Flushed/bled clutch, reattached coil sense wire for fuel injection, found solenoid and bendix loose on starter, fixed coolant leak. Flipped rear hangers, redrilled shackles to level again, need to do shock mounts for the rear axle and still need to do inner axle seals but they can wait.
Whatchu Workin' On?
- Thread starter Fitzgerald
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Well sounds like your all finished up. Maybe when you have time you can pop in and figure out what is wrong with mine. Since your not that far away.lol
Have a spare battery from another vehicle? I would be very surprised if that is typical. Is it a wet cell or gel/agm? Bad battery could do some wierd stuff, but you expect the alternator to keep it alive while running. Could put a volt meter or clamp ampmeter on the terminal to see if the battery is pulling it down. Otherwise I would expect a current draw big enough to pull the voltage down with the batt and alternator to smoke something. Tracking intermittent is bad enough, intermittent electrical is a pain.
I think I'm going to pull the new primary battery (AGM deep cycle) and put in the second battery in its place to see if that makes a difference. Having a hard time understanding how this could be causing the intermittant dash lights though.
I have to agree on the dash lights, if the fuse blowing was just the lights and you found that piece of harness jacked, what are the odds for bad ground? I chased on on my old Dodge that ended up being on the back of the head, was ground for the communication line or some hooplah. The only thing that would have made me change the battery was a hot terminal that was already cleaned.
That hot terminal is really odd. switching batteries is a great idea. I will drive to do some more camping and fishing tonight, I'll text you if my battery terminal is hot. Hopefully that is not an AGM feature as I have had my Deka for a little over a year now..haha. Seems possible that it could be a loose/corroded ground.
You said deep cycle. Is it an actual deep cycle or dual purpose crank/deep cycle? True single purpose deep cycles are not designed for regular cranking, as I understand.
You said deep cycle. Is it an actual deep cycle or dual purpose crank/deep cycle? True single purpose deep cycles are not designed for regular cranking, as I understand.
It's an Autocraft Platinum AGM from Advance Auto. It's recommended as a primary battery and I think it's made by the same company as Deka.
Regarding the hot terminal - I think there are three or four possible causes:
1. High resistance connection at battery. Unlikely due to new battery, but I'll check & clean it anyway since it's easy. Multimeter between center of battery post and fusible link stud shows no resistance.
2. Battery fault - swapping battery and getting the suspect battery load tested should resolve this
3. To much current to battery
3a. Bad voltage regulator
3b. Positive to ground somewhere in the system. But considering the amount of current required to heat up the battery post & clamp that much, I'd be very surprised that this wouldn't have already started a fire, burnt out the wire or something else noticeable at this point.
I'd think that #3 would show up on the dash ammeter. Will see if the auto parts store has one of those clamp amp meters that I could borrow to check it out
Regarding the hot terminal - I think there are three or four possible causes:
1. High resistance connection at battery. Unlikely due to new battery, but I'll check & clean it anyway since it's easy. Multimeter between center of battery post and fusible link stud shows no resistance.
2. Battery fault - swapping battery and getting the suspect battery load tested should resolve this
3. To much current to battery
3a. Bad voltage regulator
3b. Positive to ground somewhere in the system. But considering the amount of current required to heat up the battery post & clamp that much, I'd be very surprised that this wouldn't have already started a fire, burnt out the wire or something else noticeable at this point.
I'd think that #3 would show up on the dash ammeter. Will see if the auto parts store has one of those clamp amp meters that I could borrow to check it out
Finished with the table!
That table came out AWESOME! I love the pistons and rods to support the top. Great work!
Wife got me a snorkel 4 months ago. I had one on a couple previous Jeeps.
This weekend I finally nutted up and cut into the fender. Turned out great.
Measure twice....cut once.
This weekend I finally nutted up and cut into the fender. Turned out great.
Measure twice....cut once.
P
Got rid of some other stickers because I value my friends and their ways of life
I don't have a smart car...haha ... the new one is a better sticker anyway. Also like the CNP sticker
. I still smile thinking about that trip.Took down our deck on Sat. so I have some nice scrap lumber for the taking 4x4, 2x6, 2x10 etc, just let me know.
I hope so. More money that I want to spend, of course- but up here, you only get a limited amount of warm weather, so we wanted a "three season" deck. Going to put up canvas draw curtains and have a heater.
'88 Isuzu Trooper II. Finally got it titled and registered last week, after getting the MO Safety Inspection done last time I was home (March). Replaced two CV axles, installed new shocks and manual locking hubs.
Took TJ out for some driving time on country roads, and a wee bit of two-track dirt trail.
Took TJ out for some driving time on country roads, and a wee bit of two-track dirt trail.
The end of my electrical saga maybe? Drove up to Fort Collins and back today towing a trailer. No lights, no hot terminal.
I found yesterday that what was really getting hot was the post on the fuse holder for the 150A fuse between the alternator and battery. Clamp ammeter showed reasonable current at idle and 3K rpm - on the order of 25A. So I pulled the fuse and inspected it, checked resistance, etc. Seems fine. But another short drive and it was burning hot again!? So I swapped it for a spare and drove 250 miles, cable stayed cool.
No idea what's up with that fuse. Maybe a crack that opens up when it warms up? Going to drill out the rivets holding it together and take a look.
I found yesterday that what was really getting hot was the post on the fuse holder for the 150A fuse between the alternator and battery. Clamp ammeter showed reasonable current at idle and 3K rpm - on the order of 25A. So I pulled the fuse and inspected it, checked resistance, etc. Seems fine. But another short drive and it was burning hot again!? So I swapped it for a spare and drove 250 miles, cable stayed cool.
No idea what's up with that fuse. Maybe a crack that opens up when it warms up? Going to drill out the rivets holding it together and take a look.
Ordered new O-Ring seals for my rear ARB locker. Got oil residue on the solenoid for the rear, which means they are jacked up and need to be replaced. Part of the reason my rear locker was so finicky in Moab and OCG. Hopefully will solve the issue.