The part in the G is A0005062564. Of course, being a G part, MB wants $$$ for it. I suspect that any "MB heater monovalve" will do the trick. It is plumbed so that coolant will flow around the heater and heater valve when the power is off. The monovalve is smaller than the hose diameter, so it reduces but does not eliminate heater function. When the power is on, it closes and forces all of the water to flow through the heater + heater valve. On the G, there is a microswitch that clicks this valve closed at about the halfway mark on the heater control slider.
Builds White Lightning's Diesel Conversion - A 1994 T100 OM606 swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bryan Plunkett
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I always learn something when I come here. So my 606 doesn't have that coolant bypass. I haven't noticed any ill effects but I have no way of knowing if there are any hot spots at the rear cylinders. I too would prefer to err on the side of caution... especially if there has been any history to suggest this is a likely trouble spot with these engines. I do remember reading something about this but can't remember if it was anecdotal precaution or an after the fact warning.
Any sense of how real this concern is?
Any sense of how real this concern is?
What I do know is that people building OM606A's for high power have been using both the passage at the left rear of the head and a pump to move heat out of the back of the engine. They claim it helps prevent meltdown of #5 and #6. You might want to dig into the subject at:
- Thread starter
- #124
I've been starting to research a new turbo for the truck to improve the low end as much truck is a manual and doesn't get the benefits of a torque converter allowing the rpm to slip up. There is a ton of information regarding turbos for these engines, however they seem focused on people using them in cars and for higher rpm power gains.
I'm looking for something that is able to start contributing some air as early as possible, 1200rpm would be great. The He221 seems popular, and the compressor map seems like it would work well, however I haven't been able to choose (or understand) which exhaust housing would work best. There doesn't seem to be a lot of information on turbine maps for this. They offer a 5, 5.5, 6, 7 and 8.5cm? to my knowledge, and for ~500$ new it's a very attractive option. 7cm seems popular, however I'm leaning towards the 5 or 5.5 to help with spool down low (I can only ever seem to find the 5.5 so that is likely what i would go with). I almost never exceed 4000rpm, so I'm ok if exhaust back pressure is non ideal at that RPM or higher.
I'm looking for some experience on the he221w exhaust housing size as well as if there might be a different commercially available turbos for this application. I was considering the variable geometry gt23v for awhile, however i heard there were multiple variants with large differences in efficiency. I'm open to compound setups (heard the R2S might work), however I'd prefer it be as bolt on as possible (have a variety of other projects going on, including one on the house that I need this truck to work for, so less downtime is huge). I created a thread on this over on superturbodiesel but haven't gotten a ton of responses.
anyways, I did some baseline traces to show what the stock kkk k14 turbo produces. They're posted below incase it could potentially help someone in the future. The 3rd gear pull probably shows the best representation of the turbo. I included the 2nd gear pull to show how it trails off in the higher rpm (part of that is due to the wgdc and me not wanting to spin it too fast). nonetheless it shows how long it takes from the time you punch it until the time it builds useable boost (too long).
I'm looking for something that is able to start contributing some air as early as possible, 1200rpm would be great. The He221 seems popular, and the compressor map seems like it would work well, however I haven't been able to choose (or understand) which exhaust housing would work best. There doesn't seem to be a lot of information on turbine maps for this. They offer a 5, 5.5, 6, 7 and 8.5cm? to my knowledge, and for ~500$ new it's a very attractive option. 7cm seems popular, however I'm leaning towards the 5 or 5.5 to help with spool down low (I can only ever seem to find the 5.5 so that is likely what i would go with). I almost never exceed 4000rpm, so I'm ok if exhaust back pressure is non ideal at that RPM or higher.
I'm looking for some experience on the he221w exhaust housing size as well as if there might be a different commercially available turbos for this application. I was considering the variable geometry gt23v for awhile, however i heard there were multiple variants with large differences in efficiency. I'm open to compound setups (heard the R2S might work), however I'd prefer it be as bolt on as possible (have a variety of other projects going on, including one on the house that I need this truck to work for, so less downtime is huge). I created a thread on this over on superturbodiesel but haven't gotten a ton of responses.
anyways, I did some baseline traces to show what the stock kkk k14 turbo produces. They're posted below incase it could potentially help someone in the future. The 3rd gear pull probably shows the best representation of the turbo. I included the 2nd gear pull to show how it trails off in the higher rpm (part of that is due to the wgdc and me not wanting to spin it too fast). nonetheless it shows how long it takes from the time you punch it until the time it builds useable boost (too long).
Bryan, it's great to see your build taking shape. A friend tuned me into your thread and I thought it was worth sharing my experience with a similar theme:
I just got through installing a Garrett GTX2860R Gen2 on my 606a in a Gwagen. The benefit of this setup is that a Tial .52 AR housing is available for it, giving you exceptionally fast spool up for low RPM torque. My setup does not use the electronic ECU - it has the 7.5mm Dieselmeken mechanical injection pump, which further affects driveability with the K14 turbo. The truck has a manual 5-speed, so I can well relate to what you're after with respect to off-road torque.
For the turbo I opted for a V-band inlet/outlet and external wastegate that can be operated by either vacuum or pressure (Tial 38mm). I made a fully custom turbo manifold for it out of stainless tubing - I'm not a professional welder and can say this is a chore for the average Joe, but in the end it works *please don't knock my awful welds - I know how bad they are better than anyone! Lots of mock-up time and tack welding. This turbo also requires water cooling since it's a ball-bearing type. Water lines were all done with AN fittings and DIY braided stainless hoses, which is no picnic to put together either, but it's more tedious than hard.
The results so far are good, but I believe will be better once I put some tuning time in. Low end torque comes on significantly earlier, and it pulls hard all the way to my own 4K RPM limit (the turbo will happily go well beyond that). It has a significant spooling whistle sound that the K14 didn't, and I have something awry with my plumbing that appears to be limiting boost, but even as-is this turbo has made a big difference in driveability. Being all-mechanical, I can't post any cool performance graphs, sorry.
The GTX series turbos are current generation and not pulled from a low-budget junkyard build. I chose this turbo model based on tech recommendations directly from the Garrett distributor, and from others that have used this exact model on the 606a with good success. Hopefully this will be one more data-point to help you find the right fit for your build.
I just got through installing a Garrett GTX2860R Gen2 on my 606a in a Gwagen. The benefit of this setup is that a Tial .52 AR housing is available for it, giving you exceptionally fast spool up for low RPM torque. My setup does not use the electronic ECU - it has the 7.5mm Dieselmeken mechanical injection pump, which further affects driveability with the K14 turbo. The truck has a manual 5-speed, so I can well relate to what you're after with respect to off-road torque.
For the turbo I opted for a V-band inlet/outlet and external wastegate that can be operated by either vacuum or pressure (Tial 38mm). I made a fully custom turbo manifold for it out of stainless tubing - I'm not a professional welder and can say this is a chore for the average Joe, but in the end it works *please don't knock my awful welds - I know how bad they are better than anyone! Lots of mock-up time and tack welding. This turbo also requires water cooling since it's a ball-bearing type. Water lines were all done with AN fittings and DIY braided stainless hoses, which is no picnic to put together either, but it's more tedious than hard.
The results so far are good, but I believe will be better once I put some tuning time in. Low end torque comes on significantly earlier, and it pulls hard all the way to my own 4K RPM limit (the turbo will happily go well beyond that). It has a significant spooling whistle sound that the K14 didn't, and I have something awry with my plumbing that appears to be limiting boost, but even as-is this turbo has made a big difference in driveability. Being all-mechanical, I can't post any cool performance graphs, sorry.
The GTX series turbos are current generation and not pulled from a low-budget junkyard build. I chose this turbo model based on tech recommendations directly from the Garrett distributor, and from others that have used this exact model on the 606a with good success. Hopefully this will be one more data-point to help you find the right fit for your build.
- Thread starter
- #126
Vadim thanks for posting up your setup, glad to know I'm not the only one looking for a bottom end torque curve. A quick search seems to show the gt28 flowing more than the he221. I'm guessing that smaller exhaust housing you have helps with the spoolup. Next time you get a chance to drive it would you mind doing a pull in a 3rd gear or higher from like 1000rpm and noting what RPM it takes to make 10psi of boost? The k14 turbo seems to take until 1900rpm, so i'm hoping to swap to something that can make it by 1200-1500rpm or sooner.
great looking fab work with the wastegate, can't imagine that was easy to fit up, i like the coolant manifold too btw.
great looking fab work with the wastegate, can't imagine that was easy to fit up, i like the coolant manifold too btw.
Once I figure out my boost issue I will certainly follow with a 3rd-gear pull for you. It may take a little while but I'd like to get to the bottom of it asap.
Thanks for posting those datalogs. That seems to match what I saw with the stock turbo (but with a bit slower spool up here at altitude).
I really think a small-ish Garrett VNT is the best overall solution for the 606 in a truck/4x4. If you're fine with the power that the K14 turbo gives you, then the 648 or 642 turbo are really the best fit for this engine. Those turbos came from ~3L engines, so they're engineered to match pretty well with the 3L 606. With the Hella electronic actuators, the boost control is just so much better than what you get with a vacuum-based control system.
Bottom line is that no wastegated turbo that makes decent power is going to give you the response you want. It's gotta be either variable geometry or 2-stage.
The Borg Warner R2S system did perform really well in my setup, but I went away from it just because of complexity and packaging.
Gear ratios really affect all of this as well. You at least have the advantage of a 1st gear which has a fairly big ratio compared to a 4-speed auto.
I really think a small-ish Garrett VNT is the best overall solution for the 606 in a truck/4x4. If you're fine with the power that the K14 turbo gives you, then the 648 or 642 turbo are really the best fit for this engine. Those turbos came from ~3L engines, so they're engineered to match pretty well with the 3L 606. With the Hella electronic actuators, the boost control is just so much better than what you get with a vacuum-based control system.
Bottom line is that no wastegated turbo that makes decent power is going to give you the response you want. It's gotta be either variable geometry or 2-stage.
The Borg Warner R2S system did perform really well in my setup, but I went away from it just because of complexity and packaging.
Gear ratios really affect all of this as well. You at least have the advantage of a 1st gear which has a fairly big ratio compared to a 4-speed auto.
- Thread starter
- #129
Been following some threads over on Superturbodiesel that made me wonder if my smoking at startup had something to do with a prechamber issue. Since I had never checked them I decided it was time to cross them and a compression test off the list.
The compression test numbers came out as follows, as well as repopping of the injectors. I did notice that if I hold the pressure on my tester at ~50 psi before the injector pops, that a droplet of fluid starts to form from the nozzle tip. It takes about 5 seconds to be noticeable, and if I carefully (very very slowly) adjust it higher it starts to pee in some cases. Obviously the engine doesnt really apply the pressure rise slow like this so I'm wondering if it matters ( can leave it at 1800psi and i see no leakage). Those firad 314 nozzles only have about 3000? miles on them so they shouldn't be worn out...but it has me wondering if I got a bad batch. Can anyone confirm if this is normal or not?
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
From my inexperienced eye the prechambers looked pretty uniform (accidentally cleaned the first one in what was supposed to be the "before lineup").
The only difference i noted after cleaning was a tiny circle on on the tips which looks more like a machining mark than something from combustion characteristics.
In summary the compression test and prechamber inspection make me think i can rule them out as the cause. I think I might have something up with the injectors still despite 2 rebuilds.
The compression test numbers came out as follows, as well as repopping of the injectors. I did notice that if I hold the pressure on my tester at ~50 psi before the injector pops, that a droplet of fluid starts to form from the nozzle tip. It takes about 5 seconds to be noticeable, and if I carefully (very very slowly) adjust it higher it starts to pee in some cases. Obviously the engine doesnt really apply the pressure rise slow like this so I'm wondering if it matters ( can leave it at 1800psi and i see no leakage). Those firad 314 nozzles only have about 3000? miles on them so they shouldn't be worn out...but it has me wondering if I got a bad batch. Can anyone confirm if this is normal or not?
injector # - compression test (psi) - injector pop (psi)
1- 365 - 1975
2- 380 - 2025
3- 375 - 2010
4- 380 - 1980
5- 385 - 1990
6- 365 - 2020
From my inexperienced eye the prechambers looked pretty uniform (accidentally cleaned the first one in what was supposed to be the "before lineup").
The only difference i noted after cleaning was a tiny circle on on the tips which looks more like a machining mark than something from combustion characteristics.
In summary the compression test and prechamber inspection make me think i can rule them out as the cause. I think I might have something up with the injectors still despite 2 rebuilds.
Your compression numbers look fine. That's well above the "wear limit" of 18 bar/260psi.
The injectors shouldn't drip before they pop. When I rebuilt mine with Monark nozzles, they just pop suddenly then sorta (shudder) as the hydraulic pressure and spring pressure oscillate briefly. Maybe your dripping goes away once things warm up.
The most important thing with prechambers is making sure there's still the little ball inside. You can see it by shining a flashlight in through the hole where the injectors go. It's there to give the fuel a "hot spot" to ignite on.
Also check your pre-and post-start glow times. You might just not be running the after-start timer enough. For temps below freezing, you may want the plugs to after-glow for a minute. Note that some glow plugs don't allow continuous operation. NGK plugs (maybe others) have a resistive coil that keeps them from burning out when left on continuously.
The injectors shouldn't drip before they pop. When I rebuilt mine with Monark nozzles, they just pop suddenly then sorta (shudder) as the hydraulic pressure and spring pressure oscillate briefly. Maybe your dripping goes away once things warm up.
The most important thing with prechambers is making sure there's still the little ball inside. You can see it by shining a flashlight in through the hole where the injectors go. It's there to give the fuel a "hot spot" to ignite on.
Also check your pre-and post-start glow times. You might just not be running the after-start timer enough. For temps below freezing, you may want the plugs to after-glow for a minute. Note that some glow plugs don't allow continuous operation. NGK plugs (maybe others) have a resistive coil that keeps them from burning out when left on continuously.
- Thread starter
- #131
Thanks for the feedback.
good on the prechamber balls.
Glow times are pretty long (much longer than the DSL1 defaults). 60 @ 13C, 100 @ 8C for reference. I've replaced, and then checked, all the plugs to make sure they're glowing orange as well. Even after an 8 second pre glow I get a puff of white smoke on startup before the cloud of blue smoke follows (not oil), so it led me to believe I've got very incomplete combustion in at least 1 cylinder. Didn't know if it was a prechamber, compression, or too much/bad timing/bad spray fuel issue. I'm leaning towards the fuel now as the prechamber, compression, and GPs have all checked out.
tired of dumping money into different nozzles but I think my issues are related to some bad ones, especially after your comments on the pop testing. Did you go with the 310 nozzles?
So, I've had a little time to tinker with the adjustments and came to the conclusion that my intercooler was under-sized. After replacing the 3X6X24 with a 3X9X24 (core size) it made a big difference. This setup still pales in comparison to the graph you posted, however. I'm hitting 10lbs of boost at ~2500 RPM measured at the manifold. By 3K RPM I'm at 20PSI boost. Strangely, responsiveness is overwhelmingly improved over the 606a with K14 and Dieselmeken 7.5mm IP. My charge air piping is relatively long, and 2" diameter. The IC is 3" with 2.5" inlet/outlets, and the intake is stock but with an EGR delete. I'm sure my charge-air intake volume is significant.
Although this setup is a revision of countless more revisions, I'm open to thoughts that might improve it. As-is, I'm finally delighted to have a "go-pedal" instead of a "floor it and wait" pedal. The GTX2860 is phenomenal and make lots of fun turbo sounds as it winds up. The starting torque is the best part for a daily driver. I hope this report can help folks determine what's best for their application.
Although this setup is a revision of countless more revisions, I'm open to thoughts that might improve it. As-is, I'm finally delighted to have a "go-pedal" instead of a "floor it and wait" pedal. The GTX2860 is phenomenal and make lots of fun turbo sounds as it winds up. The starting torque is the best part for a daily driver. I hope this report can help folks determine what's best for their application.
Is there anyway you can email a picture of the specs for the mounting plate and flywheel. I'm looking to do the same thing and can't find any kits for a Toyota transmission to om606So after many years of talking about, lurking through forums, and frankly annoying even myself with all talk and no action, I finally bit the bullet and started the swap process. I knew I wanted a diesel engine in the truck, partially for mileage, partially for cool/sound factor, so everyone (including me) whose thinking "An LS swap would have been easier and more power" can keep those comments for another thread. I landed on the Mercedes OM606 due to availability (found a wrecked donor vehicle local), power, reputation for robustness, and also the fact that it's an I-6, which should mean it'll be a lot smoother than the rattley 4 cylinder diesel options.
The Truck for starters is a 1994 Toyota T100 4x4 thats been in the family since 1995, so it's got some sentimental value to it. The 3.0 in it never let me down except any time I had to go up a hill with something in the back. Here is a picture in it's pre-swap state. It's got 1.25" Ball joint spacers up front, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around, a Kazuma LSD, and sits on BFG AT 31" Tires (almost as stock as they come at this age).
View attachment 1591678
Here is the new engine/trans coming home (in my dads Tundra). It came from a wrecked 99 Mercedes 300d. It came with all ecus, exhaust, intercooler, and any wiring I could cut out of it before he hauled it to the crusher. The plan from the start is to sell the Mercedes trans and make an adapter plate to keep the original Toyota R150. For fuel control I've ordered and received Baldurs ecu (A guy in Iceland? who has made his own ecu for the om605/6 engines). I highly considered going with the mechanical pump route, but decided against it. I've done a fair amount of gas fuel injection tuning on another car of mine and figured it would be fun to do the same on this.
Did a little cleanup on the engine, replaced the plastic fuel lines, cleaned the EGR gunked up intake and replaced some gaskets that looked to be leaking. You may notice the power steering pump is off in the picture. The pulley was damaged in the wreck so i've had to order a new one. Additionally I'm planning to mount the original toyota pump as the mercedes pump runs a higher outlet pressure (~1800psi vs 1400).
View attachment 1591679
View attachment 1591681
Started the Teardown on the truck, took lots of angular and positional measurements referenced to the frame so I can get things back at the right angles at least. It's looking like i'll need to slide the trans back about 4" to fit this behemoth behind the front core support. Before I did any teardown I put it on some scales with 3/4 tank of gas to get a weight distribution (man this thing is light!). I wanted too see how much the new engine changes it. Currently the truck has very good on road handling, which I assume is because it's so light, and the majority of the engine is behind the front axle. The OM606 is probably about 100 lbs heavier than the 3.0 coming out from numbers I've seen online (om606 ~490, 3.0 ~375)
"here is your new home transmission"
View attachment 1591680
Started work on the adapter plate. Fortunately I was able to find dowel to crank centerline patterns for the OM606 and the toyota R150 posted online, which saved me a ton of time. The om606 came from the super turbo diesel forum and I believe the R150 came from this one... i forget the username, will update later, but THANK YOU! I sketched them out in CAD and then printed them on paper to fit check them.
I went with the Monark nozzles that I found on eBay, not sure of those are the same as the 310 or not.
Before I installed new nozzles, I completely disassembled the injectors and cleaned them in an ultrasonic machine, then pop tested. Even after that, they still nailed badly and smoked on cold start. After new nozzles, it still nails a bit when cold, but there's almost no smoke and once it's warm, it sounds like butter.
- Thread starter
- #135
Update, I forgot to mention that after doing all the work in the July timeframe listed above; checking the rechambers, trying a 3rd? set of nozzels etc, the fix for my blue smoke during warmup at idle was changing out the delivery valves. They act as a check valve to keep the pressure in the fuel lines from bleeding down and therefore to keep the injection timing consistent. I believe mine were losing some line pressure which was worse at lower engine speeds causing delayed injection. I also realized that i had installed 1 or 2 upside down when i first did the delivery valve seals in 2018? when i initially got the engine running...i went back and fixed them a month later but i imagine i ruined the seats to some degree then.
Replacing them with a used set from another injection pump did the trick.
There's a great thread about this where Diseasel300 goes thru his experience as well as some lapping options to recondition the DV seats.
Replacing them with a used set from another injection pump did the trick.
There's a great thread about this where Diseasel300 goes thru his experience as well as some lapping options to recondition the DV seats.
Delivery valve internal leak as a cause of nailing? Yes? No? Maybe??? - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum
Agreed that a metal-to-metal valve face takes a lot of abuse. Just as tetraethyl lead in gas helped prevent valve seat wear, the sulfur in diesel fuel
www.peachparts.com
- Thread starter
- #136
I've been debating a new turbo for awhile and finally decided on something new. Big thanks to anothernord on the forum for sharing his experience doing the same turbo swap.
I went with the GTD2060vz as it seemed to fit what I was looking for as far as quick spool (lower than 1800rpm) as well as should be right in the sweet spot of the turbo in the rpm range i'll be. Compared to the early 90?'s technology the stock turbo was designed with, this should offer improved efficiency with it being from the 2014+ garret/honeywell lineup (variants used on most 3.0 diesel vw products). Used on ebay has alot of <700$ options which I also liked.
GTD2060vz Compressor wheel sizes for anyone curious
inducer: 42.75mm
exducer: 60?mm
exducer tip: 61.83mm
Comparison to the Stock Turbo
Note the size difference of the exhaust side.
The Exhaust side needs to most modification. The gtd2060 goes on a V6 and the Y is casted into the turbo exhaust housing. After cutting that off (shiny face in above picture I welded on a mild steel flange with a Mig. I preheated the casting in the oven before full welding it. not sure if that was needed or not but i figured it couldn't hurt.
it isn't perfect, but i think i got it to line up ok.
Lastly (for the exhaust side) I tigged on a 3"stainless flange. I used ER309L filler rod as it's supposed to help with mixing dissimilar metals
I went with the GTD2060vz as it seemed to fit what I was looking for as far as quick spool (lower than 1800rpm) as well as should be right in the sweet spot of the turbo in the rpm range i'll be. Compared to the early 90?'s technology the stock turbo was designed with, this should offer improved efficiency with it being from the 2014+ garret/honeywell lineup (variants used on most 3.0 diesel vw products). Used on ebay has alot of <700$ options which I also liked.
GTD2060vz Compressor wheel sizes for anyone curious
inducer: 42.75mm
exducer: 60?mm
exducer tip: 61.83mm
Comparison to the Stock Turbo
Note the size difference of the exhaust side.
The Exhaust side needs to most modification. The gtd2060 goes on a V6 and the Y is casted into the turbo exhaust housing. After cutting that off (shiny face in above picture I welded on a mild steel flange with a Mig. I preheated the casting in the oven before full welding it. not sure if that was needed or not but i figured it couldn't hurt.
it isn't perfect, but i think i got it to line up ok.
Lastly (for the exhaust side) I tigged on a 3"stainless flange. I used ER309L filler rod as it's supposed to help with mixing dissimilar metals
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #137
Redid the exhaust and intake piping to line up. Went with a bellows on the exhaust to replace the flex joint. Hoping this might reduce some of the noise/vibrations i was getting. Still need to remount the turbo actuator, the stock actuator location interfered with the exhaust manifold.
Nice work, I think you'll really like that turbo. It's a bit of work to get fabbed in for sure though.
How's the GTD working for you?
- Thread starter
- #140
Really well! It'll actually start building a tiny bit of boost as I'm slipping the clutch to get going in my uphill driveway. Really helps it takeoff without leaving behind any smoke. I went from 30.5x10.5 bfg ats to some 31.9s at the same time as the swap so i didn't get a big fuel economy bump. Before I averaged around 21 around town. I got 22 with the bigger tires (diameter/distance accounted for) on my last tank. I was hoping for a large bump in efficiency but I guess I shouldn't complain about 22 with this tire setup.
I've been meaning to post a log comparison to show how much better this builds boost than the stock turbo. If I stomp the pedal ill definitely get some overshoot which is why I havent...need the data to look pretty haha. Ive been too lazy to tune the pid loop anymore and have just been ramping into it...which is how id normally drive anyways.
