What should be expected when purchasing 100 series without a well-documented service history?

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T

Tummler

10 Year
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Certain issues have been well trodden here and don't necessarily need to be rehashed, such as AHC, timing belts and water pumps, and yet other issues should be obvious, such as the possible need to replace belts and hoses.

Assuming a 100 series presents well during a long, extensive test drive, what should someone expect from a 100 series without a well-documented service history that they could, or more likely would, avoid with a 100 series with no service record.
 
Without a service history, your only assessment will be the test drive. Use the Slee guide in the forum FAQs for a good set of things to look for when evaluating a 100. Add to that the assessment of any specific features important to you. Factor in miles, location, price, and you're good to go on expectations. Bunches on recent threads on the last 3 things.
 
My main concern is the AHC on equipped models, if common failures have been fixed already, and if timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc have been replaced. And I inspect the windshield, body, and underbody for issues.
 
I bought a 2003 w virtually no service history. It had just had most major service done including TB, brakes, shocks and WP. Because it had zero rust, was local, and an 03 w zero nav (what I wanted) I pulled the trigger. I baselined it after purchase and am doing some more PM. Suggest you follow the Slee guide if you want more peace of mind.
Make sure it drives well and check for oil leaks.
Plenty of material and support on this forum if your run into issues.
Oh, and a used 4.7 motor is easy to find for cheap...
 
If it presents well during the test drive, that is more important maintenance history. Any used car I buy would be base lined anyways regardless of t belt water pump being previously changed unless they have paperwork showing all the idler pulley cam seals crank seals have been changed WITH OEM parts. Things I check for during the test drive would show the component's condition.
A tranny that has been flushed regularly but beat on won't shift smoothly, yet a tyranny that is in good condition regardless of flushes will shift smoothly. A drive shaft that is worn will clunk when shifting into drive, a drive shaft in good condition regardless of being lubed will not etc etc.
Lack if history would be a bargaining chip to lower the sale price as long as it presents well during test drive.

Good luck on your hunt.
 
If you do a thorough inspection and have a little mechanical ability, you should be able to access the vehicle yourself. If it's been maintained it will look so. If it was owned by an abuser it will be fairly obvious.
Like the rest of us using a dealer for maintenance is a costly endeavor and many do it themselves or use an independent shop.
You can tell if it's always been kept clean or if it was cleaned just to impress a buyer.

Just use good judgment and read the procedure Slee offers. Be ready to walk if it doesn't feel right.

Remember, "rust never gets better".
 
Tummler said:
Certain issues have been well trodden here and don't necessarily need to be rehashed, such as AHC, timing belts and water pumps, and yet other issues should be obvious, such as the possible need to replace belts and hoses.

Assuming a 100 series presents well during a long, extensive test drive, what should someone expect from a 100 series without a well-documented service history that they could, or more likely would, avoid with a 100 series with no service record.
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These 100's are tanks, but even tanks need servicing. I look at under maintained as a challenge, it just parts and they are all replaceable.

Do your home work, starting with VIN. All Dealer work will be accessible, but may take a few calls.

Second, ask what and where work has been done, then verify.

Third, on inspection make sure engine has not been started for 12 hours. Then first look in radiator, then air box, and then start and listen closely note RPM through to normal operating temp. Bring something to lay on under the rig. Inspect for rust, leaks and damage. A very big clue to if it's been halfway maintained, is the propeller shaft yokes and spider joint. Are the dry, that's a bad sign. Or has grimy grease built up from being thrown off the lube points on to underside, if so it a good sign. Dry would mean the rig was not properly maintain. Dry propeller shaft & spiders joint (AKA drive shaft & U-joints) may need replacing. Possible a fully set of wheel & axle bearings & bushing as well, hopefully not the spindle. Assume anything not verified has never been done. If transmission, and gear boxes drive and sound good I not worry to much. If you do your own work it's just parts. If you have work done, buy one that has perfect records or has been baseline, it will be cheaper in the long run.

Forth, If not a experience buyer/inspector, at this point cut a deal based on third party inspection. Even the best will not find it all, extra eye are worth a few hundred.

The exception in my mind is if it's a no rust, NO NAV, no accident, good lines and cosmetically 7 or better out of 10. Just pay cash and drive off. ...LOL

Thunder90 said:
I bought a 2003 w virtually no service history. It had just had most major service done including TB, brakes, shocks and WP. Because it had zero rust, was local, and an 03 w zero nav (what I wanted) I pulled the trigger. I baselined it after purchase and am doing some more PM. Suggest you follow the Slee guide if you want more peace of mind.
Make sure it drives well and check for oil leaks.
Plenty of material and support on this forum if your run into issues.
Oh, and a used 4.7 motor is easy to find for cheap...
Click to expand...
By Zero NAV? I assume you mean NO NAV. Nice find.
 
Last edited:
2001LC said:
These 100's are tanks, but even tanks need servicing. I look at under maintained as a challenge, it just parts and they are all replaceable.

Do your home work, starting with VIN. All Dealer work will be accessible, but may take a few calls.

Second, ask what a where work has been done, then verify.

Third, on inspection make sure engine has not been started for 12 hours. Then first look in radiator, then air box, and then start and listen closely note RPM through to normal operating temp. Bring something to lay on under the rig. Inspect for rust, leaks and damage. A very big clue to if it's been halfway maintained, is the propeller shaft yokes and spider joint. Are the dry, that's a bad sign. Or has grimy grease built up from being thrown off the lube points on to underside, if so it a good sign. Dry would mean the rig was not properly maintain. Dry propeller shaft & spiders joint (AKA drive shaft & U-joints) may need replacing. Possible a fully set of wheel & axle bearings & bushing as well, hopefully not the spindle. Assume anything not verified has never been done. If transmission, and gear boxes drive and sound good I not worry to much. If you do your own work it's just parts. If you have work done, buy one that has perfect records or has been baseline, it will be cheaper in the long run.

Forth, If not a experience buyer/inspector, at this point cut a deal based on third party inspection. Even the best will not find it all, extra eye are worth a few hundred.

The exception in my mind is if it's a no rust, NO NAV, no accident, good lines and cosmetically 7 or better out of 10. Just pay cash and drive off. ...LOL

By Zero NAV? I assume you mean NO NAV. Nice find.
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Yes, no nav. 03 updates and No nav were my preference. Thanks.
 
Thunder90 said:
Yes, no nav. 03 updates and No nav were my preference. Thanks.
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I was told here in mud, those are near impossible to find "unicorn". I've been looking and not seen one 03+ listed yet. Just bought a 01 LX NO NAV. Most LX had NAV in 00-02 from what I understand, but starting in 03+ none in USA (except Hawaii). Was I told correctly on this?
 
It is also my understanding that 03+ LC w/o nav are rare. I consider myself lucky to have found this one locally. Congrats on your LX! Personally, I have a pro clip and Grom BT3 for my iphone6 and use waze. Couldn't be happier. Keeps dash and center stack clean.
 
Thunder90 said:
It is also my understanding that 03+ LC w/o nav are rare. I consider myself lucky to have found this one locally. Congrats on your LX! Personally, I have a pro clip and Grom BT3 for my iphone6 and use waze. Couldn't be happier. Keeps dash and center stack clean.
Click to expand...

Hold on a second. You found a mythical 03+ without Nav, and you are still using the factor the deck + Grom for bluetooth connectivity?
 
Tummler said:
Hold on a second. You found a mythical 03+ without Nav, and you are still using the factor the deck + Grom for bluetooth connectivity?
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The PO added the Grom and it's honestly been fine as I get to know the beast and take care of PM. That said, What are your recommendations?
 
Baseline it.

Do every schedule maintenance item recommended by Toyota from 0 up to your millage at minimum. Including full flushing of transmission & power steering. I like Mobil One full synthetic for all grease, gear lubes, ATF & oil, just because it easy to fine and remember. Use Toyota red and demineralized water in coolant or premix Red. Use leather cleaner & conditioner, and dry shampoo carpet.

Then put in a locked vault, because if it's a factory no NAV it's unicorn....;)
 
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