Wiring a Non-US Dizzy (1 Viewer)

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Ignition Coil with Internal Resistor -
Fits 1958-9/71 & Fits 9/71-8/87 with vacuum advance distributor - Comes with coil bracket

The coil I'm using.
Thanks Again everyone for your help.
Mat.
 
I would recommend the use of a ballast resistor . The term refers to an automobile engine component that lowers the supply voltage to the ignition system after the engine has been started. Because cranking the engine causes a very heavy load on the battery, the system voltage can drop quite low during cranking. To allow the engine to start, the ignition system must be designed to operate on this lower voltage. But once cranking is completed, the normal operating voltage is regained; this voltage would overload the ignition system. To avoid this problem, a ballast resistor is inserted in series with the supply voltage feeding the ignition system. Occasionally, this ballast resistor will fail and the classic symptom of this failure is that the engine runs while being cranked (while the resistor is bypassed) but stalls immediately when cranking ceases (and the resistor is re-connected in the circuit).
There are 2 things needed to use a ballast resistor.
1. a 6V coil
2. ballast bypass wiring from the ballast bypass terminal on the starter soleniod.

Since the vehicle in question is equipped w/ none of these, it wouldn't be of much use to the OP to hang a ballast resistor underhood.
:cheers:
 
Wired Tacho wire direct to (-) terminal on Coil.
Works like it should.

Thanks again to every one for their insight and help.

The whole process was easy and straight forward,
except that the shaft on the Aftermarket Non-US Distributor was 3.8 mm. longer than the original.
After 30 or 40 times in and out of the hole I decided to measure Old and New up with the calipers...
Bench grinder made quick work of that.
Truck's never run better.

Now for my next project....
Anyone know how to switch to a 6V system?

Mat.
 

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