Those are Dick Cepek, Fun County II, Kevlar reinfoced radials - good for floating on the snow / ice.
Size is difficult to tell, but I think they are 38's
Oh the tires on that 90 are not Fun Country II, sorry I didn't mention that earlier they are just the Radial FC, which is what only comes in sizes up to 37"
The Kevlar fun country's do come in sizes all the way up to 44", which is usally what is seen used.
for 10" to 12" rocks, you can easily get by with 33" (285/75 R16) tires and a set of OME springs. Based on the weight of the batteries, you'll want the set that'll accomodate the heavier loads.
for 10" to 12" rocks, you can easily get by with 33" (285/75 R16) tires and a set of OME springs. Based on the weight of the batteries, you'll want the set that'll accomodate the heavier loads.
I´ve just checked the handbook, and as standard, the tyres are 275/70/16, but don´t look anything like 33" high. So if these are stock will the 285/75/16 be much bigger?
I´ve just checked the handbook, and as standard, the tyres are 275/70/16, but don´t look anything like 33" high. So if these are stock will the 285/75/16 be much bigger?
Be aware that you are basically getting this advice from one person and not from the majority of the guys on this forum. If you'll read prior threads on this subject (e.g. what it takes to run 35's) you will find the advice is more consistent with Christo's write-up as posted by Firetruck.
That's not to say you have to do everything that is listed to run 35's effectively. There are short-cuts like lowering bump stops to limit upward shock compression. Christo's kit is what most would consider as "doing it right."
Scarred said:
I´ve just checked the handbook, and as standard, the tyres are 275/70/16, but don´t look anything like 33" high. So if these are stock will the 285/75/16 be much bigger?
Stock tyres are basically 31". 285/75's are basically 33". You will notice approximately 6% difference on the speedo, odo, and somewhat less pep. The difference is more noticeable at higher altitudes.
Be aware that you are basically getting this advice from one person and not from the majority of the guys on this forum. If you'll read prior threads on this subject (e.g. what it takes to run 35's) you will find the advice is more consistent with Christo's write-up as posted by Firetruck.
That's not to say you have to do everything that is listed to run 35's effectively. There are short-cuts like lowering bump stops to limit upward shock compression. Christo's kit is what most would consider as "doing it right."
I used to email back and forth with this dude from Iceland . His name is Baldvin , and here is the album with pics of his 80 ... also includes pics of it being build up in the shop . Think of it as a pictorial guide if you go in this direction ; in a broad sense . I'm not going to dig out the other guys pics , which I believe are also on this site , for you .. because finding them will be half the fun . The other fellas 80 is a green one , and his albums are VERY extensive in terms of outlining the buildup . You'll get a good feel for what it takes to relocate your rear axle , and bits , as well as the body lift etc .
Nope .. no English . I used to post to their boards once in a great while .. and I'd have to rely on the guys that spoke English . Other times I would run everything thru a translator , but they told me that approach sucked big time .. so I quit trying to translate .
It's all eye candy ! Myndaalbúm means image directory basically .. so when you see that in a menu , click on it for some cool pics ...
Click on this pic for Iceman's 80 ( I dug him up for you lazy sods .. )
I'm shocked dude. 
