Will CDL dash light still come on at startup if indicator switch is bad? (1 Viewer)

[TeeDiggs]

*Resolved!* Will CDL dash light still come on at startup if indicator switch is bad?

Tomorrow I am going to try the paperclip short on the indicator switch that i've read, however just wanted to check real quick if I should be getting the CDL light upon startup regardless (as in the bulb itself working)? Either way the center isn't locking/knowing it's locked since F/R flash and I never get ABS light or CDL light when in low.

Just was curious if possibly the light could be burned out in addition to it also having another issue. From what I understand if it was just the light, I would still be able to at least physically lock the center?

Thank you! My appologies. I was hesitant to even ask since I know this has been beaten around, but still didn't seem to find if it should light up from a bulb perpective (at start up).

(Pic attached is at startup, ABS light but no CDL)

 

[scrowley]

I just went through all this just a couple days ago. My CDL does not come on with key in ACC position or at all unless center diff is actually locked. When you do paperclip test if you still dont get a light I would check: (in order)
-fuse
-apply 9v battery power to center diff actuator. plug is located on top of transfer case behind actuator. The two top pins are the ones to put power to. change polarity of 9v and it will move motor in opposite direction. Use alligator clips to test. Dont let leads touch (tricky part jambed under truck and reaching) If it doesnt move at all give it a couple taps with a hammer. Might be stuck from not being used forever. If this works your set if not next
-Have to test the trans computer (has a lot to do with lockers)
It is located in drivers side kick panel. It is barried behind other harnesses. I unplugged them to get at. It is black and about the size of a cig. pack. It has one plug only. It is heald on by one 10mm nut. The specific tests are found in the Toyota FSManual. Mine was burnt out on pin 6&7 and had no resistance on the continuity test. This was good for me for the 7pin mod. If you have to go this far I can explain or there is a million threads on this. Usually you would remove the 7th pin wire on this trans computer but with it burnt out I just left it in there.
-You should clean the indicator as well as it is not that hard and been known to go bad/get dirty. Mine tested bad but a good cleaning and cycling it open and closed while putting 9v power to it freed it back up. Make sure to clean around plug before taking out. The wrench you need is 1 1/8" or I think 27mm


I hope this helps you out. I learned everything to help me fix up my locker situation reading threads here on mud and using the factory manual for all electrical tests.

 

[TJ96TLC]

Same as above, do the paperclip test. I cleaned my sensor with WD40 and gasoline, dried it out and put it back in and it has worked flawless since.

 

[MAD MARK 80]

X2, do the paperclip test, easy and quick.

Mine had many bulbs burned out at cluster when I got truck so it could be just bulb, I swaped all to LED.

 

[TeeDiggs]

Thank you all. That does help, yes... Especially knowing that at least on one of yours it doesn't ever light up unless it is engaged.
Yeah I would like to switch to LEDs in the future at some point too.
Will be heading out there here in a little while

 

[TeeDiggs]

Hallelujah, Christmas came early!

Well I tried shorting the CDL indicator connector with one of the larger paperclips and nothing. Was a little bummed, and thought i'd check fuses again. All looked great. I went back and grabbed one of the small paperclips (probably has nothing to do with it), and worked it in again, this time on the other side of the prongs where there is a slightly smaller gap in between contact/plastic. BINGO. I was only able to get the front to lock at first, but took it out to a larger gravel area and was able to get the rear locking as well. Wow, never thought for once it wouldn't be too bad!

Well, the indicator would then be bad. I took the indicator out and surprisingly it looked great. Well lubed, moved very freely. (Photos were right off the truck) I went ahead and sprayed some WD40 on and worked it in and out about 30 times or so. (Any specific lube to use here?) Not having my usual stuff to work with at the moment, I got a 9V battery and basically used paperclips to connect it to the indicator prongs, and worked it back and forth while in a vise. I know next to nothing about electrical bits, so i'm not even sure if that was technically correct since I didn't have any aligator connectors and no meter.

Hooked it back up not expecting anything and sure enough, shifted into low and ABS/CDL come on nice and bright. What do ya know! Not sure if running voltage through it did it, or if it was the WD40, or just luck.

Thank you all who has helped. First time i've ever actually used my lockers despite owning it for over a year and been one of those "I need to set some time aside and troubleshoot".

 

[scrowley]

Believe it or not the 9v trick works.

Hallelujah, Christmas came early!

Well I tried shorting the CDL indicator connector with one of the larger paperclips and nothing. Was a little bummed, and thought i'd check fuses again. All looked great. I went back and grabbed one of the small paperclips (probably has nothing to do with it), and worked it in again, this time on the other side of the prongs where there is a slightly smaller gap in between contact/plastic. BINGO. I was only able to get the front to lock at first, but took it out to a larger gravel area and was able to get the rear locking as well. Wow, never thought for once it wouldn't be too bad!

Well, the indicator would then be bad. I took the indicator out and surprisingly it looked great. Well lubed, moved very freely. (Photos were right off the truck) I went ahead and sprayed some WD40 on and worked it in and out about 30 times or so. (Any specific lube to use here?) Not having my usual stuff to work with at the moment, I got a 9V battery and basically used paperclips to connect it to the indicator prongs, and worked it back and forth while in a vise. I know next to nothing about electrical bits, so i'm not even sure if that was technically correct since I didn't have any aligator connectors and no meter.

Hooked it back up not expecting anything and sure enough, shifted into low and ABS/CDL come on nice and bright. What do ya know! Not sure if running voltage through it did it, or if it was the WD40, or just luck.

Thank you all who has helped. First time i've ever actually used my lockers despite owning it for over a year and been one of those "I need to set some time aside and troubleshoot".

 

[TeeDiggs]

That it does, thank you so much Scrowley, your writeup helped tremendously.
Cheers, sir.

 

[scrowley]

Great you fixed it up with no stress. I just tested mine today on some trail and they all worked great.

 

[Bella1992]

Great you fixed it up with no stress. I just tested mine today on some trail and they all worked great.

I love Mud, every issue I have has been discussed, considered, and solutions provided! I am totally ignorant concerning electronics...how do we do the "paper clip short"? One member took the switch out and I believe I read in another post that they shorted it out without removing the problem switch.

Is it possible to just continually press the cdl dash switch to do the same thing? That is easier that lying under the truck and fishing around for the switch....

Mine is a factory locked 96 LX450. I used a hazard switch for the cdl...

 

[ppc]

The CDL indicator lights as a confirmation that the locking process has been completed sucessfuly. Pressing the CDL switch or shifting to low range is what starts the locking process. The paperclip method is used for debugging the lighting circuit making sure that part is correctly. Once that is confirmed then the sensor switch is the next probable point of failure in the indicator circuit.

 

[george_tlc]

If the sensor/switch on the xfer box is the issue, here's my writeup from a bunch of years ago describing the 9v battery 'cleaning':

http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/cdl.html

cheers,
george.

 

[Michiana4x4Toyotas]

When i engage my 4low i hear nothing from the transfer case (actuator cycling)and no cdl light illumintaes on my dash...upon wheeling i know my center diff isnt locked as it should in low range.....should i have someone engage it in 4low while i tap on the actuator with a hammer? my cruiser has 250k on it and i may be the first one to engage 4low...im thinking the actuators seized