Wobbly Rear View Mirror Repair (1 Viewer)

[azcruizer]

I finally got tired of seeing my passenger side rear view mirror wiggle on every bumpy road and decided to fix it. Like many others, one of the top two hanger tabs broke off of the mirror attachment/adjuster and resulted in only two of three mirror attachment points keeping the mirror attached and secure. I adapted a repair process from another MUD contributor using JB Weld and decided to take a few pictures to help out the other MUDers who are affected by this apparent weak spot in our otherwise robust vehicle.

Since this is my first time posting a lot of pics, be patient as I load them up on several successive posts (the only way I could figure out how to do it).

The mirror is removed by removing the attaching screw at the bottom of the rear view mirror housing (Pic 1) and disconnecting 3 wires from the adjuster. Pic 2 is the mirror out of the housing and Pic 3 shows the broken hanger tab.

 

[azcruizer]

To try to beef up the strength of the JB Weld, I add some reinforcing--a sewing pin bent and sized to fit in the middle of the soon to be poured hanger tab. I heated the pin to allow it to melt and be poked through the bottom of the hanger and clipped it to size. A more determined person might be able to get the pin melted into both sides of the broken hanger tab. I did not want to risk it.

 

[azcruizer]

Next I built the “forms” for the JB Weld to be poured into. I added some thin cardboard below the tab and used a 1x2 as a base to secure it. Rotating the mirror adjuster allows you to add tension and squeeze the cardboard between the hanger tab and the 1x2.

 

[azcruizer]

Next, I used a clothes pin to form the rough shape of the outside of the hanger tab. I glued the clothes pins in place using the first glue I found.

 

[azcruizer]

As the clothes pins are drying in place, it is time to prep the JB Weld. Follow the instructions and mix enough to fill in the area of the missing hanger tab. Allow the JB Weld to partially set up so it is still thin enough to flow into all the areas and adhere to the mirror adjuster, but not so runny that you won’t be able to keep it out of the area that needs to remain void. It will continue to flow down into the void for an hour or more, reducing the amount of JB Weld that forms the tab and filling the void. Continue to work with the JB Weld every 15 minutes or so as it sets up, to move the JB Weld out of the void and ensure there is sufficient JB Weld to form the tab. I found a wet toothpick is a good tool to use after the JB Weld begins to stiffen up.

 

[azcruizer]

Allow the JB Weld to set up for 12-15 hours per the instructions. Now it’s time to work the JB Weld into the shape you need.

Remove the clothes pins and cardboard. I found a sharp exacto knife worked well. I also used the exacto knife to form the rough shape of the hanger tab and then used a small rattail and triangular file to get the void of the tab into the shape required. I suppose a dremel tool would work well too.

 

[azcruizer]

Forgot the pictures on the last reply...

 

[azcruizer]

Finally, I used a wood rasp to shape the outside edges and flat surfaces of the hanger tab until they were the right shape to fit back into the mirror housing.

 

[azcruizer]

For the final adjustments to the hanger tab, I removed the mirror housing from the door by removing the 4 screws inside the housing and 1 screw from near the door. The housing can be easily removed, giving clear access to the metal mirror assembly where the mirror adjuster attaches.

 

[azcruizer]

Continue to shape the hanger tab with the rasp and files, until it fits into the hanger and sits flush against metal mirror assembly.

 

[azcruizer]

Reassemble the housing using the 5 screws you removed. Reattach the 3 wires into the adjuster and insert the mirror onto the metal mirror assembly. Attach using the screw through the bottom of the mirror housing. I would say this is a two banana job. It takes more patience than mechanical skill and just a few basic hand tools.

I just completed this repair this morning so I can’t comment yet on the durability of the repair, but I am sure it is better now than is was before I started. I’ll update the post some time in the future with how it holds up to the rough and rocky Arizona terrain.

 

[retrofive]

I still gotz to fix mine one day... one day LOL.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Very nice.

 

[MtnBikeAZ1]

azcruizer,

Great job! It took a lot of patience to work the JB Weld like that. Keep us posted on how it holds up.

 

[shfd739]

I like the reinforcing the rebuilt tab with the needle. Ill try that when I redo my driver side mirror soon. Fixed it last spring but its starting to wobble again.

 

[CowboyUp]

I like the reinforcing the rebuilt tab with the needle. Ill try that when I redo my driver side mirror soon. Fixed it last spring but its starting to wobble again.

Glue the mirror to the mirror frame with clear silicone and the problem is fixed. I did and I am happy!

 

[2manycruisers]

I haven't taken mine apart yet. Is it still adjustable if you do that?

Glue the mirror to the mirror frame with clear silicone and the problem is fixed. I did and I am happy!

 

[tromz]

I used epoxy on mine and it worked just fine....albeit durability is good for about a year...
Im back to the $.01 shim to iron out a slight wobble. Pull the penny out adjust...put it back

 

[cruiser concepts]

FYI,
These parts can be sourced from the 4runner the only differance is the plug housing which can easily be changed without splicing the wires. The wires/pins are the same the plug is differnt.

 

[PRAYN4U]

Which parts? (Cruiser Concepts)