Winch mounting in stock bumper (1 Viewer)

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Yeasterday as i changed out my old wire cable for synthetic rope and did some changes to the hawse/roller setup, since many people here have asked for pictures of my winch setup, i took the opportunity while the bumper was off anyway.

Ive used this setup for some years now, and had no issues.

Winch is a tabor 9k (great value), mounted on a 10mm steel plate, plate is bolted to front frame crossmember in the rear and a new crossmember made from 20x50mm bar in front.

There is plenty of room for a winch (of similar size) in this position, relay box can be hard to fit (unless you move it to somewhere else).
A UZJ might have more free space here.

Steel bumper "support" has been cut out for hawse/rollers, and reinforced, my bumper is higher from frame than stock due to bodylift, so on a stock vehicle the hawse will be higher on the steel support.

During easter my vigorous actions caused my winch cable to snap, so i used this as a good excuse to go and buy a synthetic rope. :clap:
I went for the MP superline. Although this rope is kind of expensive i think its worth it, the rope was great quality, and service from mp was good.

While i was at it i made a plastic cover between the radiator and winch, to protect the rope from heat, and the radiator from the rope (there is about 1.5" of space with drum full).
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Mounting of winchline, bumper and hook.
Only some minor finnish of the number plate bracket to do today...
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Old pics of rollers and how it all hides nicely behind the numberplate.
The smal flip covers on the sides hide the contact for the remote, and a main switch for the winch and the 12v nato outlet in the rear.
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Nice work, is that cut off switch wired from the battery or between the box and the winch lines? If so, whats the amperage draw? Im asking because I think my switch is not rated high enough.
 
Switch is between battery and relay box.
The one i use now is rated 500A continous, i used a 250A continous before but it only lasted a couple of pulls.

Most 12v winches in the sizes used for car self recovery, will draw between 4-500A on full load.
 
Got a link or any onto on the switch?
 
You can get it form anyone who sells stuff for boats, just be sure to get one that is rated at about 500A continous. :cheers:
 
That is a LOT of force to be put on only two bolts (the ones that attach the winch mount plate to that crossmember). The crossmember is also much skinnier than the winch plate which also adds to increasing the amount of force being applied to those bolts. There is a very good reason why a winch has four mounting bolts, to distribute the load. You have reduced that to two.

While you may have used it for years now without issues, that doesn't mean you have used it to its full winching capacity or even nearly maxed out the winch. The majority of the times i have used my winch it might have only been pulling at about 20-30% of its capacity.

The rest of the install looks really clean and well done.
 
Please...:flipoff2: Of course there are many many bolts, you just cant see them all on the picture...

2 bolts rear feet of winch and trough stock crossmember (long). M10
2 bolts front feet of winch and trough mounting plate. M10
2 bolts securing mounting plate to new crossmember. M14
4 bolts securing new crossmember to frame.M12
4 bolts securing bumper support to frame. M12

The weakest point is by far the housing of the winch.
 
Are there more than two bolts that attach the winch mounting plate to the crossmember?

I can't see them in the pictures. Yes i realize there are more bolts that connect the entire thing. A chain is also only as strong as its weakest link though.
 
Yes, there are two bolts on the new crossmember ( the ones you see clearly on the picture), and two going through the rear mounting holes of the winch, trough the mounting plate and stock crossmember. You can barely see them on the first picture, under the stock crossmember.
 
First drawing is from top, second in profile.
Red marks the bolts.
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Ah, okay that makes more sense now.

How do you like the Warn Tabor series winch?
 
For one it's great value :clap:
In Norway you find this winch priced slightly higher than the crappy china stuff, but about half the price of a warn m8000 or similar.
From what i understand this is an older warn design, wich is now marketed as the tabor series.
I've owned it for about five years now, it's not used very often, but from time to time, and it have taken some serious beating a couple of times... It has never let me down, strong and dependable as an ox.
 
Very cool build. I've always wanted a hidden winch, or at the very least one that shows the fairlead only. I'll be in the market for a winch that will fit in the months to come. I have welders/tools to handle most of the work, but might have a local shop help w/ the fab work to make sure it's strong enough. Your pics will give me a good starting point!
Random quesion, but if you were to anchor the rear hitch to a tree to keep your rig from sliding...would there be a concern with causing frame damage? Or is your set up and frame strong enough? How about with a snatch block?
I would hope I never need to anchor my 3 ton vehicle, but for a badly stuck friend coupled with 18k lbs of pulling power, I wonder what would give first??
 
I am interested on a bolt on application. I wish I was closer to Chesnee. I think if the price was right, less than 200 (guessing), then you could sell quite a few of these.

I thought taking the winch mounting bracket from northern tool and starting there.
 
I will not be building them for under $200.00
 

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