What to buy: under 100K or under 150K?

[schlopecki]

Under 100K vs. 150K miles seem to make a big difference in price.
Do I risk a lot more with let's say 130K truck in comparison to 90K truck,
assuming, that based on base inspection, both run good?

 

[Riad]

Read the noob guide first. The differences can be day and night between the two.

 

[elmariachi]

I gather from your question that you could financially afford either, you are just asking which is the better deal/strategy. IMO, all other things (namely history and condition being equal), you should buy the truck with the lowest mileage, even if you pay more (within reason). You do increase your risk above 100K miles because of things that we have all proven wear out...starter contacts, cooling components, headgaskets. The farther you go over 100K, the more those things begin to press on you to address, solely at your expense.

Example: I would pay $14K for a 100K mile 1997 truck before I would pay $9K for a 150K mile 1997 truck. Its worth $5K more to me to have two years of mileage at my driving rate and 50K less mileage wear on a truck. Just my .02c.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Which ever has working lockers!

 

[schlopecki]

Read the noob guide first.

Thanks, I've read it before.

The differences can be day and night between the two.

Sure there can be and...

 

[schlopecki]

Which ever has working lockers!

Good one!

 

[schlopecki]

I gather from your question that you could financially afford either, you are just asking which is the better deal/strategy. IMO, all other things (namely history and condition being equal), you should buy the truck with the lowest mileage, even if you pay more (within reason). You do increase your risk above 100K miles because of things that we have all proven wear out...starter contacts, cooling components, headgaskets. The farther you go over 100K, the more those things begin to press on you to address, solely at your expense.

Example: I would pay $14K for a 100K mile 1997 truck before I would pay $9K for a 150K mile 1997 truck. Its worth $5K more to me to have two years of mileage at my driving rate and 50K less mileage wear on a truck. Just my .02c.

Thanks for your input.
Of course I would prefer the truck with lower mileage, but if I buy the 150K one
I could still have some money for mods. With 100K I would have to wait with bigger mods.
I guess I thought those "things to fix" come later than 150K.
In that case, I see your point.

I guess I have to buy on 100K one for $9K.
Seriously, I have to think about it...

 

[chriscruiser]

I would not discount some with high miles, the noob faq had a lot of good points so I would say follow those guidelines and inquire about the maintenance as well. To me that is key, a landcruiser which has been cared for is better than a low mileage cruiser that has not been maintained.

A friend of mine has an 02 Ford Explorer Sport which hasn't been maintained very well, his truck has 95,000 miles...my landcruiser with 170K both drives and looks 100 times nicer than his, as a matter of fact when I told a few people I was selling it they did not believe the year or that it had those miles.

Bottom line, have a mechanic look it over or get the maintenance info on the cruiser!

 

[drsales]

I purchased mine 95 with 167k. I have done numerous pm fixes. Total cost about $3k. Purchased for $7900 with lockers. Full maintenance records.
I felt best bang for the buck. Could have paid more but in the long run I feel I am ahead.

Good luck on your quest.

 

[locrwln1]

Also don't forget about the LX's, sometimes they were better taken care of and the maintenence history is easier to research, if they had the work done at a Lexus dealer.

Bottom line, if the 150k truck looks better, drives better and the maintenence was kept up. Whereas, the 100k truck was driven into the ground and looks like it, then the 150k would be the better buy. The same rules that you would use before buying any used car applies. Good luck.

Jack

 

[tarbe]

Most of the stuff that you are going to do to a 150k truck, you are also going to be doing real soon to a 100k truck. The 150k it is just maybe a little past due for some of it (but not dangerously so in most cases).

Miles are not nearly as important to me as how it was driven and maintained. I would take the well cared-for 150k truck for $9k over the well cared-for 100k truck for $14k any day. By the time you spend your $1,500 on parts, fluids, grease and shop towels, you will be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two. And you will be intimate with your cruiser...not to mention having $3,500 for mods!

The trick is to be patient waiting for that well cared for/relatively high mile vehicle, and being able to recognize it. If you doubt your own ability and don't have any help, it might be best to play it safe(r) and go with the lower mileage truck.

Did I just play both sides of that question???

 

[SLC-Joe]

If it has under 100k you can go to a dealer and get a 3/36000 warranty for about $1500. My brother got this warranty on his about 2 years ago and has had about $4000 in work done covered by the warranty

 

[elmariachi]

I would take the well cared-for 150k truck for $9k over the well cared-for 100k truck for $14k any day. By the time you spend your $1,500 on parts, fluids, grease and shop towels, you will be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two.

Maybe visually you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference. But internally is where it counts. After all all your PM is done, the rings, rod bearings, cams, driveline gears, transmission components, so on and so forth will have 50,000 more miles on them. That is worth $5000 to me any day.

 

[schlopecki]

Thanks guys!
I keep reading and thinking.


I know about LX450 and that Lexus keeps service records - I keep that in mind.
Especially if the truck had only 1 or 2 owners, it may have been with welthy people maintaing it at Lexus...


I can eye-ball a truck (I've been working on my 4Runner for past 5 years),
but who would you guys use for more in-depth inspection?
Toyota/Lexus, chain shops like Midas, Meineke, Gemini,...?

 

[johnny4ever]

I cannot decide either

Im looking at a 93 FJ80 with 97k, a 97 FZJ80 with 56k and now I have added the 100 series just to confuse myself to the point of never actually buying the damned thing.

I found a 98 with 93k miles for $16.5k and an 02 with 80k miles for $22k.

I may just buy an FJ Cruiser and Drive to MOAB.....................

Any ideas?

John D

 

[schlopecki]

Im looking at a 93 FJ80 with 97k, a 97 FZJ80 with 56k and now I have added the 100 series just to confuse myself to the point of never actually buying the damned thing.

I found a 98 with 93k miles for $16.5k and an 02 with 80k miles for $22k.

I may just buy an FJ Cruiser and Drive to MOAB.....................

Any ideas?

John D

From my point of view:
- UZJ100 and FJ Cruiser - IFS
- FJ80 - no ABS, no airbags, no full floating axles

I've wheeled 4Runner for past few years and now I know what I want...
... to some extent anyway
1995-97, double-locked LC80/LX450 (preferably LX) and the milage is under debate now...

 

[MH_Stevens]

You know I will probably get death threats for saying this, but no matter how much I love my '97, because of the increasing mileage on all the cruisers out there, if I were to buy again now I would go with an 75-85K mile 100 series.

There I've said - never thought I would but I did-so deal with it. Death threats only after supper please.

 

[schlopecki]

You know I will probably get death threats for saying this, but no matter how much I love my '97, because of the increasing mileage on all the cruisers out there, if I were to buy again now I would go with an 75-85K mile 100 series.

There I've said - never thought I would but I did-so deal with it. Death threats only after supper please.

Why 100 over 80?

 

[tarbe]

Maybe visually you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference. But internally is where it counts. After all all your PM is done, the rings, rod bearings, cams, driveline gears, transmission components, so on and so forth will have 50,000 more miles on them. That is worth $5000 to me any day.

I think we all pretty much agree that the internals are good for at least 300k given decent care. 50k miles is equivalent to 17% of the life of the internals.

$5000/.17 = $29,412. Does a 1FZFE rebuild, pinion bearings and u-joints approach $30k

 

[Hltoppr]

...or you could just buy a well cared for 200K model and just go to Mexico, with some $$ left over for cold tecates and margaritas...

-H-