The biggest problem I see is that the PO probably installed the dizzy differently because the vac port on the advance interferes with the oil filter:cooler setup. I’m not sure how I’m going to address this yet...
Simple, I've got quite a few brand new NipponDenso vacuum advancers that are a direct swap without modifications. They have an almost identical vacuum advance curve to your advancer. I haven't posted them in the For Sale forum yet, but they'll solve your clearance issue. I'll post some photos in a few minutes.The biggest problem I see is that the PO probably installed the dizzy differently because the vac port on the advance interferes with the oil filter:cooler setup. I’m not sure how I’m going to address this yet...
Yup, had to perform that same maneuver when I put a '69 distributor into my late F engine. Just "clocked" the dizzy a tooth or two (CCW IIRC) to clear the vacuum unit.
Keep in mind it is the position relationship of the rotor to dizzy body that controls the timing. So, you can reposition the whole setup to suit your clearance preferences. If the rotor to body relationship ends up the same, so will your timing. There are 13 teeth on the rotor shaft gear so rotating one tooth will be just a tad under 28 degrees.
Also, without removing the dizzy, you can rotate the wires on the cap and then rotate the body (opposite direction) to match. With 6 wires, each wire position change will rotate the body 60 degrees.
Just keep them in order, and keep the rotor pointing at the correct one; and, keep track of them.
Is it a plumbing problem on the advancer, or, what is exactly the conflict?
I don't trust uninspected old centrifugal advance assemblies, especially with non-igniter-coil points creating a bunch of ozone gas, but, life isn't just a trail cleared and paved by a shopping list either.