One of the first modifications I will do on my LX is tires and possibly wheels: ideally I was going to downsize to 17” or possibly 18” wheels to have more sidewall and open up tire size options around the 34” range. I am having difficulty finding much good info on wheel weight etc. ideally I would lower the wheel weight to account for heavier tires within reason as well as stay in the +25 to +35mm range for minimal modifications. Anyone have information on good options for strong but lighter wheels that aren’t $900+ per corner like rays etc. When I look at things like method 701 wheels they seem to range by around 6 lbs per wheel depending on the sight for the same diameter/width.
Wheel weight questions
- Thread starter squatchlx
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To go to a 34” will require fairly substantial mods. With a 33” it will be minimal. A few of us on here are running Alpha Equipt. They come in a 17” +35 offset and 18” +25.
Looks like tire rack still has some of the 17” on close out. You will have to pick a tundra on the tire rack Site. Here they are on my ‘13 LX.
Looks like tire rack still has some of the 17” on close out. You will have to pick a tundra on the tire rack Site. Here they are on my ‘13 LX.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Keep an eye our for a decent set of used TRD Rock Warrior wheels. They are harder to find deals on…but are virtually unbeatable in the weight-to-strength ratio.
If you’re near San Diego, I happen to have an extra set available right now. Otherwise, poke around craigslist in your area. Fantastic wheels that would be on a ton more Cruisers were they still in production. Actually they’re on a ton still snyway because they are that good (including mine).
If you’re near San Diego, I happen to have an extra set available right now. Otherwise, poke around craigslist in your area. Fantastic wheels that would be on a ton more Cruisers were they still in production. Actually they’re on a ton still snyway because they are that good (including mine).
- Thread starter
- #5
Good to know I will have to research the mods for 34” more then (I was considering things such as 285/75r17) but I will look into that. I plan on also putting sliders on very soon so that would likely deal with mudflat and rear moulding clearance. I plan on heating and pushing lines forward etc on the front (might do a bumper next year mainly due to animal protection as there are deer everywhere here). I like the idea of the kenda skinny’s but that would probably be worse. See a couple threads to read on those.
Not sure, I can tell you though I’m running 285/70-17, That measure out to ~32.5” on the LX. I had to Push out the rear portion of the front mud flap 2”. With less offset it would have needed more work. If you are willing to totally remove the front flaps and do more work and sensor lift 34 could work
There are several folks running 34" with just the 3/4 spacer and heat gun bend on the front mud flap, or removal of the front mud flap.
Mine measure at 33.98" and then you can either just remove the front mud flap or heat it up with a heat gun so the rear swing on the front tires clear.
There is a 34 vs 35 tire thread on all the differences needed.
Even chains clear on the rear tires with 34's.
Over 34's then the UCA (upper control arm) is needed for caster or camber? Think it's caster.
Mine measure at 33.98" and then you can either just remove the front mud flap or heat it up with a heat gun so the rear swing on the front tires clear.
There is a 34 vs 35 tire thread on all the differences needed.
Even chains clear on the rear tires with 34's.
Over 34's then the UCA (upper control arm) is needed for caster or camber? Think it's caster.
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I run 34s (285/75r17) on RWs with no extra spacer (ET 50). I had to push the front liner forward and i removed the mud flap in the rear. I didn't do the "taking the liner out and bending the tab back to make more room" thing, but that is the next option. For reference, since this thread is about weight, my wheel/tire combo weighed in at about 84lbs. I've read that stock is just under 80, but i forgot to weigh one. Wheel options are pretty limited so I wouldn't get too hung up on it. I'd be more concerned about wheel strength and your preferred offset.
UCAs are needed for suspension lift, not larger tires. I know to some degree those two things are married, but it's the lift that requires the UCA. Bigger than 34" tires means you may need a body mount chop (shave? to make it not sound so scary) for the body mount behind the front wheels. The other concern is a 35" spare won't fit in the standard location.
People are running 35s in the LX without UCAs, just +35 offsets and shaping of the liners. I was planning to go to 35s but then I'd have to regear.
That's weird, the two sets of 285/70/17 that I've had haven't rub on mine.
- Thread starter
- #10
Yeah weight was my main question to see where people are with similar sizes that I am thinking. It seems that there are some decent options around 26lbs for the wheel alone. The stock one I have is just shy of 80lbs wheel and tire on a bathroom scale. That seems decent around 84lbs as I know some people in Tacoma/tundras/4Runners go up 15+lbs per corner and that starts to really effect braking etc. I don’t want to start getting into gearing etc.
What offset wheel? Mine probably wouldn’t have rubbed with Rws
bloc
SILVER Star
Just do your research on load rating. Not all wheels can handle the heft of a 200.
Mine are rock warriors so +50
I’m on a +35 had a fairly significant rub prior to heat gun/zip ties starting about half way.
I'm not sure how some here are fitting 35s with +35 wheel offsets if you're rubbing this much with less than 33s. Perhaps there's a lot of space to adjust / reshape the liners plus the removal of the mud flaps?
I don’t have the front wheel mud flaps anymore. Those come off pretty easily.
I think if you want to preserve some potion of that mud flap you’re in for a lot of heat molding.
I think if you want to preserve some potion of that mud flap you’re in for a lot of heat molding.
All my molding was mud flap. Wouldn’t have had to do any if I would have taken them off. I still may. Only reason I kept them is when I head up the Dalton highway with the less offset (+35) my paint gets hammered.
I wouldn't worry about what is ultimately minor weight there. Sure, rotational mass, but that's a sports car optimization where accel/decel is more dynamic. Weight in a wheel is structure and structure on a heavy 200-series is necessary. There's also an odd inordinate focus on wheel weights on this board. That is then assumed to be a big impact to MPG, which is not very correct.
The bulge there in the mudflap where @coleAK shows rubbing is superficial. Trick is to take the hump out of the profile and pin it back.
With wide 35s, the contact is not superficial and requires massaging metal. Namely BMC and an inner step bracket bent back. You can see in the lower picture "drill and screw" how my mudflap is pinned back, probably by ~1.5". More details can be found in the first link of my sig.
