Who's running 315s?
- Thread starter macneill
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Adam R said:
Yes, what a waste of extra ARB sticker.....
Regards,
Well, here is my front diffirential gear that failed at Slick Rock Trail last month after forgetten to turn on center locker. 
Now ARB locker and regear is in place. ;p
Regards,
Now ARB locker and regear is in place. ;p
Regards,
Last edited:
Ouch, it's nice to HAVE to go to ARB lockers all around. 
stock 4.30 s
Do you still have your stock rear 4.30 gears? I could use a set
Do you still have your stock rear 4.30 gears? I could use a set
I have a set. Front and back.
what typically is the biggest you can fit under the 100 with a OME 2" lift??
Noah said:
33" (285R75/16) without rubbing or other mods (check stock running board mounted mud flaps?).
35" (315R75/16: M/TR...Toyo M/T are wider and may require more clearance mods) with slight rubbing at max articulation and clearance mods required (bumpers and running boards probably need to be trimmed or removed).
what other mods are we talking about here????? I want big tires....spressomon said:
Noah said:
To run 35" MT/R's (ask hoser about 35" Toyo M/T's) you will need to more than likely relieve a portion of the stock front bumper unless you are replacing the front bumper with an ARB or TJM, etc. You will need to trim the plastic bubble from the inner fender and fold the body seam over (see the thread I posted on this); you will either need to run a Slee rear bumper or similar or probably relieve the stock bumper for max articulation clearance. You will need to adjust the t-bars for 2.75" of lift to prevent the tire at max articulation from rubbing the upper inner fender/skirt; probably will need to run 3/4" or 1" wheel spacers up front. And of course the full OME lift (t-bars, shocks & rear springs). Add an upper rear frame mount bump stop (2.75" I think...Shotts or Darren can confirm this one) and ideally extend the rear sway bar by 50mm. And you will probably need to remove the stock running boards...
And of course a 4.88 conversion if you want the power curve of the engine and drivetrain to be stock like.
Some (not me) have had to slightly decrease the turn radius to keep the tires from rubbing at max turn...
Anything else I have forgotten?
hoser
SILVER Star
Spressomon covered most of it. Additionally, I had to trim some of the plastic that covers the windshield washer bottle on the drivers side fender well. I also had to position my Slee Sliders slightly more rearward than it was designed but this is LX specific.
Obviously, the 35" tire with the narrowest tread width will cause the least amount of interference. You might be able to get away with just 1/4" wheel spacers--just enough to get the inside part of the tire away from upper ball joint, frame and such.
Obviously, the 35" tire with the narrowest tread width will cause the least amount of interference. You might be able to get away with just 1/4" wheel spacers--just enough to get the inside part of the tire away from upper ball joint, frame and such.
sheesh.....looks like i will be sticking with 33's...although, i do plan on putting on ARB bumper and slee bumper...
spressomon said:
315's will work with a stock rear bumper and the spare even fits below without a hitch.
You should lower your rear bump stops by 2" or you'll rub a lot. You should add 2 10mm trim packs to each rear spring tops for more tire clearance and less rubbing.
This pic:
2.75 front
865 rear with 20mm packers
315's with 315 spare
2.75 front
865 rear with 20mm packers
315's with 315 spare
Me Too!
Yeah Me Too
Yeah Me Too
