Wheeling Dates (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Miescha
- Start date
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$700.00. Wow I thought it would be twice that.
Nope:
Includes straightning and painting, tail lamp was not damaged. It's going in on Monday.
Steve
Includes straightning and painting, tail lamp was not damaged. It's going in on Monday.
Steve
- Thread starter
- #89
I'm shocked it is only $700.
Are you sure that is a reputable repair facility? Is there duct tape involved? Did you see a paint-by-number chart on the wall? Is the paint permanent?
Oh well, I'm glad it worked out at only $700 - that's just $150 shy of sliders that would have saved your butt by allowing you to go over the rock instead of around it so close to the dang trees
.
Wait a minute, I've got at least one dead tire and maybe two ($200 each so maybe $400), another $60 or so for the flippin antenna, at least $300 for the exhaust damage I found today while trying to get the dang running boards off (cat may be toast) so my bill is floating around $500-$800 and I'm not even counting the dead running boards. In fact, I think I should not count the tires either as I was planning to replace them in the fall anyway. For that matter, I wanted to reroute the exhaust too (any recommendations on a good shop?).
Now that I think about it, I should be thankful the antenna came off - I'll just call it product testing and figure its better to find out now than later when I don't have a spare (but I did have a spare so no worries for the way home).
Maybe I should just start looking at these trips as opportunities to find areas in need of improvement.
Are you sure that is a reputable repair facility? Is there duct tape involved? Did you see a paint-by-number chart on the wall? Is the paint permanent?
Oh well, I'm glad it worked out at only $700 - that's just $150 shy of sliders that would have saved your butt by allowing you to go over the rock instead of around it so close to the dang trees
.Wait a minute, I've got at least one dead tire and maybe two ($200 each so maybe $400), another $60 or so for the flippin antenna, at least $300 for the exhaust damage I found today while trying to get the dang running boards off (cat may be toast) so my bill is floating around $500-$800 and I'm not even counting the dead running boards. In fact, I think I should not count the tires either as I was planning to replace them in the fall anyway. For that matter, I wanted to reroute the exhaust too (any recommendations on a good shop?).
Now that I think about it, I should be thankful the antenna came off - I'll just call it product testing and figure its better to find out now than later when I don't have a spare (but I did have a spare so no worries for the way home
).Maybe I should just start looking at these trips as opportunities to find areas in need of improvement.
Miescha,
I'll raise you a major coolant leak.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/239811-drivers-side-coolant-leak.html#post3636810
I'll raise you a major coolant leak.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/239811-drivers-side-coolant-leak.html#post3636810
all the pics are up now guys.
Mrs X
ohsewgood/Washita off road park - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Mrs X
ohsewgood/Washita off road park - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
- Thread starter
- #93
Too rich for my blood - I'm out (I hope).
Though if this started last week with no coolant in the resevoir, I'm not sure it counts as wheeling carnage - but I'm still out. My stuff is all pretty simple and easily fixed, unlike STLCruiser's quarter panel or your leak. I'm just unbolting running boards, bolting on sliders, buying tires (for someone else to balance and mount) and ordering an antenna (for which I already have a replacement in-place). No heavy work on my part or my wallet (hopefully).
Per the other thread - I've got the silicone hose and constant tension clamps for the PHH and FHH if they turn out to be the culprit (despite your beliefs) and you can't wait for an order to be shipped in.
Let me know when you are making the change - I suggest prior to Flat Nasty
Too rich for my blood - I'm out (I hope).
Per the other thread - I've got the silicone hose and constant tension clamps for the PHH and FHH if they turn out to be the culprit (despite your beliefs) and you can't wait for an order to be shipped in.
Let me know when you are making the change - I suggest prior to Flat Nasty
Actually I can't wait. No spare cars in the family, and I think I have a ticking coolant timebomb on my hands. I don't want to have a full blowout on the way to a firecall.
Tomorrow night after work MoJ and I are going in through the wheelwell to replace the PHH. Further investigation revealed, the PHH is shooting a perfect stream right at the corrugated hose split.
I was going with MoJ's Gates Green Stripe and the best clamps avail in town.
- Thread starter
- #95
Check with STLCruiser also - I vaguely recall that he ordered the PHH blue silicone in bulk and might have plenty left that you can cut to size - then you just need clamps.
I have green silocone and constant clamps if you need them. Did mine 60,000 miles ago and all is well. Make sure you disconnect the small hose going into the heater control valve from the pipe near the firewall and loosen the one bolt that will allow you to pivot the pipe in order for you to get the new hose PHH on.
Not that bad of job to do.
Steve
Not that bad of job to do.
Steve
Mission Impossible for any tools on premise, at Lowe's, and in MoJ's arsenal. Gearwrench, swivel gearwrenches, sockets, swivel 3/8" drive with extensions and wobblers.
It can't be reached by modern man or equipment without EGR tube removal, intake manifold removal, diverter valve assy removal.
A 90 gear drive socket is the only thing I can think of that may work. We tried in vain for hours to get a turn on a wrench while on that bolt. We could get the wrench on, but not enough room to turn it. EGR tube in the way, diverter valve in the way, harnesses in the way.
How on earth did you loosen it?
I only took off the top bolt which is readily accessable. The one that has the tab welded to it. After that was removed along with the small hose going to the diverter valve and the PHH, the pipe was able to pivot without loosing the lower bolt. I think the lower bolt just holds a clamp that keeps the pipe snug with the engine but will allow it to pivot.
Steve
Steve
My lower nut was too night to allow it to swivel. I torqued the bracket a little trying to remove the OEM PHH. The PHH was "glued" to the pipe. Does anyone have a 90 degree, head for a socket? The angle is too acute to get a wobbler to work. I should have kept everything bolted together when removing the OEM PHH. I think it would have helped keep things aligned.
MoJ
Moderator
I bought one similar to this yesterday at Menard's. The one I bought is just a Chinese cheapy but I figured for $5 it would come in handy some time (like in your garage at midnight). It's about twice as long as the 12mm swivel head gear wrench we were trying so I think it would reach.
If it works for that lower bolt I think it would be a super fast way to change the PHH.
Detach old PHH at the head
Detach hose connecting to heater valve
Remove upper/lower down pipe bolts
Pull the pipe out with the PHH on it.
Put a new PHH on
Put itall back together.
$12 at Northern Tool
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