Why no alternative to "L" shocks?

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How so? I mean I know Slee makes a great product no questions.

I added more detail to my earlier post. I am really just postulating here b/c this is the first I have seen/heard of them, but from the picture and the description it looks like they offer a few things the others do not. Truth be told, it all comes down to how they perform in the real world and until we start getting feedback from people running them on 100s, we are all just looking a pictures, reading specs and making assumptions.
 
I believe so. That is totally in-line with the current competition and Slee's appear to be better optimized for fitment, serviceability and tuning. If you look at the part of the shock body where the reservoir pops out, it is lower down on the shock body than with other manufacturers. This addresses the issue I had with the very tight tolerances against the brake lines (on the driver's side) and the springs. I also like the removable set screws for dampening. Don't get me wrong, I love my Kings. Its just nice to see someone make a shock the looks like it was well thought out for the 100s.

I added more detail to my earlier post. I am really just postulating here b/c this is the first I have seen/heard of them, but from the picture and the description it looks like they offer a few things the others do not. Truth be told, it all comes down to how they perform in the real world and until we start getting feedback from people running them on 100s, we are all just looking a pictures, reading specs and making assumptions.

Gotcha! I know Slee will put out a well thought out product. They always do. I think the serviceability and tuning on currently available higher end shocks (King, Radflo, Fox) is pretty easy. So, I dont think Slee will reinvent the wheel here. Although, I would love to see some one come out with better on the fly adjustment... (Slee???). Both front and rear on our trucks are a really tight fit. While I think Piggy back looks cool, I have found my Radflo remotes to be just a tad too big. They either need a smaller remote for the rear, or the remote needs to be frame mounted vs. piggy back. The fronts on the Radflo are also larger than other remotes which has created some challenges with placement and rubbing.

I like the smaller piggy back style in the picture Slee posted for the rear (I think this is the the same you are thinking). I dont see it working in the front. However, knowing Slee and the products they put out, I am sure they have this sorted out and I would love to see it!

Cheers!
 
After looking at it again, I had it wrong. The piggy back actually starts at the bottom. I can't tell from the picture but it looks like it may also be a tight fit. I don't want assume anything and further confuse the issue. Maybe Christo can fill us in as to how much clearance there is.
 
I believe so. That is totally in-line with the current competition and Slee's appear to be better optimized for fitment, serviceability and tuning. If you look at the part of the shock body where the reservoir pops out, it is lower down on the shock body than with other manufacturers. This addresses the issue I had with the very tight tolerances against the brake lines (on the driver's side) and the springs. I also like the removable set screws for dampening. Don't get me wrong, I love my Kings. Its just nice to see someone make a shock the looks like it was well thought out for the 100s.

The shocks were designed for the 100. Some features are:

Reservoir inlet is on the bottom of the shock body. This enables the fluid that is displaced by the shock shaft to travel directly to the reservoir and not through the valve stack. It is easier to tune the shock this was as well.

There are also some features in the shocks that are unique to these shocks.

7075 billet alloy hard coat anodized piston same part used in race shock

Piston features a high temperature viton o-ring with an Teflon coated wear band

Stainless steel shim limiters and flex nut washers

7/8" dia 17-4 stainless steel shock shaft

Reservoir piston features a high temperature viton o-ring

We did not use a heim style joint on the bottom of the rear shock. It uses a stock style bushing for easy replacement and requires less maintenance.

We are looking to have the first production ones in about 3 weeks.
 
What is so special about this L shock? Maybe because I come from years of building rockcrawling jeeps, but we built the suspension and measured for shocks and ordered what fits.

Nothing magical about them.

It is my understanding that for the time being they provide the longest range of motion for the rear axle from a readily available shock here in the US. They gain a bunch in extended length (over stock), and give up some in compressed length--but net-net, they end up providing longer travel.

So in a quest for maximal rear articulation, without most substantive suspension mods, they seem like an interesting solution...
 
What is so special about this L shock? Maybe because I come from years of building rockcrawling jeeps, but we built the suspension and measured for shocks and ordered what fits.

simple really, add a half inch spacer to the rear bump stops and gain 2 additional inches of travel to the rear suspension compared to the normal OME 100 shocks. (2.5 inches of drop but you lose a half inch on the up travel from the spacer)
 
what are the compressed and extended measurements of the shock?

I'll be honest, I have yet to change the shocks in my truck but couldn't one just use a post to eye converter for the top and use any shocks that fit? That was the solution for the front shocks in wranglers.
 
The Kings we offer are longer than std ome at 25.2", but not as long as "L's" They are just long enough to keep coil captive and not allow the sway-bar to hit the shock body. If you feel that you would like longer shocks whatever reason, they can be built to whatever length you like. To run a longer shock with this massive bore, you need swaybar extensions and coils tall enough to stay captive at full droop. Same would go for the radflo's. So you dont need to "dream" of it. Just call with credit card:)

I've been looking around at various shock options, and have begun to wonder why is it that there are no real alternatives to the "L" shock in terms of it's compressed/extended lengths?

In specific, I was hoping to find a "high-end" radflo/king etc. shock that would endure and provide a great ride, while at the same time having the range of motion afforded by the "L" shock.

In the front this seems like a less of an issue as many shocks could satisfy the range or motion that is limited by other components...

Still dreaming of my remote reservoir 2.5" rebuildable "L" shock.

:D
 
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justdifferentials said:
The Kings we offer are longer than std ome at 25.2", but not as long as "L's" They are just long enough to keep coil captive and not allow the sway-bar to hit the shock body. If you feel that you would like longer shocks whatever reason, they can be built to whatever length you like. To run a longer shock with this massive bore, you need swaybar extensions and coils tall enough to stay captive at full droop. Same would go for the radflo's. So you dont need to "dream" of it. Just call with credit card:)

Any fixes to keep the sway bar off the shock? I'd like to figure it out.

Thanks
 
lol. I ran without a front for a few months when I was having issues. At the speeds I travel I wouldn't dare remove the rear.

I hear you! I still dream of a quick disconnect for our sway bars. I have heard of people that run the higher end shocks being able to completely remove the sway bar. But, again like you, I love hitting 50-60 mph while running the desert washes and not sure I would even think of doing it without the sway bar connected.
 
To run a longer shock with this massive bore, you need swaybar extensions and coils tall enough to stay captive at full droop. Same would go for the radflo's. So you dont need to "dream" of it. Just call with credit card:)

Does anyone sell longer coils that would work with the 100, and stay seated with a longer shock like "L"'s?
 
Do the rear sway bar extension help with this? or is the interference different?

I have not noticed a difference. I am running the 80 series extended links. It is still very tight no matter what. If you are not running a remote res shock it doesn't really matter. If you are and it is run piggy back it is very tight in there. If I were to do it all again and had a choice, I would probably recommend a remote mounted to the frame cross member behind the gas tank. However, as I noted before I am running the Radflo 2.5's and the remote seems to be a bit longer than the other options out there. BTW.. They are AMAZING off-road at high speed! With that said... I have not spent time looking in this area to see what other interference there may be. But I suspect it would be much easier... Perhaps Slee knows. IMHO the rear either needs to be a short remote res riding pretty high up towards the body, mounted as described above, or the best option IMHO modified to run behind the axle like Spresso did years ago. I think this is the best option because after only a couple of trips mine are taking a beating from stuff getting kicked up from the front tires (does that make sense???? maybe too many bourbons....). The behind the axle mount seems to provide more protection.....
 
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