Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve (1 Viewer)

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hobbes

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I'm in the process of rehabbing the rear drum brakes on my 1974 FJ40. I've got disks on the front. I've only had one working brake cylinder on each rear drum. I'm assuming as I get everything up and working, I'm going to find I need a proportioning valve like everyone else. I've read the old threads on the Wilwood brake proportioning valve. The issue is their 10mm adjustable valve (PN 260-12627) takes a "bubble flare" vice a Toyota "inverted flare". No one seemed to be able to find a direct adapter, but that was several years ago. Anyone found a convenient solution yet?

Or conversely, I know @Racer65 makes an OEM styled one. By with my factory 1974 master, booster, rear drums, and 60 series calipers up front, I'm guessing the odds of the OEM 76-80 one working on my setup are random at best. Anyone try it? Plus I'd need a bracket, I'd think...

Thanks!

Amazon product ASIN B011B4UX5U
 
I'm using that Wilwood valve on mine, though I put it on when I put disc brakes on the rear (I have 4-wheel disc brakes now). I don't remember any particular problem flaring the lines for it; I have a decent quality flaring tool that does the two-stage double inverted flares.

I'm not crazy about the Wilwood unit though, even turned almost all the way off, my rear brakes still lock up before the front. I'm in the process of installing a new (FJ80 non-ABS) master cylinder, so I'll see how it does with that.

 
I’ve heard that issue on rear drums as well. That’s what makes me skeptical the OEM will do it.

Looks like you used an adapter from the line to the proportioner, no?
 
Looks like you used an adapter from the line to the proportioner, no?

Yeah, I guess so - to tell the truth, I put it on 8-9 years ago and I don't remember, sorry!
 
Mine was several years ago as well. I think it was this:
Plus a couple of these.
 
I used the Wilwood 260-12627 when I converted to rear discs. It looks like it is bubble flare - I could have sworn I found an inverted flare version but I have both types of flare tools - so I'm probably just not remembering correctly. My parts/restoration spreadsheet calls out that part number specifically. The Wilwood unit has been in the truck for about 5 years, (granted that's only about 2000mi) no problems.

I thought drum brakes required a residual valve (to hold some residual pressure in the line) and not a proportioning valve. On my truck I had to remove the 2lb residual valve from the rear brake circuit, and add a proportioning valve when moving from rear drums to rear discs.
 
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Back in the day when we sold rear disc brake conversions we had customers install both a Proportioning Valve and 2 lb. Residual Valve, only into the line going to the rear brakes. Drum brakes require 10 lbs. residual pressure to keep the shoes up to the brake drums, disc brakes require only 2 lbs. residual pressure to keep the pads up to the rotors. You would position the Proportioning Valve just down stream from the master cylinder, then position the 2 lb. Residual Valve immediately down stream from the Proportioning Valve (directional, don't install backwards). You would then adjust the Proportioning Valve to create the proper front-to-rear brake balance (close two 55% front braking to 45% rear braking).
 
Isn’t the residual valve function taken care of by the master cylinder? When you do a rear disc conversion, you need to swap out the original MC intended for rear drums to something like a FZJ80 MC designed for 4 wheel disc.
 
Isn’t the residual valve function taken care of by the master cylinder? When you do a rear disc conversion, you need to swap out the original MC intended for rear drums to something like a FZJ80 MC designed for 4 wheel disc.

When I installed mine I used a FJ60 dual-circuit master cylinder designed for front disk/rear drums on the 60-series. I just removed the residual valve from the rear circuit, and run the wilwood proportioning valve (though I just adjusted by feel - no idea what the proportions are). I haven’t had issues with the brakes so far, though I have noticed the tears start squeaking a bit after a few miles of stop and go driving. Haven’t bothered to investigate further yet.
 
Isn’t the residual valve function taken care of by the master cylinder? When you do a rear disc conversion, you need to swap out the original MC intended for rear drums to something like a FZJ80 MC designed for 4 wheel disc.
Yes, or if using any other Landcruiser master cylinder you would remove the stock 10 lb. residual valve from the master cylinder, and add a 2 lb. residual valve into the rear brake line. Hasn't this all been covered a zillion times in previous post?????
 
Yes, or if using any other Landcruiser master cylinder you would remove the stock 10 lb. residual valve from the master cylinder, and add a 2 lb. residual valve into the rear brake line. Hasn't this all been covered a zillion times in previous post?????

Well, there are always new people coming into the hobby. From my experience, there are plenty of folks who don’t connect the dots among the booster, MC, proportioning valve, and residual valve. As a vendor, I can’t imagine the liability if I tell a customer to take something out of a stock MC. It would certainly invalidate the warranty. Therefore, I only advise them to select the right MC based on the application.
 
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I have a 1974 master. To my knowledge I have no residual valves in it. At least, when I installed it I unscrewed the front circuit large nut and didn’t see anything in there.
 
I have a 1974 master. To my knowledge I have no residual valves in it. At least, when I installed it I unscrewed the front circuit large nut and didn’t see anything in there.
Is it an OEM master? To me, the best chance of achieving an expected result is to emulate what the factory has done: Use an OEM MC for ‘76-‘80, and add a prop valve. Together, these components are designed to handle the momentum transfer of a FJ40 based on factory spec. No need to play engineer.
 
I don't think so. I recall grabbing one from a local store in a pinch.
 
@hobbes were you able to find the correct adapter fittings for this proportioning valve? Im looking at using the same one? Thanks.
 
I was able to find these incase you are still looking.
M10 bubble to inverted flare

Screenshot_20201130-085309_eBay.jpg
 
Another choice for adapter fittings; McMaster Carr sells "Yor-Lock fittings that are 1,000 percent perfect for any Landcruiser brake line projects. You'd want the 1/8"NPT male fittings for the Prop Valve on one end, and the 3/16" (same as your 3mm Toyota brake lines) on the other end. These fittings are equivalent to double flaring, and rated at 9,000 psi, so no problem for your 1,000 psi brakes.
 
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