what it takes to add a turbo (1 Viewer)

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I'm currently travelling and have an opportunity to buy a factory turbo. I think all it is is thr turbo and my question is-what else do I need? From the little I've found I gather I need an exhast manifold setup for a turbo, but i'm not sure if I have to have a computer unit to control it or not, or anything else I need. If anyone could help out i'd greatly appriciate it. Thank you
 
In my opinion, its not worth it for the added 10 or so hp of the stock CT20 turbo.

Differences between the 22RE and the 22RTE are more than just the manifolds. You'd need the injectors, the ECU, the manifolds, the AFM, the intake and exhaust piping, and then to do it right, you'd need the pistons and a way to tap into the oil galleys to feed the turbo.

The CT20 is junk. Don't do it. There are better turbos to use.

In the end though, its gonna be a lot of $$$ that could have been spent on an engine swap for a bigger/more hp/torque engine.
 
I will put it quite simple to you ..

You will need the way provide your engine enough fuel to keep decent AFR when boosting .. and sure it depends how much boost are you planning ..


Edit: then you need to pic the right turbo for your application and rpm range ( the range your engine it happy to produce more powa )
 
Plus the 22RTE had reinforced internals to deal with the boost, stock non-intercooled setup, and the occasional moron with a heavy right foot. Turbo for a gasser is pretty lame, the engine has no "go" until nearly into third, IMO superchargers are a better alternative for a gas motor, and I think LC engineering offers a kit.
 
I'm currently travelling and have an opportunity to buy a factory turbo. I think all it is is thr turbo and my question is-what else do I need? From the little I've found I gather I need an exhast manifold setup for a turbo, but i'm not sure if I have to have a computer unit to control it or not, or anything else I need. If anyone could help out i'd greatly appriciate it. Thank you

I just picked up a turbo motor.
I also have a 22re sitting right next to it.
there are alot of differences in the blocks. oil feeds and cooling feeds. the injectors are different.
 
Factory turbo trucks had lower compression ratios--around 8.5-1, which will have to be handled either through a different spec'd head (as the factory did) or by newly milled pistons. Also, turbo trucks had larger fuel injectors (295cc as compared to the RE"s 200cc) and pretty sure larger Mass Air Flow flapper boxes. Not entirely sure, but I am certain the computer was programmed differently to account for larger fuel and air consumption. You have already addressed the manifold, good job on finding one. I would recommend going with a different-than-factory turbo, however; the CT20's were pretty crappy. Go with a Garrett T3/T4 hybrid or something similar; they will make you much happier in the long run. Good luck on your project! :)
 
In my opinion, its not worth it for the added 10 or so hp of the stock CT20 turbo.

Differences between the 22RE and the 22RTE are more than just the manifolds. You'd need the injectors, the ECU, the manifolds, the AFM, the intake and exhaust piping, and then to do it right, you'd need the pistons and a way to tap into the oil galleys to feed the turbo.

The CT20 is junk. Don't do it. There are better turbos to use.

In the end though, its gonna be a lot of $$$ that could have been spent on an engine swap for a bigger/more hp/torque engine.


Agree with the whole post....

and...

"As time rolled by, Turbo Engineering Center (TEC). Of Magalia, California found that the life expectancy of the CT-20 was in the neighborhood of 60,000 miles. When it comes time to replace or repair these units, Toyota only offers a replacement turbo for $1850-no service or repairs. TEC traced the CT-20's short life span to the routing of the oil supply line. The line ran directly under the turbine housing and was joined to it. This allowed a great deal of heat transfer and TEC believes oil was ultimately restricted which led to turbo failure. Another shortcoming of the Toyota turbo was the backpressure it produced. TEC tested a CT-20 and found at 9 psi there was 22 psi of backpressure and high exhaust gas temperatures. The conditions were ripe for failure."
 
For the money, you might wanna think about going with higher compression pistons.

IIRC, they work 100%, out of the box with factory EFI and injectors...

No lag. No special parts and expensive Turbo's. No special injectors, wiring harnesses and computers.

All you need is to run high octane fuel the rest of its life.


...something you'd have to do with the Turd-blow anyway...
 

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