Wheel Spacers on a 100

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Medic, make sure you get the spacers before the tires are installed. The strike face of the steering knuckle will do permanent damage to the front two tires if you install them before the spacers go on. I went through that process a few months ago, not cool.

Tires are sitting here waiting to go on. 1" wheel spacers from JT will be here on tuesday. So, tomorrow I will be cranking the front up. Tuesday, I will be installing the whole new setup. The wifey's gonna love it!

I remember reading a post somewhere talking about (i think) the minimum width a spacer should be (should one use them) and not having the need to file down the studs. Can someone here correct me?

Also, with a stock rim ( in my case stock 18's), I'm thinking about possibly getting the duratracs in the 275/70/18 size. Does anyone know what size spacer may be required to make the rim/tire sit "flush" to the edge of the fender?

Also, does anyone make hub-centric spacers for our 100's?

I went with 1". I had the guys at JT look into it because I wanted to run the smallest bolt on wheel spacer I could. I was gonna get the Hub centric ones for like 420 ish shipped. I was told that they arent needed so I went with what everyone else is running.

Per Eibach's website, they have hubcentric spacers for the 100 series, in 25mm and 30mm thicknesses. Word of caution... the pic shows a 5-lug spacer, but the spec states 6-lugs. Perhaps someone at Eibach could clarify.

Havent seen anyone running these so I went thru JT
 
I think I already know the answer to this.....

You need to get an alignment after installing spacers.... Right?? Need to do some work and will need to get an alignment after. But, want to wait until I get spacers installed to do everything...
 
No need to get realigned just for installing wheel spacer adapters. This assumes there were no alignment issues to address before adding the wheel spacers ;).

Raising/lowering the front height OTOH, more than a small amount (~ 1/2") in the name of leveling off/fine tuning, should be reason to have the alignment checked.
 
Thanks Dan!

I need to get re-aligned because both tires seem to be rubbing on my new TC UCA's. DS barely and PS has a bare metal spot. I also have to pull the driver's side UCA because being the monkey I am... Managed to break one of the zirk fitting trying to adjust it... Doh! If the weather is good, I am going to pull everything tomorrow.
 
Thanks Dan!

I need to get re-aligned because both tires seem to be rubbing on my new TC UCA's. DS barely and PS has a bare metal spot. I also have to pull the driver's side UCA because being the monkey I am... Managed to break one of the zirk fitting trying to adjust it... Doh! If the weather is good, I am going to pull everything tomorrow.

Take a white or yellow grease pencil/crayon and mark reference marks on the cam plates and frame brackets, before you remove your front UCA, so at least you can get the caster/camber back in the ballpark upon reassembly...
 
Thanks Dan!

I need to get re-aligned because both tires seem to be rubbing on my new TC UCA's. DS barely and PS has a bare metal spot. I also have to pull the driver's side UCA because being the monkey I am... Managed to break one of the zirk fitting trying to adjust it... Doh! If the weather is good, I am going to pull everything tomorrow.


I needed to use a tap to clean the threaded holes for the Zert fittings on my TC UCA’s
I could only get about 1 ½ turns before they were too tight.
Not sure if the powder coating was the problem or just bad tapping when they were made. I used a good quality tap and chased the treads and the zerts went in like they were supposed to.

Ken
 
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