Where's the Cabin air filter for a 1995 Land Cruiser KZJ73
Where's the Cabin air filter for a 1995 KZJ73 with 3.0 Turbo Diesel. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter PeterUSA
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I don't know how the rear heating and the front heating in your rig interact. (I have no rear heating).
In particular if front- and rear-heating share one heater core. If so, and the rear works good, the issue in the front can't be on the one heater core.
If there are separate heater cores, the one in front may be clogged, though.
With two heater core the question would also be how piping/hoses and controls/valves are setup.
I can't answer that. Maybe @OGBeno can comment on this.
As said by OGBeno: There are basically two metal pipes going through your firewall to the heater core in the dash.
One In, one Out. The In-line usually has a valve on it. My valve is right on top of the firewall in the engine bay, driver side. It is connected to the engine block by a hose. My valve is operated by a wire connected to the heater control in the dash.
Locate the valve and check operation.
The Out-Line comes trough the firewall passenger side and eventually returns to the cooler / connects to the main coolant line somwhere near the thermostat housing / yellow cap.
In my rig (BJ73 LHD) the line takes quite a round trip through the engine bay to get to the front. It is a metal pipe attached on top of the engine next to the exhaust manifold. It is connected with hoses.
Flushing the entire cooling system in theory would also flush the heater, provided the valve is open. In practice most of the flushing would bypass trough the engine and you would move any debris into the cooling circuit. Not so good.
Rather: Disconnect the heater-hose in-line from the valve and plug the hose to the engine. Disconnect the out-hose from the pipe sticking trough the firewall and plug the hose / pipe towards the cooler. Attach a water garden hose to the in-line and a piece of garden hose to the out-line that leads off the engine bay and flush the heater core only. You will see what comes out.
Reconnect the hoses, run engine and observe coolant level. If done carefully you only get very little air into the cooling circuit, loose only as much liquid as the disconnected hoses hold, and just dilute your coolant with water by as much as the heater control and piping holds. Top-up with coolant concentrate and you are good.
Good luck
- Thread starter
- #22
Ok.. I understand. I'll flush Only the Heater Core First. Q: When I flush the Radiator and the rest of the System... Should I block off the Heater Core and run a Bypass.. a Loop back to the engine so as not to get any crap in the Core.I don't know how the rear heating and the front heating in your rig interact. (I have no rear heating).
In particular if front- and rear-heating share one heater core. If so, and the rear works good, the issue in the front can't be on the one heater core.
If there are separate heater cores, the one in front may be clogged, though.
With two heater core the question would also be how piping/hoses and controls/valves are setup.
I can't answer that. Maybe @OGBeno can comment on this.
As said by OGBeno: There are basically two metal pipes going through your firewall to the heater core in the dash.
One In, one Out. The In-line usually has a valve on it. My valve is right on top of the firewall in the engine bay, driver side. It is connected to the engine block by a hose. My valve is operated by a wire connected to the heater control in the dash.
Locate the valve and check operation.
The Out-Line comes trough the firewall passenger side and eventually returns to the cooler / connects to the main coolant line somwhere near the thermostat housing / yellow cap.
In my rig (BJ73 LHD) the line takes quite a round trip through the engine bay to get to the front. It is a metal pipe attached on top of the engine next to the exhaust manifold. It is connected with hoses.
Flushing the entire cooling system in theory would also flush the heater, provided the valve is open. In practice most of the flushing would bypass trough the engine and you would move any debris into the cooling circuit. Not so good.
Rather: Disconnect the heater-hose in-line from the valve and plug the hose to the engine. Disconnect the out-hose from the pipe sticking trough the firewall and plug the hose / pipe towards the cooler. Attach a water garden hose to the in-line and a piece of garden hose to the out-line that leads off the engine bay and flush the heater core only. You will see what comes out.
Reconnect the hoses, run engine and observe coolant level. If done carefully you only get very little air into the cooling circuit, loose only as much liquid as the disconnected hoses hold, and just dilute your coolant with water by as much as the heater control and piping holds. Top-up with coolant concentrate and you are good.
Good luck
The Rear Heater.. I'll let be.. but look to see if the Main hose is not running through Both or separate.
Is it a good idea to replace the Valve ( if I can find one)?
I really appreciate all the Great Information and Help.
I'll update all, either when I complete the work.. or if I Run into a problem I can't figure out.
Regards,
PeterD
There will be a valve somwhere. If it's not leaking and operates smoothly there is no need to replace it. Sometimes they become so stuck that they don't open properly (causing reduced heating) or even the control cable snaps. Some grease helps a lot. It's a mechanical part.
When flushing the engine, just keep the valve closed / heater 'off/cold.. No need to fiddle a bypass.
When flushing the engine, just keep the valve closed / heater 'off/cold.. No need to fiddle a bypass.
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok. .. understood.. Thanks
