What’s up with my ‘76 2f valve train? (1 Viewer)

Shark56

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I'm gonna say no. The rotor should be pointing more towards #4 plug in my opinion. If you think it is actually out by 180. Switch the #1 wire to # 6. 2 to 5 ect. If it fires then you are out by 180.
But if the dizzy is off by a couple teeth either way it won't fire at all. It will sound like it is trying.
 

Shark56

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I apologize for the crooked line..😃

20200604_213214.jpg
 
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The biggest problem I see is that the PO probably installed the dizzy differently because the vac port on the advance interferes with the oil filter:cooler setup. I’m not sure how I’m going to address this yet...

2627A149-D884-4D3E-85B3-409210C3A485.jpeg


1D186F2C-3512-4EFC-9856-1804D670CBB5.jpeg
 

Dizzy

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With OEM oil filter (much smaller) and a City Racer non-USA Distributor. I don't have a need for an oil cooler. The plug wires keep their distance with one of those clips that came with a new Denso set of wires (not pictured), but the old Car Quest wires had less measured resistance on the 1,2,5, and 6 wires, and were a better length, so I used four of those wires, with a couple of Nippon Denso wires.

GEDC1661.JPG
 

Steamer

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The biggest problem I see is that the PO probably installed the dizzy differently because the vac port on the advance interferes with the oil filter:cooler setup. I’m not sure how I’m going to address this yet...

Keep in mind it is the position relationship of the rotor to dizzy body that controls the timing. So, you can reposition the whole setup to suit your clearance preferences. If the rotor to body relationship ends up the same, so will your timing. There are 13 teeth on the rotor shaft gear so rotating one tooth will be just a tad under 28 degrees.

Also, without removing the dizzy, you can rotate the wires on the cap and then rotate the body (opposite direction) to match. With 6 wires, each wire position change will rotate the body 60 degrees. This method works fine but the numbers on the cap will not correlate with the spark plug numbers. I don’t like this as it can get confusing later on doing service work.

Bottom line, when at TDC compression, the rotor needs to point just a tad before the cap terminal wired to # 1 spark plug.
 

4Cruisers

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The biggest problem I see is that the PO probably installed the dizzy differently because the vac port on the advance interferes with the oil filter:cooler setup. I’m not sure how I’m going to address this yet...
Simple, I've got quite a few brand new NipponDenso vacuum advancers that are a direct swap without modifications. They have an almost identical vacuum advance curve to your advancer. I haven't posted them in the For Sale forum yet, but they'll solve your clearance issue. I'll post some photos in a few minutes.
 

4Cruisers

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I've also got a very good used aftermarket advancer similar to the advancer used in the common non-US 19100-61150 extra small cap distributor. It's pretty much the distributor you have in the FJ55 now.

The first photo is the used aftermarket advancer, I'm pretty sure it's made in Japan by Century. The second photo is my 19100-61150 non-US distributor original marketed by TPI - it shows an almost identical OEM advancer installed.

PM me if interested. I can also post photos of one of the similar new NipponDenso advancers.

Aftermarket-Advancer.jpg


Non-US-Distributor.jpg
 

Pighead

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The biggest problem I see is that the PO probably installed the dizzy differently because the vac port on the advance interferes with the oil filter:cooler setup. I’m not sure how I’m going to address this yet...

View attachment 2329967

View attachment 2329968
Yup, had to perform that same maneuver when I put a '69 distributor into my late F engine. Just "clocked" the dizzy a tooth or two (CCW IIRC) to clear the vacuum unit.
As Steamer said, you can position your dizzy body any way you need to, just understand what you are doing...
 
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So, if you, for example, place the #1 wire into the #4 position (60 deg ccw, and same with other wires) then you could rotate the body 60 deg clockwise, set timing, and good to go?

Keep in mind it is the position relationship of the rotor to dizzy body that controls the timing. So, you can reposition the whole setup to suit your clearance preferences. If the rotor to body relationship ends up the same, so will your timing. There are 13 teeth on the rotor shaft gear so rotating one tooth will be just a tad under 28 degrees.

Also, without removing the dizzy, you can rotate the wires on the cap and then rotate the body (opposite direction) to match. With 6 wires, each wire position change will rotate the body 60 degrees.
 

Dizzy

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Just keep them in order, and keep the rotor pointing at the correct one; and, keep track of them.

Is it a plumbing problem on the advancer, or, what is exactly the conflict?

I don't trust uninspected old centrifugal advance assemblies, especially with non-igniter-coil points creating a bunch of ozone gas, but, life isn't just a trail cleared and paved by a shopping list either.
 

4Cruisers

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Today I'll start the refurbish of a '75 2F distributor, 19100-61020, same as the '76 distributor that originally came in your FJ55. As part of the refurbish I'll be installing a new NipponDenso vacuum advancer. PM me if interested.
 
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Advancer plumbing is in the way (see photo).
C1524752-E895-4EDB-A75F-A59D9890BA81.jpeg
Just keep them in order, and keep the rotor pointing at the correct one; and, keep track of them.

Is it a plumbing problem on the advancer, or, what is exactly the conflict?

I don't trust uninspected old centrifugal advance assemblies, especially with non-igniter-coil points creating a bunch of ozone gas, but, life isn't just a trail cleared and paved by a shopping list either.
 

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