What to look for in a 70? (1 Viewer)

[prossett]

Hi guys - as a recent and happy LC-80 owner, I'm getting ready to hunt down a nice stock 70 SWB, probably early to mid-80s model.

I'm in the Middle East so I'm not sure how different specs are to yours, but when I start looking at 70s what should I look out for, what are the desirables, what should I stay away from?

If you could, a list of good things to look for and a list of don't wants would greatly help me narrow it down.

This is what the boyz here do with 70s!

(pics from Dubai4x4.com)

 

[roscoFJ73]

They didnt start making them in large quantities until 85 ,84 was only from november onwards I think.

I take it you will be doing a lot of sand driving and if the fuel is cheap the 3F works well in the sand. My old 3F could reach 80kph in very soft beach sand if I wanted.
I think parts for the 3F will be easier than any other landcruiser engine in your area.
The diesels in the 84-90 models will struggle and run hot in the soft sand.

My advice would be to get a 73 series which is about 10 inches longer than a 70 and has the FRP roof.
It drives smoother and the extra room allows you to fit a lot more gear in the back.
I think the FRP top is cooler in the hot sun also
The gearbox should change smoothly when warmed up although they are always a little heavy and rough on the change compared to cars.

I dont think rust is a big issue in Dubai but look around the wheel arches,windscreen and between the seam you can see when you open the doors.
Make sure it is unmodified with original manifolds,air filter and carby.
If the carb is dirty it maybe leaking or the engine maybe fuming. Fumes are returned to the engine via the air filter tube.It tends to leak through the carb seals to the outside.

They are tough vehicles,but heavy,and jumping them may crack suspension mountings so have a good look.
Look at the suspension shackles ,if they are near vertical the springs probably are not sagging.
If the shackles are nearer to 45 degrees then the springs are flattening out ,maybe from dune jumping

Oil leaks are common from the rear main seal and get worse over time.

The engine should start easy when cold with some choke and a small pump of the pedal.
Hot starts are best with the pedal flat to the floor.
Engines should run super smooth.If there is some clatter it may need a valve adjustment.
If there is oil seeping from the sideplates it may mean the crankcase has pressure from gas seeping past the piston rings.
The 3F is a big old fashioned engine based on a 50s chev design and doesnt like sustained driving over 3000 rpm.


Steering should be nice with no clunks or slop. One inch max play at the top of the steering wheel before it turns.
Give the front wheels a good shake from the top of tyre,there should be no movement.
Check behind the wheels ,the knuckles should be clean with no more than a greasy film.
Looks for signs the steering joints have been greased and that its not leaking out.
Check the steering box for leaks usually at the bottom.

Feel the output flange for up/down movement or oil leaks.
If possible remove the upper filler plug from the gearbox,if oil pours out its an indication of oil migration from t/case to gearbox even though its uphill
Check the drive shafts for regular greasing.

Brakes are never fantastic on this model but they should pull you up straight with no pedal drop.
My experience says that if the handbrake is good then the rear brakes are working and have some meat left on the shoes.

The coolant system should be clean with an overflow bottle attached. Look carefully underneath hoses where they join to metal parts. Any signs of leaks or corrosion means you can expect it to be worse inside.
Any signs of seepage around the water pump means new pump time.

Good luck with it and comE back and show us what you have bought. If poSsible get a 90 onwards model with the 1FZ FE

 

[prossett]

Thanks buddy - good stuff. Here's what I'll do: even though I'm half-a-world away here I'll keep you posted on what I find. Might give you guys some free entertainment Please note the prices cannot compare to anything stateside, it depends on local market conditions.

 

[David*BJ70]

Mmmmm. Look at that dune !!

I'm dream about cruising in that kind of place

 

[prossett]

Here's one that is quite representative of what's on offer:

1994 LC-70 SWB, 281km, asking $4500

Anything catch your eye?

 

[brownbear]

Ah I always want to tour UAE, I've been thru the airport in Dubai many times and have never took the time to get out and look around. But have been kicking myself since. I've probably been tru about 10 times.

My favorite thing to do there was buy the millionaire ticket. Costs about 300 USD but there was only 5000 tickets. SO I felt the odds were good..

Welcome to the board! Look forward to seeing your new truck when you find it.

 

[brownbear]

That one's had a fresh paint job.Look at the wheel wells, and also how they painted the rims with the tires on. The rear tire hase overspray.

The interior is shot, but the exterior is ok.

New carpet and recover the seats....good to go.

 

[Gold Boy]

welcome to mud - prossett

not much rust in UAE cruisers, but check for fiberglass filler none the less.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Here's one that is quite representative of what's on offer:

1994 LC-70 SWB, 281km, asking $4500

Anything catch your eye?

]

Yep ,its a 94 and a 3F. I thought OZ was the last country to have that engine combo.
Thats not a bad price by world standards.
Have a close inspection of that metal heater hose on the valve cover.Those things rust easy and are not cheap.
I see it has the gauge pod centre dash,is it for aux tanks or the inclinometer?

 

[prossett]

Thanks guys - the engine is the 3F, seems indestructible, but I feel a bit slow compared to the 1FZE... carburretted, and I like that, but any info on that engine?

It only ran for a couple of years, I think - in between the 2F, which was used for a long time with the FJ-40, and then the 3F seems to be an interim engine until they went with basically what they still run now... does that mean there's some issues with it or that parts may be hard to come by, or any other thoughts you may have on the 3F?

How hard would it be to swap out the 3F for a 1FZE? Does it by any chance bolt straight in with the 70 stock clutch, etc?

 

[roscoFJ73]

No there were no issues with the 3F,it was an improvement over the 2F and had a claimed 20hp more.
It went out because it could not be improved any more and its fuel consumption is as heavy as the newer 1FZFE but without the HP and it would not have passed newer emissions standards creeeping into many countries.
They downsized the stroke to free up the rpm a little and make it smoother.
Parts should be easy in any country where it was sold.
Swappinmg the 3F for the 1FZFE requires a gearbox change ,new frame mounts and maybe some electronics for the fule inj.
There are 3rd world carbed versions of the 1FZ which I think is what its called.
Stick with the 3F ,I think it will have enough power for weekend dune jumping.

 

[matt 105]

Gday
What to look for? - from an ex 40, 75 and 79srs owner and an 80 and 105srs owner........look for COILS!!!!!!!!
LOL
Matt

 

[prossett]

Coils and 1FZ engne would be fab, but then it would prolly be beyond my budget!

Turns out the one in the pics above has been rolled, hence the fresh paint. See in the pics how the right side (passenger side) is leaning?

So either the price drops or it stays on the lot.

Anybody cut the roof of a 70, turning it into a pick-up? If so, can you direct me to pics? If the frame is OK I don't particularly mind a lopsided roof... chop it off and add a good roll-bar.

 

[prossett]

OK, found another one - no over-paint, used to belong to the City Hall (so well used, but at least one would suppose regularly maintained and not trashed in the desert) with 282,000km on the clock, and clean inside. Will talk with the dealer tomorrow and take some pics.