to be sure the power is still flowing through them.

Having power to one side of the ammeter is consistent with having one blown fusible link according to the diagrams above.

 

[TOBASH]

Yeah, but the fusible link and the wires past seem to carry current.

To be sure I will recheck, but I think I may ultimately re-splice bunches of wires.

I think I will create a fused box with slow blow fuses rather than use the stupid fusible link system. Either that or I will use a system with circuit breakers rather than fuses.

Do you have power on the far side of each fusible link? It certainly sounds like one is blown. You have power to the glow plug relay but not to the ignition switch. They are each on their own fusible links. Be sure you're testing both sides of each link. They are essentially fuses. You have to check both sides to be sure the power is still flowing through them.

Having power to one side of the ammeter is consistent with having one blown fusible link according to the diagrams above.

 

[lostmarbles]

The 5A ammeter fuses are there simply to protect the ammeter. (No "useful current" flows through your ammeter! In other words, that current flow is purely to make the ammeter work so you know whether your battery is being "charged" or "discharged".)

And the ammeter works off the voltage drop across one fusible link. In other words, one side of the ammeter is connected (through a 5A fuse) to one side of the fusible link whereas the other side of the ammeter is connected to the other side of the very same fusible link (through another 5A fuse). Higher current flow through that fusible link produces a higher voltage drop across it. And a higher voltage forces your ammeter needle to move further. And reversing the direction of current flow through that fusible link reverses the polarity of the voltage to make the ammeter needle go the other way.

Should that fusible link blow, all the current that should use it will want to start flowing through your ammeter. So it is inevitable that one of those 5A fuses will blow in sympathy with the fusible link blowing! (If those 5A fuses weren't there - your ammeter would rapidly be "toasted" in the event of the fusible link blowing.)

You say you get 12V one side of your ammeter but not the other Tobash. If true - this suggests that this key fusible link and one of the 5A fuses have indeed blown.

Make sense??????

 

[TOBASH]

She's Fixed!!!!!!!

She is fixed!!!

Strange problem.

Everything pointed to fusible link, yet fusible link was perfect (well I actually rebuilt part of it so now it is perfect). (I will be replacing that piece of crap with a fused unit that will be easy to deal with).

So I checked wire just 1 inch beyond fusible link, and it was perfect.

So I was in a bind.

Then it occurred to me to check the same wire after it entered the car interior firewall.

NO POWER!

So I used a set of alligator clip wires to bypass the suspicious wire and VOILA, the lights lit up.

I then used a 12 gauge wire to thieve power from the proximal good part of the wire and carry the power into the inside part of the wire.

Now I have lights, power and of course a starter.

One would have expected this to be an issue with the fusible link, but a careful search based on the excellent diagrams provided to me by you guys left only one conclusion.

It had to be a wire just past the fusible link, but just before the starter, etc...

It was the thick 12 gauge white wire with blue stripe.

I thank you all one and all.

As a side note, the leak I was experiencing was indeed due to the water pump, as per all of you guys on MUD.

Special thanks to DBLUgly who sold me the pump and got it to me super fast.

I now have a dry truck that starts.

I still have a Hell of a blow-by, but first things first I guess. I just wanna drive!

I will be out tonight!

Thanks to you all on MUD.

P.S. I just downloaded via a torrent the complete engine manual for b and 2b engines. It is around 600mb. If you need it let me know and we can figure out a way I might upload it to you.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

That's awesome. Glad your up and running again.

 

[TOBASH]

That's awesome. Glad your up and running again.

Well, I owe a lot of the thanks to you and Lost Marbles and everyone else.

THANK YOU!

This is just as much your victory as mine.

Best,

T

 

[lostmarbles]

That's awesome. Glad your up and running again.

x 2