which torque wrench: 10-75 ft/lbs 3/8 or 20-150 ft/lbs 1/2"

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Apr 2, 2006
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I bought a torque wrench to use on my head gasket, it's a 10-75 ft/lbs wrench in 3/8 size.

I am wondering if I should go trade it for the 1/2" 20-150 ft/lbs wrench?

I don't know if I want or need two of them to get the extra 10 ft/lbs on the bottom of the range.

Should I trade it or will a 10-75 do it?


(don't have FSM or Tech downloads available right now so can't see the torque specs necessary)

matt
 
Hopefully it was a quality one. Most of the real cheap ones will only give you grief. Not reading real values.
Any how for the head you need one that torques to 29 lbs, then you use the 90 degree turn method after.
good luck robbie
 
it's not the beam type one, it's the microtorque model that is supposed to be within 4% give or take.


I would prefer a snapon or something but $$$$$ :)


I had a very good quality torque wrench once that was bucks but some :censor: stole a toolbox from my garage and got it.


so the 3/8 model sounds like it'll do fine for the head.
 
If it is made in china, run away
 
Don't by the crap ones at Harbor Freight - the FIL gave me a 3/8 from there and it fell apart in less than 2 years. Gearwrench makes a very nice one for around $80-90 IIRC, 3/8 with a lb spread from 5 to 100 or something close to that. I was looking for a good one that covered the spectrum from very low to high enough to handle at least the 90 ft/lbs that the front caliper bolts use. Most 3/8 only go to 75 ft/lbs. The 1/2 inch one I've got is too long to torque the front calipers in the space available.
 
torq wrenches are accurate in the upper 3/4 of their range so get one were the torq spee is in the upper 3/4 IMHO
 
If you're giving serious thought to purchasing your first torque wrench, you should go with the 3/8". However, you should face the reality that no 3/8 torque wrench will cover the entire spectrum. I have a 1/4" inch pound, 3/8" foot pound flex head and a 1/2" foot pound that goes up to 250 foot pounds. I use all of them quite frequently working on the 80. But the 3/8" is definately the most used.
 
My 1/2 inch is the most used for service work, then 3/8, then the 1/4 torque beam for diffs and such. I once in a while pull out the 200-600ftlb break down for the serious stuff(crank pulley bolt for one). all snap-on all work great(one well over 40 years young) with reliable info when needed. I see too much bad work done by cheap torque wrenchs that create problems for people(and not using proper techinque).
I can see where the 3/8 would be a choice wrench for the home mechanic. More use of the typical bolt spectrum, most head bolts are torque to yield any more, so low torque first, then degrees of rotation after that.
 
Originally posted by goneballistic
I would prefer a snapon or something but $$$$$:)

You get what you paid for. I hope your torque wrench is at least a Craftsman or Mac. You're working on the head so you want to do it right the first time and quality work starts with quality tools. :)
 
I have two Snap-on wrenches, including a 3/4 drive 400 lb-ft (for the crank bolt) and a MAC.

Cheap torque wrenches are worse than NO torque wrench.
 
it's a craftsman and it's made in the USA. Someone said the Home Depot ones were pretty good.

I will have to look into the GearWrench one. I have loved those wrenches so far.


I pretty much have carte blanche on tools right now. with the money I'm "saving" doing the HG myself. Wife thinks 300 bucks in new tools sounds pretty cheap compared to 3K in shop work :D

I need to somehow convince her that I need a new M1 Garand from CMP as part of my HG maintenance. it would definitely fall under the "cool tool" category. Wouldn't it?
 
Cheap torque wrenches are worse than NO torque wrench.

X2

Nothing worse than a poor quality TW, whats the use in torquing something if you're not sure of its accuracy? Technique is also important.
MAC makes an excellet 3/8" drive flex head 5-75 lbs, as well as a nice 1/2" model, both are click style and more resonable than the snap-on.
 
What about SK? They seem to be at a similar price point as Gearwrench. Also, is it common practice to send out torque wrenches for testing and calibration?
 
not to hijack the thread hear, but what tq wremch would y'all use for an axle rebuild?

I just rebuilt both of my axles and I used all 3 of my torque wrenches mentioned earlier.

On a side note: I took all 3 of my wrenches out to the Snap-On truck today for testing and they are all DEAD on even the 20 year old one. I realize that it would be extremely hard for a "home" mechanic to justify buying 3 Snap-On torque wrenches but it definately does further the argument that you get what you pay for.
 
619Toy, Thanks for the info. I'll be making an attempt at the end of this month to do my axles. Between now and then. I'm just procuring the tools and parts, the FSM and the DVD (since I don't have any experience.
 
I have two Snap-on wrenches, including a 3/4 drive 400 lb-ft (for the crank bolt) and a MAC.

Cheap torque wrenches are worse than NO torque wrench.

what he said..............
 
now I'm all paranoid this craftsman will wreck my rig, increase global warming and possibly make me go sterile !

I will have to possibly lay out the $$$ for a snap-on or something.


I guess with all the $$ i'm saving with doing the HG myself I might be able to justify it.......



this is getting expensive....:)
 
this is getting expensive....:)

Welcome to the world of older cruisers! :doh: Remember, these were $45K plus truck when purchased new. Maintenance isn't cheap, but satisfying if you do the work yourself!
 
After reading this thread it seems that nobody has done a professional front knuckle service without a snap-on or mac torque wrench.

Have there been any success stories using a craftsman wrench?

I'm not sure if I can spend another $300 of my student loan funds on a new wrench without the :princess: killing me.
 

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