Anyone have info on new wiring harnesses for an 1978 fj40(painless,ezwire etc.), planning on a GM style tilt steering wheel,autometer gauges and LED brake,tail and turn signal lights.Also have a chevy 383 motor with hei dist. I've heard of people using a chevy wiring harnesses;because it's a direct hook up to their steering column and the lights would be a four wire,not the Toyota five wire brake/turn signal lights. any info would be greatly helpful. thanks Moose
Wiring Harness Advise
- Thread starter Bigmoose
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That's funny. I'm making one now.
On my third bad 3 - 2 wire converter for the lights, grrr.
I used Trail Candy's Bezel and Autometer 6 gauge set. It has not been a smooth process and lot's of mod's are required, but the end product is well worth it.
I'm using a caddy tilt/tele column and have wired in the blinker into the existing wiring except that the converter issue has me boggled. I can't seem to ohm through any of them.
On my third bad 3 - 2 wire converter for the lights, grrr.
I used Trail Candy's Bezel and Autometer 6 gauge set. It has not been a smooth process and lot's of mod's are required, but the end product is well worth it.
I'm using a caddy tilt/tele column and have wired in the blinker into the existing wiring except that the converter issue has me boggled. I can't seem to ohm through any of them.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
maybe a CJ painless kit. would have the four wire for the combo turn/brake lights.
On the 3-2 converter, you will need a load(equivalent to 2 light bulbs) on the input side of the trailer brakelight converter, or a Hd turn flasher so it has its own load...
On the 3-2 converter, you will need a load(equivalent to 2 light bulbs) on the input side of the trailer brakelight converter, or a Hd turn flasher so it has its own load...
I ran a Painless kit in my 1980 FJ40 with a SBC 350, factory column, factory switches and Autometer instrumentation. On my last two projects I have used EZ Wiring harness which cost less than half of what a Painless kit costs. I like the Painless fuse panel over the EZ Wire panel but I can't justify the huge price difference.
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
Slight hijack...alumacruiser, is the EZ kit a good kit as far as installation? I've been leaning towards a Ron Francis harness. Just wondering. End hijack.
i just got my ez wire harness and i have been told by several wiring guys and a cruiser shop that the ez wiring has good quality wires and pretty much everything you need. I am having a shop do the wiring because i have no garage or place to keep my truck at ( in the middle of moving) but another thing that is really important when u rewire is keeping all the connector and using them on the new wiring harness.
sorry for the ramble, i have been loaded with info from all the places i have been to today talking about the wiring job, haha
good luck!
sorry for the ramble, i have been loaded with info from all the places i have been to today talking about the wiring job, haha
good luck!
The Ez kit and the Painless kits that I have used are both good kits but I can't justify the difference in price. I do like the Painless fuse panel better but other than that the two seem very similar. I have not tried any of the other brands out there so I can't comment on their quality. With both kits the instructions could use some improvements to put it mildly!
I bought a 78 harness from ebay for my 72 and went through it to be sure everything worked before installing it.
I went with the 78 because I used a 78 column and it made life a lot easier since most of the connectors and wires were the same. The tail lights werent that much fun, but for the most part it was straight forward.
I went with the 78 because I used a 78 column and it made life a lot easier since most of the connectors and wires were the same. The tail lights werent that much fun, but for the most part it was straight forward.
should be just the generic hot rod harness I believe
I just finished my rewire of my 1978 40. I used a Kwik wire kit. It is supposed to be between an ez wire and a painless kit. We added a few wires to make the lights work like they were supposed to from toyota. I did not want to use the trailer converter set up. Quality of the kit was good and the fuse block has a built in kill switch.
Mike
Mike
If you have the money, I highly recommend the American highway 15 series kit, runs around $320.
Yes I did. I talked to the guy that I bought it from and he recommended the 14. I had some extra stuff, but not to bad. The directions weren't that great either. We used a factory wiring diagram and their directions and made it work. We used all the plugs off the old wiring harness and made a nice clean job out of it. We mounted the fuse block in the glove box. I can get you some pictures if you would like me to email them to you.
Mike
Mike
X2 - I'm in the final stages of an install now, and am quite happy. TBI 350, AutoMeter gauges, ARB's, 8274, etc. Some mods required but all in all fairly easy.
I install painless 18 circuit wire looms on my 40's. Someone on my clubs mailing list actually asked what was needed to wire this up. I figure it might be helpful to the folks here. BTW Waytek wire is a great place to get all kinds of automotive wiring items. Waytek Wire : Electrical Wiring Supplies & Industrial Products
The painless harness makes it really easy. Every wire is labeled as to where it should go. The instructions are really easy to understand too. It also comes with all the insulated connectors you need, but they are not heat shrink. So I usually buy my own connectors.
List of stuff you need:
The process is:
List of stuff you need:
- Quality heat shrink butt connectors. Red, blue, and yellow. Lots of them.
- Quality heat shrink female and male spade connectors. Red, blue and yellow. About 15 of each size and gender.
- Quality heat shrink eyelet connectors. Red, blue and yellow.
- Heat gun.
- Quality automatic wire stripper. There are crappy ones out there, the ones that are all plastic where you put the cut end of the wire in the jaws. I can't really describe them and I don't have a picture right now. These things don't work and just make a mess. You want an all metal one that you lay the the wire into sideways. This will save you great deal of time and your hands won't be full of blisters and aching after doing a small amount of work.
- Quality regular wire stripper for the odds and ends.
- Quality ratcheting insulated connector crimper. Time and hand saver. Plus you know the crimp is good and will hold.
- Quality heat shrink in an assortment of diameters and lengths.
- An assortment of rubber grommets
- Tube of silicone
- Quality automotive wire loom in various diameters and lengths, NO ELECTRICAL TAPE.
- A digital multimeter with continuity/resistance test.
- Zip ties that match your wire loom color.
- Fully cushioned metal screw down clamps that fit over the wire looming.
- A CS-130 or CS-144 alternator. If you are going this far, you might as well go all the way and get some real power in your system.
- A decent wiring schematic for your truck, I get mine from the haynes manual.
The process is:
- Put your Painless fuse box down on the floor where you would want it to go in your Cruiser. I usually put mine in the cab on the firewall between the clutch pedal and the drivers side wall. It's a tight fit but it works. Arrange the wires to the places you want them to go in your Cruiser.
- Once you have have the wire routing figured out,
- Cut out the old harness and fuse box.
- Keep the connector pigtails for the switches and lights, label them.
- Mount the fuse box in place and start running the wires, putting it in the wire loom, using the grommets, screw down clamps, zip ties, silicone, heat shrink, butt connectors, etc. as you go as needed
Thanks for the great explanation. I am starting my rewire soon The po half redid the stock and his job was way jerry rigged. I hope i can get it all working.
