what should the piston top surface look like when seen through the plug hole? (2 Viewers)

[e9999]

started to change the plugs on the beast.
[Kinda of a pain, really, what with removing the intake hose, covers, etc...
Not to mention making sure you don't leave the plug socket down in there not be seen ever again...]

Anyway, when I looked though the plug holes with a light, I saw some brownish deposits on the top surface of the piston. Looks dry and very thin. Mostly clean metal under the hole but a few brownish deposits here and there.

That reasonably normal? What should it look like? I don't imagine anybody has shiny clean pistons at 75K, right?

(FWIW, the plug central isolators were typically a light tan, outside electrode mostly light tan, center electrode bit more blackish. Does not look wet or oily, no fluffy deposits.)

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

Sounds good, now put in some fresh pluggies and run the piss out of it!

 

[OGBeno]

Yeah--just get new plugs (OEM) and throw them in.

In terms of keeping the socket attached, Bailey had a good idea--simple, clean, perfect: just duck tape the socket to the extension and you will be fine...I did it again today after adding anti-seize to the threads and dielectric to the wires, cap.

If those are your original plugs, I'd just toss'em and get new ones--small price to pay for peace of mind...

best.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[e9999]

tried a couple of things. Ran a fishing line through the socket but that broke. Then I put some tape on the male extension that goes into the socket. That seemed to do it. I thought about putting some loctite or making some dimples but doesn't look that necessary. So far so good.

Plugs look OK. No idea if original or not.

Antiseize eh? That a good idea? Are you still using the FSM torque?



So, about these pistons?

 

[OGBeno]

Yeah...check out this thread near the bottom and you will see the anti-seize idea is a good one. I put my plugs in and then took them back out to put that stuff on them..I wanted to do it right. Yeah, FSM torque is good (or as bailey said, nice and snug ).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=39079

Now, about the pistons...well, I'll have to defer to someone with more knowledge and expertise.

Best.
-o-

 

[elmariachi]

Anyway, when I looked though the plug holes with a light, I saw some brownish deposits on the top surface of the piston. Looks dry and very thin. Mostly clean metal under the hole but a few brownish deposits here and there.

That's what it should look like. If there was black soot or oil on your plugs you'd likely see it on the piston. And FWIW, I finally JB welded a cheap plug socket to a cheap Taiwan extension to create my own SST-JR.

Jim

 

[Heffenoche]

I use a Craftman extension that locks to the socket. Always worked for me and don't think I paid much for it but that was 12 years ago.

 

[e9999]

what I finally ended up doing for the socket is I put 2 layers of duct tape on the end of the extension and pounded that in the socket with a rubber mallet. It didn't want to go in, but I persuaded it! Now, it sure ain't coming off with the socket staying on the plug. Problem solved!
(Well, at least until I have to use the extension for something else... )

And btw, I think having this rigid affair (including the plug stuck in a rubber grommet inside the socket) is much better than the hose tirck to thread the plug in. You can make sure the plug is well aligned much more readily.



So my pistons are good then eh?

 

[Josh83]

What I did about the spark plug socket staying in there thing is I took the rubber piece out of one of my spark plug sockets. I use a rubber one to start the plug and then use the other to tighten it down.

 

[lacruiser]

antiseize compound

about antiseize: great stuff, will certainly prevent the plugs from welding themselves to your head.

Just make sure you apply it only to the threads. don't allow any to get onto the center insulator or on the porcelain "tower" on the outside, as it's got either copper or aluminum in it and will cause the plug to short to ground.

Also, someone suggested using dielectric grease. Excellent stuff, use it on the outside porcelain area, this will make wire removal a breeze next time.

Don't over-tighten the plugs!

Dana

 

[e9999]

I took 10% off the specs (18 insteady of 20 Nm IIRC) cuz of the antiseize...

That was just a guess but makes me feel better!

 

[turbocruiser]

I use a Craftman extension that locks to the socket. Always worked for me and don't think I paid much for it but that was 12 years ago.

Yes, I was trying to figure out all these tricks that people were using to keep the socket on the extension and I guess I never realized that extensions and sockets could fit so loosely! What brands of tools are these? I use two types of extensions - the Craftsman regular and the Craftsman locking - either one is strong enough to stick together for plug changes. Sometimes over time the regular ones do loose some grip but the locking ones never seem to lose any grip at all. The locking ones are identified by a small black sliding lever right at the tip of the extension those things wont work off no matter what. I know there are alota arguments about the best tools out there and I know there are tools better than basic Craftsman but for me its hard to beat a tool that consistently works well and that I can abuse, return, and return again if i need to. Plus its the little things like the fact that I have never even thought of the hassle of my sockets dropping off. Anyway hope that helps, unless you want to weld two things together and make your own SST, why not just get the six inch craftsman and perhaps a matching socket?

Ohh, I forgot, I looked at the top of the pistons last time I replaced the plugs, damn if there wasn't the clear image of one big beautiful boobie on each and every one!!!! I think I'm gonna see what the pics of those will fetch on ebay. Then again I seem to see that image hidden within everything I see, hmm, wonder what Dr. Rorshak would say about that!!!