Wiring Questions - BlueSea Fusebox

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Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Threads
30
Messages
115
Location
Dallas, TX
Okay. Here is some background information. I have a '88 Fj62 and am wanting to install a 6 slot BlueSea marine fusebox. I plan on running various electronics off of it (CB, PA Siren box, GPS, Lights, Etc). I need it to run off of a relay routed to an ignition wire to were I don't have to constantly flip a switch, and have the chance to leave something on accidentally. The BlueSea system is rated at 125Amps according to them. My wiring diagram is posted below and I would like Y'alls feedback. What + Wire would be optimal to run from the Battery to the Fuse panel (Keep in mind it will pass through either a fuse or circuit breaker, and then a relay before it hits the panel)? Next question, What Amp fuse do I want? Should I keep it as high as possible? or should I go low. Then next the relay, im assuming this is dependent on what size fuse I use, this being because I want the circuit to fail at the fuse, and not the relay or the wire. Sound right? I know finding the fuse and relay will be a challenge but I have found websites that carry fuses and relays that are in that 100-125 amp range rated for 12v.

My next question is where should I ground the main negative terminal coming off of the BlueSea box? To the frame? To the Battery?

Lastly, What size wire would be ideal to power these small accessories which come off of the Fusebox? Im guessing it depends on what it powers.

I would like the wire, Relay, and fuse to allow for as much power as is safe and possible, and I may even return the 6 slot for a 12 slot, so i want to be prepared for that.
image-2105069255.webp
 
Just to clarify I have read all the present threads covering this, and I couldn't find all the answering. Some day 6awg for the wire, but want to check to make sure
 
I have something similar set up in my '74 FJ40. I am not saying it is the most correct way. You will probably find different opinions.

I run 6AWG thru an 80amp fuse to this relay (pole #30). That relay is activated by an ignition-switched wire. From the relay (from pole #87), 6AWG to the Blue Sea 6 position fuse block. So now I have 6 fused slots that are switched on and off with the ignition, and my maximum simultaneous draw from the fuse block is around 75 amps.

For grounds, I ground my battery to the frame and the block, and then everything else to the frame and/or the block.
 
What size wire depends on what the length of the run is, including the ground wire, and how much voltage drop you can live with.

At higher currents I prefer manual reset breakers to fuses. Choose a value that is the sum of the max for the panel or the max for the wire/cable, which ever is lower.

Take the ground to the battery. This is more important to any radios than for much else.

Relays in this range of currents are usually called contactors or solenoids. At the high end gigavac.com has some really nice stuff. Probably more capacity than you need though.
 
Here is how I wired my FJ with the Blue Sea box. I split the 12 into two separately fed 6 circuit boxes:

5414877159_967fda8c05_b.jpg


You split it by using what would have been a ground lug on the box and splitting the bus bar with a dremel like this:

5416968957_2a119390a5_z.jpg


I feed each half with 8# wire. For something like a CB, 12 or 14# is ok. If you are going with Aux lighting, then #10 is fine.

This website:
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

Has one of the absolute best wire tutorials I have seen.
 
keep in mind the max current draw each port can handle and the total amount for the hole fuse box .. in my case 12 circuits .. it's 100amps total and 30 amps max each IIRC ..
 
what type of bulkhead connector are you guys using to come through the firewall? IF you are drilling holes or if not I assume you are punching holes through one of the main large OEM grommets?

also when you run the hot wire in for the above noted fuse block are you also running a ground back out to the battery or getting a ground inside the vehicle?
 
My FM radios get a dedicated battery power and ground wire. Everything else shares a second power wire and grounds to a common point under the dash.

There are bulkhead feed-thrus if you need to bring in a cable. I usually poke a hole in one of the grommets for 10ga. and smaller.
These are what I used for battery cables (moved the battery to the trunk) on my Valiant DD (lots more tidying to do):
IMG_0531.jpg
 
what type of bulkhead connector are you guys using to come through the firewall? IF you are drilling holes or if not I assume you are punching holes through one of the main large OEM grommets?

also when you run the hot wire in for the above noted fuse block are you also running a ground back out to the battery or getting a ground inside the vehicle?

In order to minimize cabling to the battery itself, I run another Blue Sea fuse block directly off the battery with single "0" cables:
SH150lg.jpg


This can take 6 AT fuses (up to 30amp each) and 4 AMI fuses (up to 200amp each). This is my main "hot" block for high amperage needs.

I power the other Blue Sea block (the one we've been talking about, that is ignition switched through a relay) from an 80amp fuse in the "hot" block. I also bring the ground back to this block.

My stock firewall wiring features were gone when I got my 40, but I go through one of the large holes where I put a rubber grommet.
 
well I want to do the wiring setup one time to power my cb and ham unit and was thinking about a bulkhead or bushing fitting like these or something similar to get through the firewall. I don't want to punch any more holes in the large wiring grommet located on the upper left and right of the firewall.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/841/=kuqppp
 
Your ham radio really wants power & ground direct from the battery with no shared loads. Your cb might as well, but I've never bothered. Everything else can come off whatever sort of load distribution panel you want.
 
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