Wiring Rock Lights off running board wires help (1 Viewer)

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Jan 3, 2019
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Calgary, Alberta
So I can’t get a connection to fire these lights up and looking for some help.

this is what I have...

(insert photos)

I thought it would be as simple as connecting the wires and mounting the controller module and lights.

it is Monday - what am I missing?

thanks

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you setup just has fancy wire shielding. Its basically just 2 wires that you connect and go. Your system may need you to close the circuit loop to power it up.
 
Not sure how you are hooking it up but LED's are polarity sensitive. Also, use both wires as the Lexus light controller cuts the ground to turn the running boards off, not the positive. I figured this out because I grounded my lights and they stayed on. If you aren't sure which is positive vs negative, use a multi-meter and it will show a negative sign if you have the leads connected backwards.
 
I used four Rigid Rock Lights with a diffused beam mounted on mounts from Rago Fabrication. Had some Rough Country's before but they were a pencil/spot beam and therefore didn't light up the entire rocker area.

I used high quality butt joints connected to the OEM wires; and ran the wires through the frame to keep it clean and keeps them from getting snagged. I didn't run a switch and they light up the road/ parking lot when I open the doors just as the running boards did which I love. Off road I just keep the door on the first notch when crawling and they will illuminate up to 10 MPH before shutting off. I thought about running them through my Switch Pro but this works really well and I saved switches for other accessories. I put the same rock lights in the rear and front wired to the Switch Pro. I really love the set up.

BTW check your fuse...you could have blown it if the door was a jar and the wire touched the frame even slightly. If you don't have a tester just switch the two wires from a single light between the OEM wires. It shouldn't hurt anything. In fact my old school test light is just a tail light bulb with an alligator clip and a heavy sewing needle pushed in a wine cork...LOL. If it's hot it lights if not it doesn't. Pretty simple
 
I used high quality butt joints connected to the OEM wires; and ran the wires through the frame to keep it clean and keeps them from getting snagged. I didn't run a switch and they light up the road/ parking lot when I open the doors just as the running boards did which I love. Off road I just keep the door on the first notch when crawling and they will illuminate up to 10 MPH before shutting off. I thought about running them through my Switch Pro but this works really well and I saved switches for other accessories. I put the same rock lights in the rear and front wired to the Switch Pro. I really love the set up.

BTW check your fuse...you could have blown it if the door was a jar and the wire touched the frame even slightly. If you don't have a tester just switch the two wires from a single light between the OEM wires. It shouldn't hurt anything. In fact my old school test light is just a tail light bulb with an alligator clip and a heavy sewing needle pushed in a wine cork...LOL. If it's hot it lights if not it doesn't. Pretty simple
 
The OEM wires are also EXTREMELY TINY and hard to butt end together without solder. I ended up using the heat shrink butt ends with the solder in the middle to make mine stay.
 
Here's a weird one:

I wired up two KC cyclone LED to the factory wires(left & right sides). When I unlock the truck they come on, but when I get in and start the truck they stay on the whole time I'm driving. They will only turn off when I get out and lock the truck.

Any thoughts??
 
Here's a weird one:

I wired up two KC cyclone LED to the factory wires(left & right sides). When I unlock the truck they come on, but when I get in and start the truck they stay on the whole time I'm driving. They will only turn off when I get out and lock the truck.

Any thoughts??
Perhaps the door switch is acting up? Try keeping teh door open and cycling the door switch with your hand and see what happens. Also, did you use both chassis wires or did you make your own ground?
 
Perhaps the door switch is acting up? Try keeping teh door open and cycling the door switch with your hand and see what happens. Also, did you use both chassis wires or did you make your own ground?

The door switch would also cause the dome lights to be on so I don't believe that's the case. Also you can't lock the truck using the fob with a "door open".

I used both the OEM wires since Lexus uses the ground as the switch and not the +
I should add that I had some Amazon LEDs before the KCs and they worked as they should. Even dimmed on and off. Not sure whats with the quality KCs
 
The door switch would also cause the dome lights to be on so I don't believe that's the case. Also you can't lock the truck using the fob with a "door open".

I used both the OEM wires since Lexus uses the ground as the switch and not the +
I should add that I had some Amazon LEDs before the KCs and they worked as they should. Even dimmed on and off. Not sure whats with the quality KCs
Hey I just did this same exact install. Did you ever figure it out?
 
Hey I just did this same exact install. Did you ever figure it out?

Thanks for digging this thread up.

Yes, I have everything working perfectly now. It was simple and stupid. The KC Cyclone lights are little doughnut shapes and you mount them with a single bolt through the middle. They have red(+) and black(-) wires coming off them but I didn't realize the center "mounting hole" was also a ground. Because of the Lexus weird switched negative and constant power, the lights were just always on.
To fix this I used a smaller mounting bolt and put a plastic sleeve around it to keep it from grounding. They've been perfect ever since.
 
Thanks for digging this thread up.

Yes, I have everything working perfectly now. It was simple and stupid. The KC Cyclone lights are little doughnut shapes and you mount them with a single bolt through the middle. They have red(+) and black(-) wires coming off them but I didn't realize the center "mounting hole" was also a ground. Because of the Lexus weird switched negative and constant power, the lights were just always on.
To fix this I used a smaller mounting bolt and put a plastic sleeve around it to keep it from grounding. They've been perfect ever since.
Thanks for getting back to me. Makes total sense now....off to home depot i go.
 

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