While I'm in there (Engine Rebuild)

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As a new 80 (94) owner, just want to give a quick thank you to the community and the forum as it has been invaluable to my "restoration" project. With that said, I don't know what I don't know and stumble across random nuggets of tips, advice and feedback.

While I'm not one to normally question Toyota engineers, with my recent engine teardown I have found a lot of complexities that I plan to minimize or remove based on a lot of the solutions found here.

So my question really to the community here is what do you recommend I fix, improve, remove, etc while I have the drivetrain completely removed?? Can be anything from as simple as removing the PAIR valve or swapping to a 3-link. Would be great to hear the recommendations.

Below is a list of things I have "improved" based on what I have found on the forums:

PAIR Valve:
I didn't know much about the PAIR valve other than it was removed on 95s and later. I didnt pay much attention to this during the tear down until I notice the piping was slightly dented so I looked it up to find most people deleting it. I removed it and replaced the coolant pipe for 95+ for good measure.

Rear Heater Delete:
I'm not even sure what to say about this but I hate the coolant lines, seems like an afterthought. My 80 had a small coolant leak from the rear heater hoses when I bought it and I replaced it with the HPS kit to stop the leak. Probably my least favorite job I've ever done (maybe its not that bad for others) and immediately looked for another solution. Thanks to the forum I deleted the rear heater and piping and sourced the bypass hose from Japan (Two actually to have a spare and save on shipping since it's an unusual part that wont be made forever) which removed like half of the coolant connections.

O2 Sensors:
With the PAIR removed I'm moving the O2 sensors to the exhaust manifold, I havent seen anyone post issues of this and I like that they are a little more protected (despite the heat). I purchased the YR van plates to cover the old ports on the exhaust (great find on the forum here).

EGR:
I debated deleting this all together, pulling the lines and adding the plates but despite not having emissions requirements, that may not last for forever so I think my plan is to keep the EGR and simply disable it. I have the Huddexpo plug and BB's that I'll use to turn everyhing off. The EGR system also seems like an afterthought and as someone who subscribes to KISS, I'm tempted to remove the EGR completely.

Blue Fan Clutch Mod:
Not sure if this is needed but have it since everyone else has it.

Wiring Harness:
Sadly can't be sourced new for a 94 so refreshing this with a complete cleanup, new connectors (previous owner ziptied them), new wrap (with heat tape) and everything else to hopefully make this thing last another 300k

Below is a list of things that I'm also thinking of fixing or "improving" with the drivetrain removed and rebuilt.

Fuel Filter Relocation (Why is it under the intake, what a PITA)
Steering Joint replacement
105 Sectorshaft upgrade
Wits End Steering Cooler
3-link (Not sure this will happen but super easy to cut and weld new stuff with the drivetrain gone)

That's the main list so far but open to others thoughts on things I should do while I'm in there. What would you do with everything out?

Thanks!
 
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I'd seriously go through the engine harness, or just buy a new one. Especially look at the heat wrap, if you keep the EGR.

Look at the injectors; they probably need cleaning.

Replace your A/C dryer.

Replace you front shocks. They are much easier to get to once the head is out.
 
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pair valve was there to add air into the exhaust to help warm the cat up, i deleted mine as well theres no problem with deleting it.

if you drop the trans out you can change out the rear heat lines, their a huge pain to replace

if you dont have any emissions nspection removing the egr is a good idea, one less thing to fail and deal with

if your not overheating then doing the fan clutch mod is not really a priority, id just make sure that the clutch is working correctly
 
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I'd seriously go through the engine harness, or just buy a new one. Especially look at the heat wrap, if you keep the EGR.

Look at the injectors; they probably need cleaning.

Replace your A/C dryer.

Replace you front shocks. They are much easier to get to once the head is out.

I'd love to buy a new harness but they are discontinued for 1994 but plan to replace all of the connectors and refresh with Tessa Tape and Isotherm tape around the EGR. I read up how the EGR was burning them up and since the harness seems to be difficult to replace I plan to protect it.

I didnt even think of replacing the AC dryer and great tip on the front shocks. The previous owner installed OME shocks with JSprings but I planned to swap the shocks anyway, so I'll move those up on the list to install while everything is out.
 

Spdstr280Z

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Make sure to include the TRANSMISSION / Transfer Case wire harness with the engine. Pay particular attention to that damned round PRNDL connector with the stupid rubber condom on it. If any one connector is corroded on your truck, this is it. My transmission harness was in far worse condition than the engine harness. If you are a clean freak at all, great time to clean everything up, and makes reassembly so much easier. Good time to regear the transfer case too... :rofl:
 
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pair valve was there to add air into the exhaust to help warm the cat up, i deleted mine as well theres no problem with deleting it.

if you drop the trans out you can change out the rear heat lines, their a huge pain to replace

if you dont have any emissions nspection removing the egr is a good idea, one less thing to fail and deal with

if your not overheating then doing the fan clutch mod is not really a priority, id just make sure that the clutch is working correctly

I dont have emissions, just concerns that maybe one day they randomly add them or I move to an area that requires them. Super torn on this.
Make sure to include the TRANSMISSION / Transfer Case wire harness with the engine. Pay particular attention to that damned round PRNDL connector with the stupid rubber condom on it. If any one connector is corroded on your truck, this is it. My transmission harness was in far worse condition than the engine harness. If you are a clean freak at all, great time to clean everything up, and makes reassembly so much easier. Good time to regear the transfer case too... :rofl:

Ya good call on that and thanks for the reminder, when I was unplugging everything to pull the drivetrain the transmission wire casing literally crumbled to dust in my fingers. I'm going to wrap all of the transmission and TC wires in new Insultherm and Tesa Tape, planning to replace all the rubber lines as well.

PS. Dropped the TC off with Slee to regear. I watched an OTRAMM video on the regear and I was like, nah I'll let Slee do it.
 

Spdstr280Z

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PS. Dropped the TC off with Slee to regear. I watched an OTRAMM video on the regear and I was like, nah I'll let Slee do it.

Awesome ! Honestly, the @OTRAMM video got me through it. Now that I have done it, it wasn't horrible, but was looking for someone to do it too. No one local was the least bit interested.

Jason
 
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Awesome ! Honestly, the @OTRAMM video got me through it. Now that I have done it, it wasn't horrible, but was looking for someone to do it too. No one local was the least bit interested.

Jason
No surprise there; there's more money in swapping parts than actually doing skilled labor.
 

Spdstr280Z

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No surprise there; there's more money in swapping parts than actually doing skilled labor.

Truth. What blew my mind was that the tranny shop (the same shop that has gone through a 5 speed manual for me in the past and told me they were happy to touch something other than an automatic at the time), and a local 4WD place that literally said they do Jeeps, didn't want anything to do with it.
 
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Truth. What blew my mind was that the tranny shop (the same shop that has gone through a 5 speed manual for me in the past and told me they were happy to touch something other than an automatic at the time), and a local 4WD place that literally said they do Jeeps, didn't want anything to do with it.
I don't know what 4WD places around you are like, but I wouldn't let any of them around here near one of my Land Cruisers.
 

Spdstr280Z

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I don't know what 4WD places around you are like, but I wouldn't let any of them around here near one of my Land Cruisers.

I really don't want anyone touching it, so it all worked out. To put this thread back on track, OP, you could always clean and Raptor the tranny tunnel while everything is out...

PXL_20220806_224506317.jpg



Jason
 
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I dont have emissions, just concerns that maybe one day they randomly add them or I move to an area that requires them. Super torn on this.


you can disable the egr without block off plates. i looped the vacuum lines back to them selves and used a jumper wire on the harness side to connect both wires going to the egr sensor. the truck is getting older to the point that you may be able to put historic or collector tags and that usually makes the vehicle emissions exempt just as a thought
 
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you can disable the egr without block off plates. i looped the vacuum lines back to them selves and used a jumper wire on the harness side to connect both wires going to the egr sensor. the truck is getting older to the point that you may be able to put historic or collector tags and that usually makes the vehicle emissions exempt just as a thought
I think thats what I may do. The HuddExpo kit comes with the jumper and 4 bbs to block the lines.
 
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For those that did the pair delete, which gaskets did you use for the sensors on the headers, the gasket that comes with the sensor to be used on the down pipe or the gaskets that were used for the PAIR pipe. Because of the heat I was thinking of using the PAIR gaskets.
 
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Watching to learn…:popcorn: I’ve barely wrapped my head around the basics of my wife’s ‘95 and then I picked up a ‘94 that needs attention…because I apparently can’t just make things easy and efficient.
 

Spdstr280Z

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For those that did the pair delete, which gaskets did you use for the sensors on the headers, the gasket that comes with the sensor to be used on the down pipe or the gaskets that were used for the PAIR pipe. Because of the heat I was thinking of using the PAIR gaskets.

Pretty sure I used the O2 sensor gaskets.

Jason
 

Spdstr280Z

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Watching to learn…:popcorn: I’ve barely wrapped my head around the basics of my wife’s ‘95 and then I picked up a ‘94 that needs attention…because I apparently can’t just make things easy and efficient.

And you wanted the better dash and transmission... And grille, I almost forgot the much better grille ! :popcorn:

Jason
 
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