What tread depth is still safe for rainy weather?

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I’ve heard that when tread depth reaches 3/32”, it’s time to replace tires. And for rainy conditions, better to replace them at or before they wear down to 4/32”. And, of course, with new tires, stopping distance in the rain would be “better” than if one had tires with 4/32” tread left.

Just viewed this video by Lexus...

https://www.lexustirecenter.com/?uid...0E250DA7861DA9

I understand that they are trying to sell tires. And I’m not trying to “maximize” the life of my existing tires by waiting until the recommended dimensions in my first paragraph (gleaned from several tire retail websites). But seeing the stopping distances in the Lexus video was surprising, to me at least.

Heck, if there’s _that_ much difference in stopping distances in the rain, I would replace a set of $800 - $1,000 tires when the get down to 50% wear. Smacking into the rear of a vehicle, even with minor damage, would probably raise my insurance rates by at least that much, not to mention damage to my front end.

Your thoughts?

Cheers,
John
 
I do what you’re suggesting for the reason you’ve pointed out, why smack into something because of so-so tires? I typically start shopping at 6/32”.
 
I do exactly the same. By 50% wear, all tires get noisy and start losing their grip. That's when I get a new set of tires, and sell the old one for $100-200 to partially offset cost of new tires.
 
It also depends on the type of Tire. Lots of the more aggressive off-road tires degrade on road wet road performance MUCH worse with wear than passenger radials. I usually replace my tires well before they get to the wear bars because of this.
 
I have a similar process as others have mentioned. For winter tires I replace at 40-50% of tread remaining or after 5 years whichever comes first. For summer tires I don’t worry as much about age, on our cars I replace at 30-40% and the AT tires on my LX 40-50% as I off road often.
 
Thanks for the replies, all. Lol, maybe instead of rotating my tires this weekend I should start shopping for new tires. I’m waiting on a tire depth gauge to come from Amazon but given your replies, I just measured the tread depth on my Grandtrek P3TA’s with a metal ruler and they seem to be around 7/32” or a bit more. Measured my wife’s new Dueler H/T’s and they measure about 11/32” or 12/32”.

Before I buy new tires for some 18” rims off of a 2020 LC, I’ll need to get some TPMS sensors. Leaning towards just getting these from a Lexus dealer for around $62 each.

What about that video? Is there that much difference in the stopping distances? Wow.

Cheers,
John
 
I think it depends on how fast/aggressive one wants to drive, how hard it's raining, or how much standing water there is. There's other variables of specific tire model and tire size, etc.

The guidance above is safe and not wrong. On my sports cars, I'll drive on tires until they're literally slicks. As they wear out in 10-20k miles. I'd never let family drive them like that though. I find truck AT tires to last so friggen long by comparison, I'm happy to move onto the next set well before I'm at tread limits.
 
Discount tire will check your tire depth for free. They will also sell you tires. Have been buying at Discount for forty years and they will match Costco price.
I like the Michelin Defender LTX M/S for our Colorado driving. This tire is good in snow but is designed more for the rain condition you are discussing.
Years back they did a thing called "Sipping" Basically slice more groove in the tire. Now manufacturers are doing this on their tires.
Side note. When we bought our cruiser 2003 had Bridegestone Dueler AT great tires. Then tried Micheling LTX M/S . They went 60K but I did not link the way they handled on mountain passes on the curves. A DBL wash would occur on the snow going around hairpin turns or tight corner. This would cause a slight slip on the snow or ice. The next set of tires I discussed this with Discount and they recommended a heavier side wall tire, 10 Ply as opposed to 6 PLY.
Sure enough this took care of the DBL wash out. The ride is a little stiffer but the tires lasted 100,000 miles. Put another set of the same Michelin LTX M/S now called the Defender. They to are wearing well and will probably out last the vehicle maybe. That was one of the main reasons for doing head gasket after it went last winter. The other is its a 1997 80 with lockers now at 286,00 miles and purring like a sewing machine.
Now I need to fix dash lights but hey that's normal.
Cost difference 650$ 6 ply . 1000$ for 10 ply. To me worth the better ride and stronger side walls. Especially for really 4 wheeling.
 
...... Cost difference 650$ 6 ply . 1000$ for 10 ply. To me worth the better ride and stronger side walls. Especially for really 4 wheeling.

Which are the 10-ply? The Michelin Defender LTX M/S? I couldn’t find such info in a quick search.

IIRC, our 96 LC, 2001 LX, and 2003 LC all came with LTX M/S. And I’ve always replaced them with same (or the LTX M/X 2) and have been happy with them. My new (to me) LX came with the 21” Dunlop Grandtrek PT3A. With a replacement cost of nearly $500 each and the harsher ride over Los Angeles potholes, I’m looking forward to getting some Michelin Defender LTX M/S 285/60R18. Will be easier on the wallet as well as my rear end (butt) and more suited to the occasional off-road journeys. For anything more adventurous, I’ll likely take the 1996 or 2003 LC.

Cheers,
John
 
:beer:
Thanks for the replies, all. Lol, maybe instead of rotating my tires this weekend I should start shopping for new tires. I’m waiting on a tire depth gauge to come from Amazon but given your replies, I just measured the tread depth on my Grandtrek P3TA’s with a metal ruler and they seem to be around 7/32” or a bit more. Measured my wife’s new Dueler H/T’s and they measure about 11/32” or 12/32”.

Before I buy new tires for some 18” rims off of a 2020 LC, I’ll need to get some TPMS sensors. Leaning towards just getting these from a Lexus dealer for around $62 each.

What about that video? Is there that much difference in the stopping distances? Wow.

Cheers,
John
No amount of tread is safe on the grand treks. Replace asap.:beer:
 
No amount of tread is safe on the grand treks. Replace asap.:beer:

Lol! Sounds like a good plan. Although they couldn’t be that bad or Lexus wouldn’t put them on for reviewers to test. Or am I missing something?

I like what you’v done to your 2009 LX570. Nice.

Cheers,
John
 
Discount tire will check your tire depth for free. They will also sell you tires. Have been buying at Discount for forty years and they will match Costco price.
I like the Michelin Defender LTX M/S for our Colorado driving. This tire is good in snow but is designed more for the rain condition you are discussing.
Years back they did a thing called "Sipping" Basically slice more groove in the tire. Now manufacturers are doing this on their tires.
Side note. When we bought our cruiser 2003 had Bridegestone Dueler AT great tires. Then tried Micheling LTX M/S . They went 60K but I did not link the way they handled on mountain passes on the curves. A DBL wash would occur on the snow going around hairpin turns or tight corner. This would cause a slight slip on the snow or ice. The next set of tires I discussed this with Discount and they recommended a heavier side wall tire, 10 Ply as opposed to 6 PLY.
Sure enough this took care of the DBL wash out. The ride is a little stiffer but the tires lasted 100,000 miles. Put another set of the same Michelin LTX M/S now called the Defender. They to are wearing well and will probably out last the vehicle maybe. That was one of the main reasons for doing head gasket after it went last winter. The other is its a 1997 80 with lockers now at 286,00 miles and purring like a sewing machine.
Now I need to fix dash lights but hey that's normal.
Cost difference 650$ 6 ply . 1000$ for 10 ply. To me worth the better ride and stronger side walls. Especially for really 4 wheeling.

Could you expand on what “DBL wash” is? I’ve never heard the term before.
 
Lol! Sounds like a good plan. Although they couldn’t be that bad or Lexus wouldn’t put them on for reviewers to test. Or am I missing something?

I like what you’v done to your 2009 LX570. Nice.

Cheers,
John
yeah, they're famously bad, particularly hydroplanning.

And thanks!

On TPMS they should transfer over, the alloy rim angle I think works on all Toyota/Lexus OEM wheels.

I have a big collection of the Tundra 18s I got off CL over time and if you aren't appearance oriented they are definitely the cheapest way to get into an 18" rim.

If you are buying new rims I'd suggest a 17", in the Evo Corse or similar. Lots of threads on this, but the summary is 17" tires are cheaper and available in more sizes that fit the 200 (32" to 34+"), the rim/tire combo will be lighter, and you get more delicious sidewall in all diameters (as the rim is less of the overall diameter).
 
Which are the 10-ply? The Michelin Defender LTX M/S? I couldn’t find such info in a quick search.

IIRC, our 96 LC, 2001 LX, and 2003 LC all came with LTX M/S. And I’ve always replaced them with same (or the LTX M/X 2) and have been happy with them. My new (to me) LX came with the 21” Dunlop Grandtrek PT3A. With a replacement cost of nearly $500 each and the harsher ride over Los Angeles potholes, I’m looking forward to getting some Michelin Defender LTX M/S 285/60R18. Will be easier on the wallet as well as my rear end (butt) and more suited to the occasional off-road journeys. For anything more adventurous, I’ll likely take the 1996 or 2003 LC.

Cheers,
John
Hi John.
The Michelin Defender or LTX M/S comes in both sidewall types. The 10 ply is generally used for the large Trucks and SUV's. Like F250 or Yukon etc.
It is generally not brought up at purchase time unless you ask a few more questions. We generally forget that the Land Cruiser is a 6000LB beast since it rides so nice and handles like a sports car. I see many Cruisers in CO that have the Michelin LTX . The tire specs show the difference in sidewall construction.
Hope this helps.
 
Could you expand on what “DBL wash” is? I’ve never heard the term before.
Good Day *bloc,
The term DBL wash is my own made up term for the tires squishing as weight is applied to the outside tire on a turn. When the turn is initiated, the tires grab the surface, asphalt, snow, ice etc. AS the weight of the vehicle is loaded on the turn, the Momentum or inertia squeezes the sidewall. This squeezing of the side wall creates this DBL wash feeling or lose of traction. Kind of like something top heavy finally pushing over the pile
If you are a skier you can relate it shifting of your weight in the ski turn. My best Common sense explanation from a ski bum.
As noted above we forget that the Cruiser is a heavy truck. Load it with ski gear, passengers or camping gear etc , you have a pretty heavy rig. It now is in the area of a large truck or SUV.
This is one of the advantages of the 10 ply sidewall tire. The other is the tire seems to be made better and thus you get more miles out of the tread wear. I have consistently take them down to the wear bars on the tires.
I use the Michelin Defender LTX M/S on our other Toyota's too, 1998 T100 and 2005 Highlander. The difference is that I use the standard 6 ply side wall on these vehicle. Both vehicles are quite about lighter than a Cruiser.
Stay safe and enjoy the ride.
 
Hi John.
The Michelin Defender or LTX M/S comes in both sidewall types. The 10 ply is generally used for the large Trucks and SUV's. Like F250 or Yukon etc.
It is generally not brought up at purchase time unless you ask a few more questions. We generally forget that the Land Cruiser is a 6000LB beast since it rides so nice and handles like a sports car. I see many Cruisers in CO that have the Michelin LTX . The tire specs show the difference in sidewall construction.
Hope this helps.
I’ll agree the 200 has a nice comfortable ride. But in no way shape or form of ride or handling is it anywhere close to a sports car.
 
I’ll agree the 200 has a nice comfortable ride. But in no way shape or form of ride or handling is it anywhere close to a sports car.
Hi Cole AK
Having never owned a sports car, the land Cruiser is the best car I have ever driven. Not to be misleading but I will never forget the story about a person coming to Denver from Aspen at the Toyota dealer. Took out a LC for a test drive and drove up Deer Creek canyon in the foothills as fast as possible to see how it handled. The sales person came back startled and the person bought the Cruiser.
So yes I admit being wrong about the sports car but not many of us drive on race courses. or only paved smooth surfaces. Don't think a sports car would handle like a LC on ice, snow, dirt or loaded down like a LC.
Enjoy the sports cars and maybe I can ride in one of yours someday. You can scare the heck out of me. Thanks for input
 
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