ok so everyone knows that a 6 in lift makes the fjc more top heavy... but here is my theory and let me know what you think. here is the situation, you have a 6" lift with your wheel base widened by 2 in each tire. should it not feel (weight ratio) as if you were only on a 4" lift instead of a 6" lift. it might sound confusing cause im not a mathmagician or anything but it makes sense in my head
Wider wheel base and top heavy theory
- Thread starter brise27
- Start date
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If you want a 6" lift, just put one on. Just know that it won't do anything more for you than appearance...
and make you more proficient in changing cv axles.
The 6in lift wont even offer more ground clearence because you still have the drop down bracket, they FJ is wide enough anyways pushing out the wheels and tires will only make it more difficult to squeeze it through trails.
yep.....3" lift is optimal for the FJ Cruiser in my opinion no matter the terrain or obstacles with 33 or 35 tires...players choice.
The general rule is from what I remember is for every 1" up go .25" out.......
So in theory a 6" lift requires 1.5" wider stance.......
I have never put this to the test, but I do know my 3" lift and 35" tires with a 1.5" spacers at each corner seems to handle pretty well with no more of a roll rate then a stock truck.
One last note on this is that the theory is designed for OEM equipment to be installed...... once you add bumpers and other items all things change.
So in theory a 6" lift requires 1.5" wider stance.......
I have never put this to the test, but I do know my 3" lift and 35" tires with a 1.5" spacers at each corner seems to handle pretty well with no more of a roll rate then a stock truck.
One last note on this is that the theory is designed for OEM equipment to be installed...... once you add bumpers and other items all things change.
woooody
el Jefe
My feeling is that 3" lift seems to work best. If you want to run 35's, do a SAC (Solid Axle Conversion). the 6" lift seems to cause a lot of problems.
The 3" lifted FJCs have run Rubicon just fine, albeit with a bit of rock stacking.
The 3" lifted FJCs have run Rubicon just fine, albeit with a bit of rock stacking.
You definitely absolutely positively have more clearance with the 6" lift under the body, Yes the drop bracket is the same clearance as the 3" lift (actually it's a bit more) in the front but past that there is much more clearance.
Now some people will argue this till they are blue in the face and maybe they are right, I have had both 3" and 6" on my rig, done the same trails with both and definitely clear more obstacles without scraping, banging or stopping because of clearance with the 6" lift. By properly placing the tires on the obstacle to keep the drop bracket from hitting you have a much better chance of clearing the obstacle under the body with the extra 3" under the body.
Personally I have found that I can go places that an FJC with a 3" cannot, Yes they can possibly change the line and make it but I have found that the 6" lift makes clearing rocks, ledges etc. easier on you and your rig.
However,
You will find yourself breaking more cv axles and bending more tierods, Now I do not know if this is because the 6" lift puts more stress on it's parts or that I am just trying harder lines, bigger rocks and taller ledges or that maybe I am nuts and just imagining it.
With 1.5" spacers and 6" lift I have buried the inclometer well past the line and the only issue was unclenching my butt,
Good luck
Now some people will argue this till they are blue in the face and maybe they are right, I have had both 3" and 6" on my rig, done the same trails with both and definitely clear more obstacles without scraping, banging or stopping because of clearance with the 6" lift. By properly placing the tires on the obstacle to keep the drop bracket from hitting you have a much better chance of clearing the obstacle under the body with the extra 3" under the body.
Personally I have found that I can go places that an FJC with a 3" cannot, Yes they can possibly change the line and make it but I have found that the 6" lift makes clearing rocks, ledges etc. easier on you and your rig.
However,
You will find yourself breaking more cv axles and bending more tierods, Now I do not know if this is because the 6" lift puts more stress on it's parts or that I am just trying harder lines, bigger rocks and taller ledges or that maybe I am nuts and just imagining it.
With 1.5" spacers and 6" lift I have buried the inclometer well past the line and the only issue was unclenching my butt,
Good luck
I beg to differ.
The rigs I've seen with the drop diff brackets create less than 11" of unprotected (as in no skid plate) clearance where my rig has 14" at the front bend of the Budbuilt skid plates...
The rigs I've seen with the drop diff brackets create less than 11" of unprotected (as in no skid plate) clearance where my rig has 14" at the front bend of the Budbuilt skid plates...
I agree that the 6" lift will give more clearance, but only to chasis-mounted components (bumpers, transfer case, sliders, gas tank, etc.). That goes a long way on hard core trails. It's the added tire size that increases clearance to lower drive train components (bracket, diff, rear shock mounts, etc.). As for center of gravity, the ratio approach is simplistic (but still has application here). That's for standing still, or static effects, which should also include weight of people and placement of gear in the rig (bigger/heavier tires can help here). The fact that you move when wheeling brings into the mix a variety of other dynamic effects, like tire inflation, shock adsorption/rebound, and speed in general. If really concerned, I've seen a 40 with on-the-fly adjustable air shocks. That can change your static geometry when you're feeling tippy on a particular rock in a huge way. If you have money for these fancy add-ons, give that a try.
