I don’t consider boots going out a failure. It’s cheap and you can drive home. Now, losing the front diff when you’re a 6 hour hike to the next human, that’s a failure.
Why 35"?
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trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I see you have F/R lockers, did you break your front diff before the lockers?
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Over here on the east coast the difference between 33 and 35 will keep you from running some trails. Diffing out is like hitting a brick wall. It stops you cold. With a true 35 you clear. Simple as that.
Someone didn’t have the right tools onboard to remove flanges and a driveshaft I presume.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
This.
The crew I wheel with definitely stepped it up in difficulty this year and the extra traction gained from a taller tire is huge. Someone in here likened it to mountain bikes using 29" tires these days, this is the perfect example. It gives the tire a much shallower approach in hopping over things. If you get hung up and start spinning wheels on a rock face that little bit of gained ability to gain momentum really moves the needle. Larger tires also equal more sidewall all things being equal. When you get in the tight stuff rolling a bead or pinching a tire is a real risk, and more sidewall helps mitigate some of this risk.
Also, while I think regearing would be beneficial, it is absolutely not essential. I have 3 years and probably 40k on my 35s and it scoots around just fine and gets pretty good mileage to boot. My trip to CO this summer my highway stints I hand calculated about 15mpg. I plan to do the 10% underdrive in my transfer case this winter, for what its worth, which would put me at about a 4.73 effective ratio. 3 years on the 4.30s though have been fine. It seems to be the guys that run 33's and use this as their logic for not running 35's are the ones that promote this theory.
If you don't want to, or feel like you don't need to run 35's then don't, but my experience is that it made a big difference in low traction conditions.
BINGO!!!
Yes.
The cat didn’t come out because I forgot my brass hammer. The first recovery truck also got stuck in the shale. This trail needed 4wd to get both in and out.
As Adam Savage says, every tool is a hammer. Haha glad you got rescued.
That's really interesting.
I'm guessing you have good open road manners with 35s and can do a sudden lane change at high speed without being frightened..... which is awesome., but contrary to my extremely limited experience with the taller tyres.
Are yours 16 inch diameter rims or something bigger? I tried 34.6(?) inch tyres on a 16inch rim and it was like driving on a boiled jellyfish. I hated it and was genuinely scared, but can imagine 35" tyres on an 18 inch rim would be a different beast (and the tyres I tested were both well and unevenly worn)
On my turbo diesel, manual gearbox 105 (on 33's) I would like a sixth gear. The engine 'feels' right at about 80-90kmph in 5th gear. It'd be a better open road tourer if the same revs could be had at 110kmph.
There's 5th gear upgrade kits available to achieve something like that rev change, but I'm not in the market for that upgrade at this point. First I need to do some rust removal.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Man I run 315/75r16s on mine and I have never had the boiled jellyfish feeling as you describe.there’s got to be more to that than just the simple fact of running 35s on a 16. I think you may have had some lingering suspension issues exacerbated by a larger tire. Are load range E 35s going to ride and handle like the 31” Michelin’s? Absolutely not, but I’m just saying your experience here is unique to you. I don’t daily my 100 anymore, but I do a 3,000 mile (mostly highway in terms of miles maybe 80%) trip and have no issues whatsoever with handling, keeping speeds of 70-80, etc.
Hell, I run 37s on 18s on my f250 daily and it’s got plenty of road feel. Really with my Carli suspension it handles dramatically better than stock. This is what leads me to believe you had a lingering suspension or steering rack issue.
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atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
I love that, going to keep that line in the back pocket!
I was I was installing new leafs in the 250 Last night. I had to unbolt one of the shocks so I ran the nut out. These Carli gas shocks have so much charge they apply a lot of pressure to that nut. I was already under the truck and didn’t have a hammer to push the bolt out….a 10” crescent wrench made quick work tapping it out
I agree with @krice118 AND @ga12r1 on this... in the western USA 33's get you just about anywhere a 100 should go but instagram. The 35 makes sense for the deep mud regions and the very hardest rocks are certainly made easier. Still running mine on 33's ... but ever tempted to go larger, probably on a different platform than IFS100.
Does anyone know which tools are required to do this in the field? I’ve got 360k miles on my front diff and it’s the earlier 2-pinion design. Until I get the funds or time to finally install the lockers and regear kit, I feel like I’m on borrowed time.
OTOH, I’ve really put this truck through it’s paces in the nearly 100k I’ve owned it. I doubt the PO ever took it on dirt roads, never mind anything remotely difficult, but it’s what I’ve learned to wheel in. Suffice to say, there’s been a learning curve. I have not always been gentle. God what an amazing truck she’s been, so forgiving...
That's quite encouraging as I would prefer a 315/75R16 (for both increased diff clearance and the increase in rolling circumference).
I'm not sure I have any steering issues (apart from a tiny leak out of the steering box) as the truck normally drives so well and I had the local mechanic check all the balljoints and bushes about two moths ago (it needed one b/j only), but you could be right and there's something under there with a bit of play or wear still.
I just put a set of new Maxxis Razr 285/75R16s on so won't need new tyres for another 18 months.
My 'bad' experience was a set of used and unevenly worn Khumo 315/75R16 on 16 x10 steel wheels (off a 79 series) to see if I wanted to make that change as I was ordering new tyres that day, The offset of the steel wheels may have been part of the issue, but after I fitted the big wheels I drove about 1,500 metres towards my destination before deciding to turn around and head back to put my old, smaller wheels/tyres back on. With the 315/75R1 I couldn't keep the vehicle in a straight line without constant steering wheel input. It was horrible! Swap back to the 16x8?) and worn 285s and she was back to being normal. Dunno. It was odd, but helped me decide to stay with the known size.
For the record: I live on remote Island so everything has to be ordered from mainland New Zealand and come to me either by ship (which can be more than a month delay) or by air (which is very expensive. Air freight on the 4 Maxxis tyres was 25% of the value of the tyres). Consequently it's very hard to return items that don't fit or don't work so I took a moderately conservative approach to the last tyre purchase
Next time it'll be 315s
IIRC 22mm lug wrench, 2 14mm box wrenches (driveshaft), 14mm socket and ratchet, snap ring pliers, and brass hammer.
Mine are on the stock 18s. I don’t think it’s the tires that are causing the issues you describe.
Also you can either buy a dummy drive flange by the 3D printing guy on here, or use some old metal ones that have been bored out to allow the front drive axles to stay stationary while the wheels rotate.
ran 34 no problem. loved it. decided to regear my LX470 so i went with 35. afterwards issue after issue.. CV axle snapped at least twice just from normal driving (and some towing)...
going back to 34 when this set of tires wear out
going back to 34 when this set of tires wear out
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Aftermarket CVs? OEM CV’s are pretty tough to break.
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