Wiring ?'s (1 Viewer)

[ScarboDP]

Ok, I'm in the process of rewiring my 1969 40 via a VERY generic 12 circuit wiring harness from JTOutfitters. So far it I have been very pleased with the harness. One of the best things in my opinion that makes installation easier is that each colored wire is numbered and labeled what it is every four inches. However, since this is my first electrical wiring project ever I have a few things I'm not clear of.

The kit supplies one 14 gage wire to power the in dash lighting. On my new instrument cluster I'm using Autometer gauges and each gauge has it's own light. the power wires from each light is 20 gage. How can I connect 6 power wires into that one 14 gage wire? (Right now I have four gauges when I get enough money I will buy a speedo and tach so eventually there will be six)

I'm not real familiar with wiring connector's but are there any crimp type connectors that connect three wired together?

The wiper (mounted on the top of the windshield) has four wires coming from the wiper motor that ends in a plug. The old harness had four similar wires pluged in here. The new harness however provides one 16 gage wire for the wiper SWITCH what wires go to the wiper itself?

Thanks guys for any help you can provide. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go.

 

[Gumby]

THe first part of your question is easy. There are juction connctors and you can put multiple wires in one side of a crimp connector and they do make connectors that take three wires. My favorite is one made by 3M that has three holes in a row that are pierced by a steel clip. Overall, I hate crimp connectors and try to never use them. There are none on my 40 and I just removed the ones that were on my 80. Buy a good soldering iron and heat shrink tubing for something you want to keep.
The second part is a little more difficult to explain. Toyota switches the ground circuit on the w/s wiper motor. The power runs up to the motor on one wire, then two or three wires run back to the switch. Depending on which position the switch is in, the curcuit is then grounded and the motor works. It is the major stumbling block to using a GM column with the w/s wiper switch on the stalk.
One your harness, run the one wire up to the motor, then the other three go from the motor to the switch.

 

[Eternal]

The gumby is right on with the connectors. The snap downs are great for multiple wire connections and they look good and what is real nice is that when you are connecting into an already existing line you don't have to cut the wire it just snaps over. Don't go with crimp if you can avoid it cause you never really know if it is a good connection or not. HAving wires come apart when you finally get everything stuffed back into place is never a happy moment. Solder and shrink tubing are what I do on mine now. And it will never come apart and it looks real nice too.

Eternal

 

[ScarboDP]

Thanks guys for the reply, the guys at autozone told me to go to a car stereo place for a distribution block and the only one I found was glassy and very flashy for $50 I knew there was a cheaper way. As for the three connectors where can I get them I've looked extensively at Autozone (which has usually been quite impressive as to the parts and other little widgets they have had). Also, if Toy uses a different grounding technique like Gumby was talking about then does that mean that each component is not grounded by a simple wire heading to ground. I've tried to avoid crimp connectors as much as possible, luckily the only things I have had to attach the connectors to is the bullet connectors to attach to devices and all are in very readily accessible places.
One more question before I go, I read in a Haynes manual on Automotive Electricity, that you should not use Rosin Core solder for electrical connections? True? If so why not and what should I use?
Thanks for all the help guys

 

[Gumby]

The wiper motor is the only system on a LC that I can think of that switches the ground. It's just a little different in that the switch is on the other side of the motor. Power in, power out to the switch, ground after the switch.
I have always used rosen core. Acid core shouldn't be used with curcuit boards, but I don't know about regular old splices. I am not an electrical engineer by any means so YMMV.
The splice connectors I used to use were high-zoot ones from 3M with dialectric grease built in. I have not seen them in any store. We got them from the 3M supply guy that came to the shop. I saw them on the web-site, but lost the link. Probably not worth the trouble to order unless you do a lot of that kind of work, like we did when we were fixing a lot of semi trailer lights.

 

[woody]

See, now, I'm the opposite...I did all marine-grade heat shrink crimp connectors on my rig...entirely...and have yet to have one problem. PRO's: Easy to use, and can perform long-term repairs on the trail. Faster than solder, and IMO not as brittle a connection. CON's: pricey little buggers, anywhere from 60 cents each to a buck each....put 50 in yer rig and the money adds up quick...

For that connection, I had the same issue...my bootie-fab solution right now is a single cap-type crimp (white/clear) like found at Home Depot with some shrink tape to keep it moisture free.

 

[Sparky_Mark]

Re: Wiring ?'s - Solder

ScarboDP,
I disagree with the Haynes manual about not using rosin core solder. You should use rosin core solder or fluxless solder with flux applied separately (which is a pain). The rosin (or flux) acts as a cleaning agent for good flow of the solder. Have you ever welded dirty metal? It pops and spatters and it is difficult to get good penetration. With solder, it's almost the same thing, except it doesn't penetrate the wire - it bonds to it. You want the solder to wick up through both (or all) wires for a good electrical connection.
On that note, you should solder all of your crimp style connections as well. The reason you don't see solder on OEM connections is because they use automated tooling that guarantees a good electrical and mechanical connection - and they have to check them on a regular basis for quality control.
I agree with Eternal about insulation displacement (crimp style) splices. You cannot be sure of it's current load capability even if you check for continuity with a meter - they are really only good for a few amperes. It can be a source of future frustration.

Just my opinion...

Mark

 

[ScarboDP]

Thanks guys, answers to all my questions. Woody I know what your talking about, all my crimp connectors thus far I have gotten out at Bass Pro Shops. All switches are aluminum boat switches. With heat shrink tubing insulating the ends of the connectors.

Also, one more thing, how does the horn hook up to the button on the steering column? I found one single wire emitting from the steering column right near the firewall. Is that it?

Thanks again guys.

 

[Niner]

Like stated in a previous message the horn is grounded through the one wire that runs up the column. Power is run directly to the horn. As far as a junction block goes for the dash light issue, I would go to Radio shack and get one and use high quality crimp on connectors with the shrink tubing attached (Marine Style). Crimp style connectors are actually a better connection then a screw and pressure plate termination. This is only true when you use the proper crimper for the connector. I paid over $90 for a high quality crimper. I am a Electrical Controls engineer for a conveyor company. This was purchased for work so it is more justifiable, for me. Work has bought ones for communication cables for as much as $380.

BTW stripping the wire too deep can weaken your connection so the proper size stripper is also essential.

 

[Eternal]

For electrical stuff I have found that there is a local electronic supply place that sells wholesale to the repairers and I just went in and set up a cash account and man they hook me up. Their prices are 70-80% less than somewhere like radioshack or even the auto places. They are a great source for info and cool little ideas that I would have never thought of. Might be something to check out.

Later,

Eternal

 

[kruzrtek]

I am not quite an electrical engineer, but I can tell you that
the crimp style connectors with dielectric grease inserted into them or coated on the wires, provides a very good connection
and is also very vibration resistant. I am a technician on cruisers and other 4x4's and I promise you that the "piggy-backs", the connector that you lay on another wire and squeeze it closed, is a horrendous conector!!! It will cut a few strans of the wire as you install it, then the others will vibrate
and break soon after. They also allow moisture and other corrosion causing agents inside causing bad problems!!
I have had to repair countless FJ62 wagons that have all the
wiring in the left rear quarter panel. The wires corrode heavily
at the connectors, then the wires break. So people install
"piggybacks" as a quick fix and it is Immediately 10 times worse!!!
Go with non-insulated crimp connectors, Heat shrink tubing with the sealer inside, and get a good set of crimpers. Any
tool dealer, or electronics repair facility should have the good
kind. Any questions just PM me or e-mail. Would be really glad to help to prevent any future headaches!!