Which 2006 LC 100 sears battery?

[Smogcity]

The stock battery crapped out this morning and I'm going to sears for a new one...Did a lot of reading on mud and I'm still confused.

Which is the best, drop-in, no battery tray mod battery I can get at sears for a 2006 LC 100

The sears website states its this:
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02850035000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

[jonharis]

The stock battery crapped out this morning and I'm going to sears for a new one...Did a lot of reading on mud and I'm still confused.

Which is the best, drop-in, no battery tray mod battery I can get at sears for a 2006 LC 100

The sears website states its this:
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02850035000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

The 34M would be ideal, however the terminals are reversed from what you need. For a stock replacement, I would just get the recommended battery from Sam's/Costco (for $85/3 year free replacement), or the battery you posted which has a great sale price right now and 4 year free replacement is not bad.

 

[Gottagetone]

Die Hard Platinum group 35. Its small but powerful and the terminals are in the right position.

 

[SmoothLC]

^^!



...

 

[mcalvarez73]

duralast from autozone fits perfectly....

 

[hoser]

FWIW, the stock size is 27F.

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

Yep the stock is a 27 and when you drop in a 34, it looks tiny...

I put a 31 in there and it fits perfect, I just bent the top bracket and made an extension out of steel.

 

[JS114]

I just put a DieHard Advanced Gold AGM, Group 49 (currently on sale). Fit perfect with a 1" spacer underneath, outstanding specs.

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

Here is what I did.. No doubt you have seen the 31M here from other pics.

But the spacer I fabbed up and the bracket fit might be another good example. Next step is to pick up Christo's dual batt kit and wire it all up.

 

[jonharis]

Here is what I did.. No doubt you have seen the 31M here from other pics.

But the spacer I fabbed up and the bracket fit might be another good example. Next step is to pick up Christo's dual batt kit and wire it all up.

Lookin good Chris! It it pretty stable of you try to move the battery around?

 

[Txanm]

I went with the diehard AGM 34R for my main. My thought is it wasn't going to be pulled down as often as the aux battery will and warranty isn't as crucial. Plus it was cheaper than the platinum (which I used as my aux).

http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?partNumber=02850733000P&reviewCount=zero&itemSrc=Online

The box next to the battery is my winch solenoid.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

Here is what I did.. No doubt you have seen the 31M here from other pics.

But the spacer I fabbed up and the bracket fit might be another good example. Next step is to pick up Christo's dual batt kit and wire it all up.

What type of metal did you use for your bus-bar? aluminum? That's what I used for my 31 install.

 

[xodeuce]

Die Hard Plat 31M, copper bus bar, mild steel bar stock and angle for the tie-down, factory j-bolt and front bolt, factory battery tray with one side sanded down (Outside, away from radiator / fan shroud), and a rubber drawer liner sheet inserted under battery. It seems to be plenty stable with the tie down securely tightened. Just need to paint it.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

Where did you get the copper to fab up your bus bar? I'm just using aluminum and it appears to work fine, but copper is a better conductor..

 

[xodeuce]

Where did you get the copper to fab up your bus bar? I'm just using aluminum and it appears to work fine, but copper is a better conductor..

My father in law is an industrial electrical contractor, and it was a piece of scrap from their shop. They use them for bus bars in a variety of enclosures pretty consistently. That's the smallest they had, the largest was I think 1/2" x 6" bar stock for a 5kV 2000A vacuum breaker cabinet they're working on. They had a couple feet of that stuff laying around.

Kinda funny, I told my brother in law I was looking for copper bus bar for a project, he mentions the 1/2" x 6" stuff, I was like, uh.... a) I'd feel bad taking that, I shudder to think what it costs, and b) that's WAY too big.

I think somewhere like Graybar or similar electrical contractor supply would sell it, if there's one near you. I know in ham radio circles folks buy it for station grounding equipment, usu in like 4-6' lengths.

Looks like 1' of the stuff is about $45 online, or about $11 / battery install:
http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/b-026-250-100-012.html

If you were buying, I'd definitely just get a narrower piece that you don't have to notch down and save some bucks. In reality I'd imagine the aluminum is probably fine. If you're winching across it, eh, maybe, dunno. Hit it with an IR thermometer or something and see, or spray some water on it and see if it sizzles? (Joking about the water test... mostly...)

 

[marius]

Take a short copper pyp ,put a hammer to it and drill two holes in it ,works for me

 

[xodeuce]

Take a short copper pyp ,put a hammer to it and drill two holes in it ,works for me

That was my original plan as well.

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

I looked for copper but could not find. I used a 3/16 piece of steel from Home Depot. cut it, drilled two holes, done.

Jon, it does not move at all I bent the top OEM bracket in a vice.