Who has the most miles on their 100 with the fewest problems? (1 Viewer)

[don_bryant]

'99 with 147,000 miles

I've put 147,000 on my '99 with not a single problem. All I've ever changed was the fluids (Royal Purple) every 6,000 miles for the oil and every 20,000-25,000 for the differentials and drive shaft. Changed the pads and had the rotors turned a couple of times. Did the 90 K servicing at 100 K but skipped the water pump. Should of skipped the plugs too, I asked to see them and you could of wiped them off with you finger and they would've looked brand new. I put one K&N filter in it a couple of years ago. She just started to purrrr at about 120,000.

 

[Albi]

'03 with 32k miles

First post, only problem I've had is the lumbar support works whenever it feels like it. Not an issue with me. Other than that it's been trouble free.

 

[tech_dog]

It's been just under 5000 miles since my last oil change. I just checked the oil level and it's sitting on the full line, just like it was the day the oil was changed.

I've got 121,000 miles and have virtually zero oil consumption......

 

[uzj100]

99 - 117k. Purchased at 100k. PM only so far. Missing a sunroof.

uzj100

 

[Herky]

'99- 125k. I've owned it for last 18 months. We have a clunk in the steering column at slow speeds, cat rattle, burned out tail light, new pads and rotors on the front, and one of the ignitor coils went out. All in all it's doing pretty well for the miles. I did do the 90k service including water pump.

 

[a990dna]

08-01-06 05:47 PM

My 2005 just hit 8,400.... the details below from 1K miles to present.

1. driver door panel rattle.
2. driver window canted as it traveled through run.
3. door panel, window run, window and regulator replaced - fixed items 1 & 2.
4. steering wheel hub squealing when turning L/R - fixed.
5. rear seat rattle.
6. front driver side lean/sag.
7. front driver side spring/shock softness.
8. front driver side suspension knock.

It's currently at the dealer again to determine root cause for items 5, 6, 7 & 8.

I'm at 9,100 miles now...

- item #5 continues with an official "we can't fix it" from Toyota... they said I'll have to live with it.

- item #8 returned after spending 5 days in the shop for the fix. Toyota says the "frame rail layers" are "popping" or "coming into contact" as the frame flexes. They either "clamped" or "separated" the inner layers to stop the knock---depending on who you're talking to at the dealer.

Umm.. the SM said this frame rail thing happened on the T100s as well... but no TSB for the fix. Maybe Toyota avoids writing TSBs in order to reach #1 status in quality.

 

[bcripe]

99 - 140,000 Did the belt, pump, contacts, front wheelbearings, idler pulley, plugs at 90K. Rear window tracts at 100k. Nothing else.

Oh yea, my cat rattles. I can live with that.

 

[NMuzj100]

IToyota says the "frame rail layers" are "popping" or "coming into contact" as the frame flexes. They either "clamped" or "separated" the inner layers to stop the knock---depending on who you're talking to at the dealer.

I've never heard of such a thing. If fact I can't even imagine what they mean by "frame layers". The frame is made of large peices of steel. Not at all like an onion or even a parfait.

Umm.. the SM said this frame rail thing happened on the T100s as well... but no TSB for the fix. Maybe Toyota avoids writing TSBs in order to reach #1 status in quality.

I believe Honda is #1 and Toyota #2 in most quality measures.

They don't write a TSB if ...
1. They don't know what's wrong
2. They know but there is no way to fix it
3. They know and it can be fixed but would cost a lot of money

 

[a990dna]

I've never heard of such a thing. If fact I can't even imagine what they mean by "frame layers". The frame is made of large peices of steel. Not at all like an onion or even a parfait.

I believe Honda is #1 and Toyota #2 in most quality measures.

They don't write a TSB if ...
1. They don't know what's wrong
2. They know but there is no way to fix it
3. They know and it can be fixed but would cost a lot of money

Yea it all sounds like BS to me. They told me LC frame is made up in three layers... like a box within a box... but they're not welded because Toyota doesn't like to weld things togeher... LOL. They went in through a hole in the frame and "clamped" the layers to reposition them so they wouldn't come into contact as the frame flexes.

Here's their write-up verbatum:

"Retorqued engine supports, removed front bumper, inspect and retorqued front support bolts. Found driver side frame rail at transmission rubbing when frame flexes. Repositioned driver side frame rail multi-layer material."

Based on their fix, I kinda knew this knock would come back and it has after 600 miles.

 

[Morty]

'98 with 112k miles. Bought in 2000 w/ 18k miles. Regular service, one set of brakes, water pump failure at 75k, one antenna mast at 80k, set of gas shocks for rear hatch at 90k. 75 mph freeway collision two years ago that did about 15k worth of damage to the LC and totaled a Subaru. Several frontend parts replaced at that time. Without a doubt the most reliable car I have ever owned.

 

[tfrain]

D Light

What is the D Light? The D for Drive between the guages??
Also, I'm prett sure Toyota is just above Honda for quality, but because of all these recalls, who knows next year??

 

[mmaakk]

99 LC 128k miles (original owner) Issues:

tps sensor @ 30kmiles
Starter replaced @ 58kmiles
Cat rattle started @ 60k miles
Cant seem to get a set of tires to ware properly.

 

[hoser]

98 LX470 w/ 104k miles.

As far as my records indicate, all drivetrain parts are original (not including maintenance and preventive maintenance items)
Replaced power mirror (common problem for auto-lowering/reverse mirror) and one tailgate cable. No other problems.

 

[Mark SR.]

'99 LC bought from orig. owner at 65k miles, now 105k

-Starter contacts @ 85k - $100
-Front O2 sensors, one @ 96k, & one @ 98k - $206
-Power antenna mast @ 105k - $47
-Front & rear brake pads - $92 -Did not turn rotors

-Timing belt, WP, plugs, etc., next - $300

All work DIY.

Trailer wiring harness recall, but not done yet.

No cat shields rattle, TPS issues, ex. manifold, etc. -knock on wood.

-Mark

 

[SWUtah]

'99 LC bought from orig. owner at 65k miles, now 105k

-Starter contacts @ 85k - $100
-Front O2 sensors, one @ 96k, & one @ 98k - $206
-Power antenna mast @ 105k - $47
-Front & rear brake pads - $92 -Did not turn rotors

-Timing belt, WP, plugs, etc., next - $300

All work DIY.

Trailer wiring harness recall, but not done yet.

No cat shields rattle, TPS issues, ex. manifold, etc. -knock on wood.

-Mark

The costs really go way down when your a DIY person.

 

[LoadCoil]

'99 LC with 124K on it. Just bought it from brother-in-law. He did the 90K service at 100K miles. He also did new brakes and WP at the same time. Owned it only for a month now and the vehicle is still like new. Since I have owned it, I replace a fog light bulb, all three wipers, oil change, radiator flush, antenna broke, which I fixed with new one on Ebay for $24. Only problem that bugs me is the drive indicator ("D") on dash is out.

Overall, I like the truck and time will tell about the higher mileage.

 

[hec4x4dk]

99 100 V8 Auto at 255K Kms / 166K miles

My list besides perscribed maintenance, as I recall it:

10K Kms Hydronic heater battery exhaustion corrected (somewhat, timered blower now on fix low setting via relay instead of on auto, warranty)
25K Kms Yellow Optima (faster charge but less capacity)
50K Kms AHC RH sensor (warranty)
55K Kms Hydronic glowing plug
60K Kms BFG-AT/KO 285/75-16
90K Kms Hydronic glowing plug
120K Kms brake pads all
125K Kms Hydronic glowing plug
150K Kms Timing belt
160K Kms AHC RH+LH sensor, Hydronic heater in need of complete overhaul discarded for the favor of a Webasto heater
180K Kms Front discs and pads
200K Kms AHC RH+LH sensor (warranty from prior replacement)
210K Kms Extensive upgrade with OME (still AHC too), F+R bars, LR etc, incl tires BFG-AT/KO 295/75-16 (still 5 mm thread on the old ones)
220K Kms Alternator replaced (internal short), new battery 95Ah (Optima to HJ60 12V, 6mds later discarded due to failure)
224K Kms Transmission converter disintegrated, whole trans replaced (ouch... said to have overheated)
225K Kms Brake pads all (vehicle a lot heavier after upgrade)
255K Kms Ignition/steering lock driver stick broken, assembly replaced (annoying, should not wear, to fragile built IMO)
256K Kms AHC RH sensor may be aborting again, and the exhaust may be developing its first leak, and the pads may be worn again so a few replacements may be up here...

Oil and filter changed every 15K Kms, diff&trans fluid changed at 30-45K Kms depending on where the vehicle went in the period. PS fluid changed at rebuild, was at that time needed by the judgement of the fluids colour. Coolant and brake fluid changed every 2-3 years, both are due again, as is the hydraulic fluid that has never been changed. Aircon maintenance every 2-3 years.

Most of the vehicle very satisfying, Hydronic (Bosch) sucks, the AHC sensors are not watertight and the steering lock driver assembly built too weak. Always drives with AC on.

What would I by if needed to replace vehicle: A 105 manual diesel with AC.

When might that be due: Hopefully at 1M Kms or in 20 years. At that time the 105 may not be the option after all My Toy is a Bus (10-seater) and as such blessed with lower costs, and is not available anymore (Danish registraion legislation is a tragedy....)

Regards...

Henrik

 

[470clutch470]

02 with 63,390 on it
Hey guys is the 60k service very good for your LX470?

 

[SWUtah]

02 with 63,390 on it
Hey guys is the 60k service very good for your LX470?

Need to do the 60K mile (it is good for your LX ). I bet you are over due from a time standpoint since yours is a 2002.

 

[ddnuts]

To bring this interesting thread back to life.

I have 187k on my '99 LC and just the other day has been running rough and missing. I was told that it may be a bad coil, but a trip to the mechanic shall tell the tale. Any ideas, please feel free to shoot them my way.